Quoc Dat Pham

Chemical penetration enhancers in stratum corneum - Relation between molecular effects and barrier function.

Skin is attractive for drug therapy because it offers an easily accessible route without first-pass metabolism. Transdermal drug delivery is also associated with high patient compliance and through the site of application, the drug delivery can be locally directed. However, to succeed with transdermal drug delivery it is often required to overcome the low permeability of the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). One common strategy is to employ so-called penetration enhancers that supposedly act to increase the drug passage across SC. Still, there is a lack of understanding of the molecular effects of so-called penetration enhancers on the skin barrier membrane, the SC. In this study, we provide a molecular characterization of how different classes of compounds, suggested as penetration enhancers, influence lipid and protein components in SC. The compounds investigated include monoterpenes, fatty acids, osmolytes, surfactant, and Azone. We employ natural abundance (13)C polarization transfer solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) on intact porcine SC. With this method it is possible to detect small changes in the mobility of the minor fluid lipid and protein SC components, and simultaneously obtain information on the major fraction of solid SC components. The balance between fluid and solid components in the SC is essential to determine macroscopic material properties of the SC, including barrier and mechanical properties. We study SC at different hydration levels corresponding to SC in ambient air and under occlusion. The NMR studies are complemented with diffusion cell experiments that provide quantitative data on skin permeability when treated with different compounds. By correlating the effects on SC molecular components and SC barrier function, we aim at deepened understanding of diffusional transport in SC, and how this can be controlled, which can be utilized for optimal design of transdermal drug delivery formulations.

Stratum corneum molecular mobility in the presence of natural moisturizers

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is a lipid-protein membrane that experiences considerable osmotic stress from a dry and cold climate. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) comprises small and polar substances, which like osmolytes can protect living systems from osmotic stress. NMF is commonly claimed to increase the water content in the SC and thereby protect the skin from dryness. In this work we challenge this proposed mechanism, and explore the influence of NMF on the lipid and protein components in the SC. We employ natural-abundance (13)C solid-state NMR methods to investigate how the SC molecular components are influenced by urea, glycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), and urocanic acid (UCA), all of which are naturally present in the SC as NMF compounds. Experiments are performed with intact SC, isolated corneocytes and model lipids. The combination of NMR experiments provides molecularly resolved qualitative information on the dynamics of different SC lipid and protein components. We obtain completely novel molecular information on the interaction of these NMF compounds with the SC lipids and proteins. We show that urea and glycerol, which are also common ingredients in skin care products, increase the molecular mobility of both SC lipids and proteins at moderate relative humidity where the SC components are considerably more rigid in the absence of these compounds. This effect cannot be attributed to increased SC water content. PCA has no detectable effect on SC molecular mobility under the conditions investigated. It is finally shown that the more apolar compound, UCA, specifically influences the mobility of the SC lipid regions. The present results show that the NMF components act to retain the fluidity of the SC molecular components under dehydrating conditions in such a way that the SC properties remain largely unchanged as compared to more hydrated SC. These findings provide a new molecular insight into how small polar molecules in NMF and skin care products act to protect the human skin from drying.

Tracking solvents in the skin through atomically resolved measurements of molecular mobility in intact stratum corneum

Significance Our skin is regularly exposed to solvents in cosmetics, washing and sanitary agents, and drug formulations. The uptake of solvents into the skin may change essential properties of the skin, for example, its protective barrier function, as well as its flexibility and softness. Herein different solvents relevant to skin formulations and sanitary products were added to samples of intact stratum corneum (SC), which is the outer layer of the skin. The solvent molecules can be tracked inside SC, showing reduced mobility. Furthermore, the solvents induce fluidity in SC components. These changes depend on solvent identity and concentration and on SC hydration conditions. Changes in SC components can be related to changes in macroscopic properties of SC, including skin barrier function. Solvents are commonly used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and sanitary products and cleansers. The uptake of solvent into the skin may change the molecular organization of skin lipids and proteins, which may in turn alter the protective skin barrier function. We herein examine the molecular effects of 10 different solvents on the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum (SC), using polarization transfer solid-state NMR on natural abundance 13C in intact SC. With this approach it is possible to characterize the molecular dynamics of solvent molecules when present inside intact SC and to simultaneously monitor the effects caused by the added solvent on SC lipids and protein components. All solvents investigated cause an increased fluidity of SC lipids, with the most prominent effects shown for the apolar hydrocarbon solvents and 2-propanol. However, no solvent other than water shows the ability to fluidize amino acids in the keratin filaments. The solvent molecules themselves show reduced molecular mobility when incorporated in the SC matrix. Changes in the molecular properties of the SC, and in particular alternation in the balance between solid and fluid SC components, may have significant influences on the macroscopic SC barrier properties as well as mechanical properties of the skin. Deepened understanding of molecular effects of foreign compounds in SC fluidity can therefore have strong impact on the development of skin products in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and sanitary applications.

Controlling water evaporation through self-assembly

Significance Water evaporation from aqueous solutions of amphiphilic molecules is shown to be independent of the evaporation driving force, which is the air relative humidity. This reproduces the behavior observed for mammals’ skin outer layer. An homeostatic mechanism achieves the control of water evaporation in systems that adapt their structure to their water content. The response to a change in relative humidity operates through a change in thickness of the self-assembled phase in contact with the air, and thus a change in permeability to water in this layer. This external layer shields the rest of the system from humidity variations and sets the hydration below this shield. Water evaporation concerns all land-living organisms, as ambient air is dryer than their corresponding equilibrium humidity. Contrarily to plants, mammals are covered with a skin that not only hinders evaporation but also maintains its rate at a nearly constant value, independently of air humidity. Here, we show that simple amphiphiles/water systems reproduce this behavior, which suggests a common underlying mechanism originating from responding self-assembly structures. The composition and structure gradients arising from the evaporation process were characterized using optical microscopy, infrared microscopy, and small-angle X-ray scattering. We observed a thin and dry outer phase that responds to changes in air humidity by increasing its thickness as the air becomes dryer, which decreases its permeability to water, thus counterbalancing the increase in the evaporation driving force. This thin and dry outer phase therefore shields the systems from humidity variations. Such a feedback loop achieves a homeostatic regulation of water evaporation.

Cyclic and linear monoterpenes in phospholipid membranes: Phase behavior, bilayer structure, and molecular dynamics.

Monoterpenes are abundant in essential oils extracted from plants. These relatively small and hydrophobic molecules have shown important biological functions, including antimicrobial activity and membrane penetration enhancement. The interaction between the monoterpenes and lipid bilayers is considered important to the understanding of the biological functions of monoterpenes. In this study, we investigated the effect of cyclic and linear monoterpenes on the structure and dynamics of lipids in model membranes. We have studied the ternary system 1,2-dimyristoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine-monoterpene-water as a model with a focus on dehydrated conditions. By combining complementary techniques, including differential scanning calorimetry, solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance, and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering, bilayer structure, phase transitions, and lipid molecular dynamics were investigated at different water contents. Monoterpenes cause pronounced melting point depression and phase segregation in lipid bilayers, and the extent of these effects depends on the hydration conditions. The addition of a small amount of thymol to the fluid bilayer (volume fraction of 0.03 in the bilayer) leads to an increased order in the acyl chain close to the bilayer interface. The findings are discussed in relation to biological systems and lipid formulations.

The effects of polar excipients transcutol and dexpanthenol on molecular mobility, permeability, and electrical impedance of the skin barrier

In the development of transdermal and topical products it is important to understand how formulation ingredients interact with the molecular components of the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), and thereby influence its macroscopic barrier properties. The aim here was to investigate the effect of two commonly used excipients, transcutol and dexpanthenol, on the molecular as well as the macroscopic properties of the skin membrane. Polarization transfer solid-state NMR methods were combined with steady-state flux and impedance spectroscopy measurements to investigate how these common excipients influence the molecular components of SC and its barrier function at strictly controlled hydration conditions in vitro with excised porcine skin. The NMR results provide completely new molecular insight into how transcutol and dexpanthenol affect specific molecular segments of both SC lipids and proteins. The presence of transcutol or dexpanthenol in the formulation at fixed water activity results in increased effective skin permeability of the model drug metronidazole. Finally, impedance spectroscopy data show clear changes of the effective skin capacitance after treatment with transcutol or dexpanthenol. Based on the complementary data, we are able to draw direct links between effects on the molecular properties and on the macroscopic barrier function of the skin barrier under treatment with formulations containing transcutol or dexpanthenol.

Kinetic influence of siliceous reactions on structure formation of mesoporous silica formed via the co-structure directing agent route

We investigate the mechanism responsible for the formation of mesoporous silica formed with the so-called costructure directing agent (CSDA) route. The synthesis relies on the interaction between silica source (tetraethylorthosilicate), cationic surfactant (C18H37N+(CH3)2(CH2)3N+(CH3)3Br2), and CSDA (carboxyethylsilanetriol), which results in a material functionalized with carboxylic groups. Depending on the concentration of HCl in the synthesis, the structure is defined by Fm3m (at high pH) and by Fd3m (at low pH), with a gradual transition in the intermediate pH range. Here, we aim at finding the origin for the structural change triggered by pH and investigate the effects of the hydrolysis of the silica source on the overall kinetics of the synthesis. A fast process results in Fm3m, regardless of pH, and a slow process results in Fd3m. The hydrolysis step is the important structural control parameter. We studied the cross-linking of silica and CSDA using 29Si NMR. The cross-linking is similar for th...

Effects of Urea and TMAO on Lipid Self-Assembly under Osmotic Stress Conditions

Most land-living organisms regularly experience dehydration. In nature, one commonly applied strategy to protect against this osmotic stress is to introduce small polar molecules with low vapor pressure, commonly called osmolytes. Two examples of naturally occurring small polar compounds are urea and trimethylamine N-oxide (TMAO), which are known to have counteracting effects on protein stability. In this work, we investigate the effects of urea and TMAO on lipid self-assembly at varying water contents, focusing on dehydrated conditions. By using complementary experimental techniques, including sorption microcalorimetry, NMR, and X-ray scattering, together with molecular dynamics simulations in model systems composed of phosphatidylcholine lipids, water, and solute, we characterize interactions and self-assembly over a large range of hydration conditions. It is shown that urea and TMAO show qualitatively similar effects on lipid self-assembly at high water contents, whereas they have clearly different effects in dehydrated conditions. The latter can be explained by differences in the molecular interactions between the solutes and the lipid headgroups. TMAO is repelled from the bilayer interface, and it is thereby expelled from lipid lamellar systems with low water contents and narrow inter-bilayer regions. In these conditions, TMAO shows no effect on the lipid phase behavior. Urea, on the other hand, shows a slight affinity for the lipid headgroup layer, and it is present in the lipid lamellar system at all water contents. As a result, urea may exchange with water in dry conditions and thereby prevent dehydration-induced phase transitions. In nature, urea and TMAO are sometimes found together in the same organisms and it is possible that their combined effect is to both protect lipid membranes against dehydration and still avoid denaturation of proteins.

Skin hydration : Interplay between molecular dynamics, structure and water uptake in the stratum corneum

Hydration is a key aspect of the skin that influences its physical and mechanical properties. Here, we investigate the interplay between molecular and macroscopic properties of the outer skin layer – the stratum corneum (SC) and how this varies with hydration. It is shown that hydration leads to changes in the molecular arrangement of the peptides in the keratin filaments as well as dynamics of C-H bond reorientation of amino acids in the protruding terminals of keratin protein within the SC. The changes in molecular structure and dynamics occur at a threshold hydration corresponding to ca. 85% relative humidity (RH). The abrupt changes in SC molecular properties coincide with changes in SC macroscopic swelling properties as well as mechanical properties in the SC. The flexible terminals at the solid keratin filaments can be compared to flexible polymer brushes in colloidal systems, creating long-range repulsion and extensive swelling in water. We further show that the addition of urea to the SC at reduced RH leads to similar molecular and macroscopic responses as the increase in RH for SC without urea. The findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how intermediate filament organization responds to changes in the surrounding environment.