Raoul Vyumvuhore

Raman spectroscopy: in vivo quick response code of skin physiological status.

Abstract. Dermatologists need to combine different clinically relevant characteristics for a better understanding of skin health. These characteristics are usually measured by different techniques, and some of them are highly time consuming. Therefore, a predicting model based on Raman spectroscopy and partial least square (PLS) regression was developed as a rapid multiparametric method. The Raman spectra collected from the five uppermost micrometers of 11 healthy volunteers were fitted to different skin characteristics measured by independent appropriate methods (transepidermal water loss, hydration, pH, relative amount of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol). For each parameter, the obtained PLS model presented correlation coefficients higher than R2=0.9. This model enables us to obtain all the aforementioned parameters directly from the unique Raman signature. In addition to that, in-depth Raman analyses down to 20 μm showed different balances between partially bound water and unbound water with depth. In parallel, the increase of depth was followed by an unfolding process of the proteins. The combinations of all these information led to a multiparametric investigation, which better characterizes the skin status. Raman signal can thus be used as a quick response code (QR code). This could help dermatologic diagnosis of physiological variations and presents a possible extension to pathological characterization.

Atopic skin: In vivo Raman identification of global molecular signature, a comparative study with healthy skin

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common skin inflammatory disease, affecting up to 3% of adults and 20% of children. Skin barrier impairment is thought to be the primary factor in this disease. Currently, there is no method proposed to monitor non‐invasively the different molecular disorders involved in the upper layer of AD skin. Raman microspectroscopy has proved to be a powerful tool to characterize some AD molecular descriptors such as lipid content, global hydration level, filaggrin and its derivatives. Our investigations aimed to extend the use of in vivo Raman microspectroscopy as a rapid and non‐invasive diagnostic technique for lipid conformation and organization, protein secondary structure and bound water content analysis in atopic skin. Our approach was based on the analysis of Raman data collected on the stratum corneum (SC) of 11 healthy and 10 mild‐to‐moderate atopic patients. Atopic skin revealed a modification of lipid organization and conformation in addition to the decrease of the lipid‐to‐protein ratio. This study also highlighted a reduction of the bound water and an increase in protein organized secondary structure in atopic skin. All these descriptors worsen the barrier function, state and appearance of the skin in AD. This precise and relevant information will allow an in vivo follow‐up of the pathology and a better evaluation of the pharmacological activity of therapeutic molecules for the treatment of AD.

Measurement of the biomechanical function and structure of ex vivo drying skin using raman spectral analysis and its modulation with emollient mixtures

An important aspect of the biomechanical behaviour of the stratum corneum (SC) is the drying stresses that develop with water loss. These stresses act as a driving force for damage in the form of chapping and cracking. Betasitosterol is a plant sterol with a structure similar to cholesterol, a key component in the intercellular lipids of the outermost layer of human skin, the SC. Cholesterol plays an important role in stabilizing the SC lipid structure, and altered levels of cholesterol have been linked with SC barrier abnormalities. Betasitosterol is currently applied topically to skin for treatment of wounds and burns. However, it is unknown what effect betasitosterol has on the biomechanical barrier function of skin. Here, by analysing the drying stress profile of SC generated during a kinetics of dehydration, we show that betasitosterol, in combination with two emollient molecules, isocetyl stearoyl stearate (ISS) and glyceryl tri‐2‐ethylhexanoate (GTEH), causes a significant modulation of the drying stress behaviour of the SC by reducing both the maximal peak stress height and average plateau of the drying stress profile. Raman spectra analyses demonstrate that the combination of betasitosterol with the two emollients, ISS and GTEH, allows a high water retention capacity within the SC, while the lipid conformational order by increasing the amount of trans conformers. Our study highlights the advantage of combining a biomechanical approach together with Raman spectroscopy in engineering a suitable combination of molecules for alleviating dryness and dry skin damage.

Lipid organization in xerosis: The key of the problem?

Although xerosis is a common skin disorder among the population, there is no in vivo global study focusing on xerotic skin. Hence, the objective of this study was to characterize xerotic skin from the surface to the molecular scale with in vivo and non‐invasive approaches.

STOP: a Spectroscopic Tip Optical Probe for skin complexion characterization

We define a Spectroscopic Tip Optical Probe (STOP) to quantify skin optical properties in order to differentiate dull from bright tone of panelists. We show its capacity to probe the diffusive medium in depth.