Richard J. Seymour

Storm wave induced mortality of giant kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera, in Southern California

orbital velocities (associated with large, high frequency waves), the presence of breaking waves, and entanglement by drifters were found to increase mortality through stipe breakage or holdfast failure. Longshore variability in wave intensity was found to affect kelp mortality rates. The data suggest that wave breaking may be an important factor in determining the inner boundary of the kelp bed.

Nearshore sediment transport

1. The Nsts Field Experiment Sites.- A. Torrey Pines Experiment.- B. Santa Barbara Experiment.- C. Rudee Inlet Experiment.- 2. Measuring The Incident Wave Field.- A. Torrey Pines Experiment.- B. Santa Barbara and Rudee Inlet Experiments.- 3. Measuring the Nearshore Morphology.- A. Methods for Position Control and Beach Face Profiling.- B. Offshore Surveys.- 4. Measuring Surf Zone Dynamics.- A. General Measurements.- B. Field Measurements of Rip Currents.- C. Measurement Errors for Electromagnetic Current Meters.- 5. Measuring Sediment Dynamics.- A. Discrete Sampling of Bedload and Suspended Load.- B. Continuous Bedload Sampling.- C. Continuous Suspended Load Sampler.- 6. Transport Determination by Tracers.- A. Tracer Theory.- B. Application of Tracer Theory to NSTS Experiments.- 7. Data Recording.- A. NSTS Data System.- B. Wave Network System.- 8. Wind Wave Transformation.- 9. Run-Up and Surf Beat.- 10. Nearshore Circulation.- A. Conservation Equations for Unsteady Flow.- B. Rip Currents and Wave Groups.- 11. Suspended Sediment Measurements.- A. Continuous Measurements of Suspended Sediment.- B. Discrete Measurements of Suspended Sediment.- 12. Cross-Shore Transport.- 13. Measuring Longshore Transport with Tracers.- 14. Measuring Longshore Transport with Traps.- 15. Models for Surf Zone Dynamics.- 16. State of the Art in Oscillatory Sediment Transport Models.- 17. Modeling Cross-Shore Transport.- Indexes.- A. Author Index.- B. Subject Index.

A Comparison of Directional Buoy and Fixed Platform Measurements Of Pacific Swell

Abstract The performance of the Datawell Directional Waverider and the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) 3-m discus buoy, widely used to measure the directional properties of surface gravity waves, are evaluated through comparisons to an array of six pressure transducers mounted 14 m below the sea surface on a platform in 200-m depth. Each buoy was deployed for several months within a few kilometers of the platform. The accuracy of the platform ground-truth array was verified by close agreement of wavenumber estimates with the theoretical linear dispersion relation for surface gravity waves. Buoy and array estimates of wave energy and directional parameters, based on integration of the directional moments across the frequency band of energetic swell (0.06–0.14 Hz), are compared for a wide range of wave conditions. Wave energy and mean propagation direction estimates from both buoys agree well with the platform results. However, the Datawell buoy provides significantly better estimates of directional spread...

INFLUENCE OF EL NINOS ON CALIFORNIA'S WAVE CLIMATE

This report will update the coastal zone practitioner on the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) as it affects the implementation of manmade changes along the coastline. It is our intent to place in proper perspective this fast-changing and often difficult to interpret national program. Readers will achieve an overall understanding of the NFIP on the coast, and will be in a position to apply the programs requirements in their efforts. We will begin with a history of the application of the NFIP to the coastal zone. The history of the problems encountered will lead into current regulations, methodologies, and the changes the Federal Emergency Management Agency plans for the future.The spatial variability of the nearshore wave field is examined in terms of the coherence functions found between five closely spaced wave gages moored off the North Carolina coast in 17 meters depth. Coherence was found to rapidly decrease as the separation distance increased, particularly in the along-crest direction. This effect is expressed as nondimensional coherence contours which can be used to provide an estimate of the wave coherence expected between two spatial positions.Prediction of depositional patterns in estuaries is one of the primary concerns to coastal engineers planning major hydraulic works. For a well-mixed estuary where suspended load is the dominant transport mode, we propose to use the divergence of the distribution of the net suspended load to predict the depositional patterns. The method is applied to Hangzhou Bay, and the results agree well qualitatively with measured results while quantitatively they are also of the right order of magnitude.

Longshore Transport Determined by an Efficient Trap

The cost of many coastal projects is often increased by the expensive beach repair and maintenance required to remedy the destabilising effects of structures on the adjoining coastline. Physical and/or mathematical models have been developed for use in planning these projects in order to predict and quantify the effects of marine sediment transport on the coastal topography. Such models need to be calibrated against prototype data and one method of gauging volumetric sediment movement is by successive bathymetric/ topographic profiting surveys which are performed seasonally and annually. Since large quantities of sediment are related to small changes in bed elevation it is clear that this profiling needs to be done with the utmost precision* The areas most affected extend from the beach through the surf zone to water depths of about 25 metres. The surf zone in particular is a dynamic and hostile area which falls outside the traditional activities of both the hydrographic and land surveyors. Consequently innovative methods, deficient in sound survey principle and practice, have often been pursued in this area without any attempt being made to assess the tolerance on the data. This paper attempts to show that it is possible to produce reliable and verifiable results to the required accuracy by using conventional survey equipment and techniques, also by taking the necessary precautions against the many possible sources of survey error. The procedures and techniques described have evolved from NRIOs involvement over the past decade in major projects at Richards Bay, Durban, Koeberg and in False Bay. The results of a recent verification investigation are fully reported in this paper.Besides wave impact forces, erosion of the inner side of a sea dike is a serious cause of destruction. Therefore, wave run-up and overtopping effects have to be considered with respect to the safety of a dike. Strong relations were found between both these influences (TAUTENHAIN et.al., 1980, 1981, 1982), based on experiments in a wave flume and using an energy conservation concept. However, under natural conditions, an oblique wave approach has to be considered. This paper deals with the influence of wave direction on wave runup on a smooth dike slope in order to provide a basis for calculating the overtopping rates for both regular and irregular waves.This paper describes a study carried out at Port Taranaki, New Plymouth, New Zealand to determine ships track and motions at the port entrance. The results of the study being used to establish the extent (plan area) and optimum depth of proposed capital dredging works. The time lapse photographic technique, incorporating reference levels and bearings in each frame, used to record vessels entering and leaving the port is described, Maximum increases in ships draft due to sea conditions are given.N.S.L. program is a finite-difference code for two dimensionnal flows with a free surface in a vertical plane. Basic equations are Navier-Stokes Equations with a simple simulation of turbulent effects by an eddy viscosity coefficient related to the mixing length and the mean velocity gradient. Theses equations are solved in a variable domain in time. The main features of the numerical method are presented. Some comparisons with theoretical solutions give a good validation of the code both in linear and non linear cases. Other examples of application are given.The design of the coal unloading terminal in an unprotected environment created the need to develop design criteria as well as operational and structural systems that will respond toproblems arising from unloading bulk in the open sea. As there was no known precedent of an unprotected unloading terminal, the criteria was based on experience in existing offshore loadina terminals, laboratory tests and engineering judgement.A large number of man-made tidal swimming pools (two examples are shown in Figure 1) exist along the South African coast. They are usually situated on rocky outcrops in the close vicinity of popular sandy bathing beaches to provide protected bathing conditions in these areas mainly for children and elderly people. Some tidal pools, especially along rocky coast, provide the only safe bathing facilities. Besides affording protection against waves and surfzone currents the pools provide protection from sharks. A large number of tidal pools were built during the early 1950s along the Natal South Coast after the occurrence of a relatively large number of shark attacks on bathers on that coast. The semi-diurnal tide with a range of about 1,5 m along the South African coast makes it possible for pools to be built such that water replenishment can occur during every high-water (approximately every 12 hours) during both neap and spring tide periods. Presently, there exists a great need for more tidal pools as part of the demand for more recreational facilities along the South African coast. However, no information on design criteria could be found in the literature.The objective of this research is to study the prediction method of hurricane waves around this island, especially in the Taiwan Strait. The paper describes the prediction of hurricane waves used by Bretchneiders (1976) Method and finds out the predicted waves are different from measured waves, therefore the Bretchneider predicted model is modified by the authors and then the modified model is applied to predict waves again. It is found out that predicted waves match well with the measured waves. The results of the modified Bretchneider model are compared with those of the Ijima tracing method and find out the former is better than the latter. The second part is to apply the modified model to predict the extreme value of wave heights and compute the worse hurricane wave condition of the surrounding sea area around island, within recent score year (1959-1978). The calculated sites are Chu-Wei, Nan-Liaw, Ta-Shih, Cheng-Kung, Pu-Tai, Tung-Kang, Nan-Wan as shown in Fig.1 and Shiau Liu- Chieu totally 8 stations. Then use the Gumbel Distribution TYPE 1 to predict the extreme wave height of each returned period.In the design and construction of waterfront bulkhead systems, it is essential to consider the coastal effects of tides, waves, boat wakes, currents, bottom sediment movement and bottom scour. Many improperly designed bulkhead systems experience severe loss of backfill and toe materials with the bulkhead eventually failing if it is not corrected in time. Inadequate drainage, joint connections, and/or inadequate toe protection are typically the causes of failure. This paper describes an investigation of a bulkhead system supporting a large waterfront development in southern California which was experiencing widespread sinkhole development in the bulkheads backfill and was on the verge of losing toe material. The objective of this investigation was to determine the extent and cause of ongoing subsurface erosion, to evaluate its effect on the bulkhead stability, and to recommend and design mitigative measures. The cause of the erosion was determined to be piping of fine grained soils due to inadequate backfill drainage. A remedial drainage scheme was designed and field-tested, and several structural repair schemes were suggested for portions of the bulkhead where accumulated damage affected the integrity of the structure.

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.

A compact representation of ocean wave directionality

Abstract The spectrum of the longshore component of shoreward directed momentum flux ( S xy ) due to ocean waves, taken with the energy spectrum for the same wave field, is shown to provide a compact and useful representation of ocean wave directionality. Records of orthogonal surface slope components are demonstrated to yield an unbiased estimate of S xy . One method for estimation of S xy using this relationship is investigated. Error analysis provides means for optimal selection of measurement parameters. Experimental verification is provided from laboratory tests and from field comparison with a five-element linear array.

Evidence for Changes to the Northeast Pacific Wave Climate

Abstract A large database of deep water wave buoy measurements over a 24-year period is created for four regions comprising the West Coast of the United States. The regional monthly mean significant wave height (MMSWH) is selected as the defining wave climate parameter and averaging multiple data sources within a region is found to significantly reduce data gaps. Two 12-year periods are compared, showing significant temporal variability but high correlation between regions, allowing the further collapse of the data to a northern and a southern region. Correlations between MMSWH records with three global-scale climate indices are investigated and only the North Pacific Index (NPI), a measure of atmospheric pressure in the Gulf of Alaska, shows strong correlation. The Multivariate ENSO Index (MEI) is less correlated and the Pacific Decadal Index (PDO), which is a measure of ocean surface temperature, provides no significant correlation. A method for displaying multiple correlations is developed that shows the mean of all MMSWH records that occur at unique temporal combinations of two climate indices. The graphics depicting the mean wave height as a function of NPI and MEI for the two 12-year periods are shown to be very instructive in establishing why the two periods are so different. On the contrary, the same procedure with PDO substituted for MEI produces uniform distributions with little interpretive value. Century-scale variation in the climate indices is investigated, and significant linear trends are found for NPI and MEI, both consistent with causing increases in mean wave energy in these regions. Causal relationships for the observed correlations are discussed, and conclusions are reached indicating that global warming is a likely contributor to observed increases in wave intensity in the North Pacific.

Neashore auto-suspending turbidity flows

Abstract A class of turbidity flows is investigated in which sediment is entrained sufficient to balance losses and an equilibrium flow is sustained. The analytical models for predicting equilibrium flow configurations are surveyed. These are found to differ by two orders of magnitude in the required flow speeds. Five field observations of self-sustaining turbidity flows are investigated as a test for the analytical models. The model of Bagnold (1962) is found to have skill in predicting all of the field observations. The significance of these flows to the reliability of pipelines, cables and other engineering structures on continental shelves is considered. Circumstantial evidence is presented that suggests that these flows may be a mechanism for offshore flows of sand from beaches during major storms.

The effect of seawater exposure on mode I interlaminar fracture and crack growth in graphite/epoxy

The effects of seawater exposure on the mechanics of Mode I fracture and crack growth in unidirectional AS-4/3501 graphite/epoxy were investigated utilizing the previously developed compliant load-frame (CLF) technique. Mode I double-cantilever- beam (DCB) specimens were exposed to fresh flowing seawater under both static and fa tigue loading conditions. Long-term fatigue loading in air resulted in extensive bridging of reinforcing fibers across the crack tip, increasing the apparent fracture resistance of the material. The primary effect of seawater was to weaken the fiber-to-matrix bond in the composite, causing an increase in the number of bridged fibers. Fiber bridging increased the fracture resistance of the DCB test specimens and reduced the rate of crack growth to near zero. An increase in the fracture resistance of specimens soaked in seawater but not loaded was also attributed to a weakened fiber-to-matrix bond. The compliant load-frame (CLF) technique was found to be a simple and cost-effective method for studying the mechanics of crack growth under environmental exposure conditions. However, linear- elastic fracture mechanics (LEFM) relationships derived previously for the CLF become invalid when the fracture resistance of the material increases during crack growth, e.g., during fiber bridging.