Sherry J. Haar

Identification and validity of accelerometer cut-points for toddlers.

The purpose of this study was to derive ActiGraph cut‐points for sedentary (SED), light‐intensity physical activity (LPA), and moderate‐to‐vigorous physical activity (MVPA) in toddlers and evaluate their validity in an independent sample. The predictive validity of established preschool cut‐points were also evaluated and compared. Twenty‐two toddlers (mean age = 2.1 years ± 0.4 years) wore an ActiGraph accelerometer during a videotaped 20‐min play period. Videos were subsequently coded for physical activity (PA) intensity using the modified Childrens Activity Rating Scale (CARS). Receiver operating characteristic (ROC) curve analyses were conducted to determine cut‐points. Predictive validity was assessed in an independent sample of 18 toddlers (mean age = 2.3 ± 0.4 years). From the ROC curve analyses, the 15‐s count ranges corresponding to SED, LPA, and MVPA were 0–48, 49–418, and >418 counts/15 s, respectively. Classification accuracy was fair for the SED threshold (ROC‐AUC = 0.74, 95% confidence interval = 0.71–0.76) and excellent for MVPA threshold (ROC‐AUC = 0.90, 95% confidence interval = 0.88–0.92). In the cross‐validation sample, the toddler cut‐point and established preschool cut‐points significantly overestimated time spent in SED and underestimated time in spent in LPA. For MVPA, mean differences between observed and predicted values for the toddler and Pate cut‐points were not significantly different from zero. In summary, the ActiGraph accelerometer can provide useful group‐level estimates of MVPA in toddlers. The results support the use of the Pate cut‐point of 420 counts/15 s for MVPA.

Comparison of Aluminum Mordants on the Colorfastness of Natural Dyes on Cotton

Two mordanting agents, aluminum potassium sulfate and aluminum acetate, in three concentrations (5%, 10%, and 20% owf) were evaluated for colorfastness to laundering and light of natural dye extracts (madder, weld, and coreopsis) on cotton print cloth. The type of aluminum mordant had a greater influence on colorfastness to laundering, whereas dye type had a greater influence on fastness to light. Aluminum acetate at 5% owf concentration gave slightly higher Gray Scale ratings for colorfastness to laundering of coreopsis and weld. All treatments had negligible to no staining on cotton. Weld had slightly better colorfastness to light ratings than the other dye types with 20% aluminum potassium sulfate rating highest. Even though the aluminum acetate mordant improved the colorfastness to laundering on weld and coreopsis at the 5% and 10% owf concentrations, it did not improve fastness to light and resulted in slightly lower fastness to light grades on coreopsis.

Black walnut, Osage orange and eastern redcedar sawmill waste as natural dyes: effect of aluminum mordant on color parameters

The triple bottom line can be impacted in both positive and negative ways by the use of tree sawmill waste as a natural dye. Trees contain a biomordant in the form of tannin which may eliminate the need for metallic mordants, thus reducing water, thermal energy, residual waste, and exposure to a mordant chemical. Dyeing with mill waste provides an economic option for an existing timber manufacturing byproduct. This research analyzed the impact of potassium aluminum sulfate (PAS) on dye concentration, hue, and colorfastness to light and laundering for three regional dyewoods (black walnut, Osage orange, and eastern redcedar) on wool yarn. Dye concentrations were pre-tested to find a standard depth of shade between mordanted and nonmordanted yarns. Tests for colorfastness to light and laundering were performed according to AATCC methods. Resulting colors for exposed and unexposed specimens were rated using CIE L*a*b* values and descriptive statistics were used to examine directional relationship within independent variables mordant and exposure (light and laundering). Two-sample t test was performed to investigate the effect of a PAS mordant versus no mordant on overall color difference between specimens exposed to light and laundering. Findings indicated that dye absorption was improved with the use of a PAS mordant. For yarns premordanted with PAS the dyewood colors became warmer. A PAS mordant slightly improved colorfastness to light for black walnut and eastern redcedar, but did not influence Osage orange which had a color change from bright yellow to warm brown after exposure to light. Colorfastness to laundering improved only for Osage orange with a PAS mordant.

Toddler activity intensity during indoor free-play: stand and watch.

OBJECTIVE Movement patterns among toddlers (16-36 months) differ from other early developmental periods; toddlers practice coordination, balance, and control. Toddler care environments may afford repetition of these emerging skills. This study examined intensity and type of movements during free-play indoors in child care among toddlers. METHODS A convenience sample (n, 41; mean, 26.5 months) was observed for intensity of physical activity (PA), motor activity type, activity context, and teacher prompts in center-based care using a modified version of the Observational System for Recording Physical Activity for Children-Preschool. RESULTS The most frequent PA intensity level was sedentary with limb movement. No significant gender differences emerged. Standing, sitting/squatting, and walking were the most frequent activity types. Dominant activity contexts included fine motor manipulative, self-care, and onlooking. Logistic regression results indicated that onlooking significantly decreased the odds of moderate to vigorous PA. Teachers offered few prompts to increase PA. CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS Toddlers demonstrate predominantly sedentary behaviors during free-play. Further observational research across the entire day is warranted to accurately assess intensity and teachers support for moderate to vigorous PA.

Wearable Art through Free-Motion Stitching

Wearable art forms provide a canvas for the artistic application of materials and thread through free-motion stitching. The aesthetic effects range from a simple meandering line to complex layers of color, line, shape, and texture. The conventional sewing machine is used with the feed dogs disengaged, allowing the designer to control the movement of fabric and resulting stitches. The purpose of this paper is to describe the process of creating wearable art using methods of free-motion stitching.

Nelly Don's 1916 pink gingham apron frock: An illustration of the middle-class American housewife's shifting role from producer to consumer

Nelly Don created a stylish, practical, affordable pink gingham housedress in 1916, quickly selling out her first order of 216 dresses at Peck’s Dry Goods Company in Kansas City. This study investigated the reasons behind the success of her dress, and found that during the early 20th century, women’s roles shifted from that of producer to consumer, and that clothing was a visible reflection of this shift. Specific design attributes and social appeal contributed to the success of the housedress. Integrating trendy design elements into an affordable housedress along with the growing demand for a stylish, yet practical housedress induced by consumption culture in the early 20th century facilitated the success of Nelly Don’s pink gingham housedress. As such, Nelly Don’s 1916 housedress reflected social and cultural change in this transitional period, and exemplified the shifting role of the middle-class American housewife by offering an alternative to the traditional Mother Hubbard housedress as well as a lifestyle free of long hours spent sewing.

Design of a Garment for Data Collection of Toddler Language and Physical Activity

Design process phases of development, evaluation and implementation were used to create a garment to simultaneously collect reliable data of speech production and intensity of movement of toddlers (18-36 months). A series of prototypes were developed and evaluated that housed accelerometer-based motion sensors and a digital transmitter with microphone. The approved test garment was a top constructed from loop-faced fabric with interior pockets to house devices. Extended side panels allowed for sizing. In total, 56 toddlers (28 male; 28 female; 16-36 months of age) participated in the study providing pilot and baseline data. The test garment was effective in collecting data as evaluated for accuracy and reliability using ANOVA for accelerometer data, transcription of video for type of movement, and number and length of utterances for speech production. The data collection garment has been implemented in various studies across disciplines.

Studio practices for shaping and heat-setting synthetic fabrics

Heat-setting of synthetic fabrics is an industrial stabilisation process that has been adapted by designers to create dimensional textures through shaped-resists and non-industrial heat-setting methods. The article overviews heat-setting properties, physical resist techniques, and presents an experiment to determine best practices for heat-setting physically resisted polyester fabric. Two polyester fabrics, organza and lining, were gathered and secured to a wooden dowel and heat-set under four heating conditions: steaming in a pressure cooker, boiling in a pot of water, dry heat in a conventional oven and radiation waves in a microwave oven. Pre- and post-treatment lengths were analysed using GLM for two-way ANOVA and post hoc tests. Based on results from the statistical analysis and visual evaluation, steaming in a pressure cooker is recommended for sheer fabrics such as organza and dry heat from a conventional oven for lining weight fabrics.

Excellence in Design Faces

Faces, an art-to-wear skirt and knitted top, was created from multiple techniques of surface design, including sealing and painting fabric, free-motion stitching, dyeing, and knitting. Inspired by the emotions women show, and at times hide, the skirt imagery depicts faces emerging from abstract swirls of color created through paint and thread. Novelty yarn in a violet and aqua color scheme was used for the knitted top and guided the paint and thread color selections. This article presents the inspiration, process, and techniques used to create Faces.