Simon M Fryer

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Abstract The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers’ characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to a numeric scale suitable for statistical analysis. Our paper presents details of recommended standards of reporting that should be used for reporting climber characteristics and provides a universal scale for the conversion of climbing grades to a number system for statistical analysis.

Oxygen Recovery Kinetics in the Forearm Flexors of Multiple Ability Groups of Rock Climbers

Abstract Fryer, SM, Stoner, L, Dickson, TG, Draper, SB, McCluskey, MJ, Hughes, JD, How, SC, and Draper, N. Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 29(6): 1633–1639, 2015—The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Abstract This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, Pu2009<u2009.05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, Pu2009<u2009.05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, Pu2009<u2009.05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

Effects of different aerobic exercise programmes with nutritional intervention in sedentary adults with overweight/obesity and hypertension: EXERDIET-HTA study:

Background Both exercise training and diet are recommended to prevent and control hypertension and overweight/obesity. Purpose The purpose of this study was to determine the effectiveness of different 16-week aerobic exercise programmes with hypocaloric diet on blood pressure, body composition, cardiorespiratory fitness and pharmacological treatment. Methods Overweight/obese, sedentary participants (nu2009=u2009175, aged 54.0u2009±u20098.2 years) with hypertension were randomly assigned into an attention control group (physical activity recommendations) or one of three supervised exercise groups (2 days/week: high-volume with 45u2009minutes of moderate-intensity continuous training (MICT), high-volume and high-intensity interval training (HIIT), alternating high and moderate intensities, and low-volume HIIT (20u2009minutes)). All variables were assessed pre- and post-intervention. All participants received the same hypocaloric diet. Results Following the intervention, there was a significant reduction in blood pressure and body mass in all groups with no between-group differences for blood pressure. However, body mass was significantly less reduced in the attention control group compared with all exercise groups (attention control –6.6%, high-volume MICT –8.3%, high-volume HIIT –9.7%, low-volume HIIT –6.9%). HIIT groups had significantly higher cardiorespiratory fitness than high-volume MICT, but there were no significant between-HIIT differences (attention control 16.4%, high-volume MICT 23.6%, high-volume HIIT 36.7%, low-volume HIIT 30.5%). Medication was removed in 7.6% and reduced in 37.7% of the participants. Conclusions The combination of hypocaloric diet with supervised aerobic exercise 2 days/week offers an optimal non-pharmacological tool in the management of blood pressure, cardiorespiratory fitness and body composition in overweight/obese and sedentary individuals with hypertension. High-volume HIIT seems to be better for reducing body mass compared with low-volume HIIT. The exercise-induced improvement in cardiorespiratory fitness is intensity dependent with low-volume HIIT as a time-efficient method in this population. ClinicalTrials.gov Registration: NCT02283047.

The use of shear rate–diameter dose–response curves as an alternative to the flow-mediated dilation test

The brachial artery flow-mediated dilation test (FMD) is the non-invasive gold-standard used to test endothelial function. Reduced FMD precedes the development of atherosclerosis and provides an early marker for predicting future cardiovascular disease events. Although, this test is of high potential, it is somewhat limited by poor reproducibility. By utilizing hand warming and grip exercise combined with hierarchical linear modeling, shear rate-diameter dose-response curves may provide a novel and more accurate way to assess endothelial function in humans. Shear rate-diameter dose-response curves could potentially improve upon the traditional FMD measurement and serve as a superior clinical and research tool for assessing cardiovascular disease risk in a variety of populations. The current paper presents testable hypotheses and methodology for assessing the validity and reliability of an alternative to the current FMD test.

Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance.

Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity.PurposeThe aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6xa0months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities.MethodsUsing near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3–5xa0min of ischemia.ResultsLinear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95xa0% CI 0.35–0.94, Adj R2xa0=xa00.53).ConclusionsConsidering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance.

Reliability of Pulse Waveform Separation Analysis Responses to an Orthostatic Challenge

Cardiovascular autonomic nervous system function can be assessed using an orthostatic challenge to induce arterial wave reflection. While arterial reflection is typically estimated using a central augmentation index, a superior estimation can be obtained using pulse wave separation analysis to estimate the aortic backward pressure wave (Pb). However, to be of value in a clinical or research setting, an assessment tool must be precise (reliable). Therefore, this study sought to determine the measurement precision of Pb responses to a modified tilt-table test. Twenty healthy adults (26.4 year (SD 5.2), 24.7u2009kg/m2 (SD 3.8), 55% female) were tested in a fasted state on three different mornings separated by a maximum of seven days. Pressure waveforms were recorded on the left arm, and aortic waveforms were generated using a generalized transfer function. Subsequently, a physiologic flow waveform was assumed to separate the aortic pressure wave into its forward and timing-independent backward (Pb) components. The criterion intra-class correlation coefficient of ≥0.75 was exceeded at baseline (0.79), following a 5-min tilt (0.75), and following a 5-min recovery from tilt (0.75). The standard error of measurement was 7%. These findings indicate that in a healthy cohort, the Pb response to an orthostatic challenge can be assessed with acceptable precision. The next step is to determine the sensitivity (validity) of this technique in identifying cardiovascular autonomic dysfunction in patient groups.

The validity and reliability of continuous-wave near-infrared spectroscopy for the assessment of leg blood volume during an orthostatic challenge.

UNLABELLEDnNear-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) can potentially be used to assess the cardiovascular autonomic system by monitoring orthostatic challenge-induced shifts in lower limb blood volume. However, in order to be of clinical utility the test must be valid, reliable, and relatively simple to conduct.nnnPURPOSEnTo induce lower limb blood volume shifts using a 10xa0min 70° head-up tilt, and: (1) in the soleus, determine the validity of an inexpensive continuous wave (cw)-NIRS device by comparing to a criterion frequency-domain (fd-) NIRS device, (2) determine the between-day reliability of soleus assessments obtained from cw-NIRS and fd-NIRS; and, (3) compare the between-day reliability for fd-NIRS assessments obtained at the soleus (standard) and gastrocnemius (simpler alternative).nnnMETHODSnFifteen non-smoking healthy adults were tested on 3 different mornings, under standardized conditions, separated by a maximum of 7 days. Total haemoglobin concentration (tHb) was continuously monitored bi-laterally in the medial soleus using cw-NIRS and fd-NIRS. For site comparison, tHb was measured in the medial gastrocnemius using fd-NIRS.nnnRESULTSn(1) The area under the curve (AUC) for cw-NIRS and fd-NIRS assessments at the soleus were not significantly different (pxa0=xa00.619). (2) The criterion (0.75) intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) was exceeded for both cw-NIRS and fd-NIRS. (3) The criterion ICC was exceeded for both soleus and gastrocnemius assessments.nnnCONCLUSIONnContinuous-wave NIRS can be used to monitor orthostatic stress-induced shifts in lower leg blood volume with acceptable validity and reliability. This orthostatic test may present a relatively simple and inexpensive approach for assessing the cardiovascular autonomic nervous system.

Midwives understanding of physical activity guidelines during pregnancy

OBJECTIVEnto examine the current level of understanding held by midwives regarding the NICE physical activity guidelines in the UK, and to investigate the physical activity guidance given to women during pregnancy.nnnDESIGNnan 11 question online survey comprising of a mixture of closed and open ended questions.nnnSETTINGndata reflects participants sampled across the United Kingdom.nnnPARTICIPANTSnfifty-nine midwives completed the online survey MEASUREMENTS AND FINDINGS: an electronic survey was used to explore the midwives understanding of physical activity guidelines during pregnancy, and the advice they offered to women in their care. Qualitative content analysis was used to gain a more in-depth understanding of midwife knowledge. Two per cent of midwives correctly identified the physical activity guidelines, with 44% giving partially correct responses, 25% giving incorrect responses and 29% unsure of what the guidelines are. Despite the low level of correct responses, 59% of respondents reported they were confident or very confident in answering questions regarding physical activity. Only 4% of respondents reported having access to continual professional development (CPD) in the area of PA guidance.nnnKEY CONCLUSIONSnthere appears to be a misplaced confidence amongst midwives in their knowledge of the NICE PA guidelines for pregnancy.nnnIMPLICATIONS FOR PRACTICEnas physical inactivity can be detrimental for the health of both mother and baby, there is a clear need for better dissemination of the current and future NICE physical activity guidelines in primary health care settings. The current study determined a substantial lack of CPD in the area of PA guidance, which may be a contributing factor to the lack of knowledge of the guidelines. As such, increasing CPD may in turn improve the accuracy of the advice given to pregnant women and consequently benefit the health of both mother and baby.

Reliability of oscillometric central blood pressure responses to lower limb resistance exercise

BACKGROUND AND AIMSnAlthough it is well known that resistance training (RT) is beneficial for patients suffering from a variety of cardiovascular diseases, it remains underutilized as a rehabilitation tool as there is no reliable way to monitor the additional stress placed on the central organs. The current study aimed to determine between-day reliability of central haemodynamic indices using oscillometric pulse wave analysis (PWA) during progressive sub-maximal RT.nnnMETHODSnNineteen healthy young males were tested on 3 different mornings in a fasted state. Central hemodynamic variables including augmentation index (AIx), AIx normalized to a heart rate of 75 beats per minute (AIx@75), central systolic blood pressure (cSBP), forwards (Pf) and backwards (Pb) wave reflection were determined at rest, as well as during leg extension RT at 10, 15 and 20% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC), and following 1xa0min and 5xa0min passive recovery.nnnRESULTSnDuring RT at 10, 15 and 20% MVC, the intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) values for AIx@75 (0.76-0.9), cSBP (0.74-0.78), Pf (0.75-0.82) and Pb (0.75-0.83) exceeded the criteria (0.75) for excellent reliability. During the 5xa0min recovery, the ICC values for AIx@75 (0.87-0.87), cSBP (0.69-0.7), Pf (0.63-0.67) and Pb (0.63-0.66) indicated good to excellent reliability.nnnCONCLUSIONSnClinically meaningful changes in central hemodynamic indices can be obtained during resistance training using oscillometric PWA devices. This technology holds potential for advancing resistance training prescription guidelines for patients with overt cardiovascular diseases.