Sofia Åberg

Wave intensities and slopes in Lagrangian seas

In many applications, such as remote sensing or wave slamming on ships and offshore structures, it is important to have a good model for wave slope. Today, most models are based on the assumption that the sea surface is well described by a Gaussian random field. However, since the Gaussian model does not capture several important features of real ocean waves, e.g. the asymmetry of crests and troughs, it may lead to unconservative safety estimates. An alternative is to use a stochastic Lagrangian wave model. Few studies have been carried out on the Lagrangian model; in particular, very little is known about its probabilistic properties. Therefore, in this paper we derive expressions for the level-crossing intensity of the Lagrangian sea surface, which has the interpretation of wave intensity, as well as the distribution of the wave slope at an arbitrary crossing. These results are then compared to the corresponding intensity and distribution of slope for the Gaussian model.

First Order Stochastic Lagrange Model for Asymmetric Ocean Waves

The Gaussian linear wave model, which has been successfully used in ocean engineering for more than half a century, is well understood, and there exist both exact theory and efficient numerical algorithms for calculation of the statistical distribution of wave characteristics. It is well suited for moderate seastates and deep water conditions. One drawback, however, is its lack of realism under extreme or shallow water conditions, in particular, its symmetry. It produces waves, which are stochastically symmetric, both in the vertical and in the horizontal direction. From that point of view, the Lagrangian wave model, which describes the horizontal and vertical movements of individual water particles, is more realistic. Its stochastic properties are much less known and have not been studied until quite recently. This paper presents a version of the first order stochastic Lagrange model that is able to generate irregular waves with both crest-trough and front-back asymmetries.