Stefan F. Haag

Influence of dietary carotenoids on radical scavenging capacity of the skin and skin lipids

Nutrition rich in carotenoids is well known to prevent cell damage, premature skin aging, and skin cancer. Cutaneous carotenoids can be enriched in the skin by nutrition and topically applied antioxidants have shown an increase in radical protection after VIS/NIR irradiation. In this paper, it was investigated whether orally administered carotenoids increase the radical scavenging activity and the radical protection of the skin using in vivo electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy and the skin lipid profile was investigated applying HPTLC on skin lipid extracts. Furthermore, in vivo Raman resonance spectroscopy was used to measure the cutaneous carotenoid concentration. A double blind placebo controlled clinical study was performed with 24 healthy volunteers, who have shown a slow but significant and effective increase in cutaneous carotenoids in the verum group. The enhancement in carotenoids increases the radical scavenging activity of the skin and provides a significant protection against stress induced radical formation. Furthermore, the skin lipids in the verum group increased compared to the placebo group but only significantly for ceramide [NS]. These results indicate that a supplementation with dietary products containing carotenoids in physiological concentrations can protect the skin against reactive oxygen species and could avoid premature skin aging and other radical associated skin diseases.

In vivo photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effect of hyperforin is associated with high antioxidant activity in vitro and ex vivo.

Hyperforin, a major constituent of St. Johns Wort (Hypericum perforatum, HP), provides anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, and anti-bacterial properties. Previous studies have shown anti-oxidative properties of St. Johns Wort extracts; however, its free radical scavenging activity in skin cells or skin has not been assessed in detail so far. Therefore, the free radical scavenging activity of hyperforin was tested in the H(2)DCFDA-assay in vitro in HaCaT keratinocytes irradiated with solar simulated radiation. Hyperforin (EC(50) 0.7 μM corresponding to 0.42 μg/ml) was much more effective compared to Trolox (EC(50) 12 μg/ml) and N-acetylcysteine (EC(50) 847 μg/ml) without showing phototoxicity. The radical protection factor of a cream containing 1.5%w/w of a hyperforin-rich HP extract was determined to be 200 × 10(14) radicals/mg, indicating a high radical scavenging activity. The cream was further applied ex vivo on porcine ear skin and significantly reduced radical formation after infrared irradiation. Finally, the UV-protective effect of the HP cream was tested on 20 volunteers in a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study. HP cream significantly reduced UVB-induced erythema as opposed to the vehicle. Occlusive application of HP cream on non-irradiated test sites did not cause any skin irritation. Taken together, these results demonstrate that hyperforin is a powerful free radical scavenger.

In vivo methods for the analysis of the penetration of topically applied substances in and through the skin barrier.

The efficacy of a drug is characterized by its action mechanism and its ability to pass the skin barrier. In this article, different methods are discussed, which permit this penetration process to be analysed non‐invasively. Providing qualitative and quantitative information, tape stripping is one of the oldest procedures for penetration studies. Although single cell layers of corneocytes are removed from the skin surface, this procedure is considered as non‐invasive and is applicable exclusively to the stratum corneum. Recently, optical and spectroscopic methods have been used to investigate the penetration process. Fluorescence‐labelled drugs can be easily detected in the skin by laser scanning microscopy. This method has the disadvantage that the dye labelling changes the molecular structures of the drug and consequently might influence the penetration properties. The penetration process of non‐fluorescent substances can be analysed by Raman spectroscopy, electron paramagnetic resonance, CARS and multiphoton microscopic measurements. Using these methods, the concentration of the topically applied formulations in different depths of the stratum corneum can be detected by moving the laser focus from the skin surface deeper into the stratum corneum. The advantages and disadvantages of these methods will be discussed in this article.

Dose-Dependent Vitamin C Uptake and Radical Scavenging Activity in Human Skin Measured with in vivo Electron Paramagnetic Resonance Spectroscopy

Vitamin C is a potent radical scavenger and a physiological part of the antioxidant system in human skin. The aim of this study was to measure changes in the radical-scavenging activity of human skin in vivo due to supplementation with different doses of vitamin C and at different time points. Therefore, 33 volunteers were supplemented with vitamin C or placebo for 4 weeks. The skin radical-scavenging activity was measured with electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. After 4 weeks, the intake of 100 mg vitamin C/day resulted in a significant increase in the radical-scavenging activity by 22%. Intake of 180 mg/day even resulted in a significant increase of 37%. No changes were found in the placebo group. A part of the study population was additionally measured after 2 weeks: in this group radical scavenging had already reached maximal activity after 2 weeks. In conclusion, orally administered vitamin C increases the radical-scavenging activity of the skin. The effect occurs fast and is enhanced with higher doses of vitamin C.

Radical Protection by Differently Composed Creams in the UV/VIS and IR Spectral Ranges

Modern sunscreens are well suited to provide sufficient protection in the UV range because the filter substances absorb or scatter UV radiation. Although up to 50% of radicals are formed in the visible and infrared spectral range during solar radiation protection strategies are not provided in this range. Previous investigations of commercially available products have shown that in addition to physical filters, antioxidants (AO) are necessary to provide protective effects in the infrared range by neutralizing already formed radicals. In this study, the efficacy of filter substances and AO to reduce radical formation in both spectral ranges was investigated after UV/VIS or IR irradiation. Optical properties and radical protection were determined for the investigated creams. It was found that organic UV filters lower radical formation in the UV/VIS range to 35% compared to untreated skin, independent of the presence of AO. Further reduction to 14% was reached by addition of 2% physical filters, whereas physical filters alone were ineffective in the UV/VIS range due to the low concentration. In contrast, this filter type reduced radical formation in the IR range significantly to 65%; similar effects were aroused after application of AO. Sunscreens which contain organic UV filters, physical filters and AO ensure protection in the complete solar spectrum.

Encapsulated curcumin results in prolonged curcumin activity in vitro and radical scavenging activity ex vivo on skin after UVB-irradiation.

The phytochemical curcumin possesses antioxidant activity; however, it becomes unstable after being exposed to light or heat or loses activity during storage. This is especially important when curcumin is applied to the skin within a cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation, since sun exposure is unavoidable. This drawback can be directly addressed by encapsulation of curcumin in photo-stable nanospheres. Therefore, curcumin was encapsulated into nanoparticles consisting of ethyl cellulose and/or methyl cellulose. Nanoparticles were subjected to processing conditions commonly used in industry, for example, temperature and pressure and thus retained their morphology. Furthermore, sun exposure resulted in the protection of curcumin by nanoparticles, whereas non-encapsulated curcumin degraded completely. Determination of the radical protection factor resulted in similar antioxidant activity of encapsulated and non-encapsulated curcumin indicating that curcumin maintains its antioxidant activity. Application of lotions containing curcumin or curcumin nanoparticles to the skin and subsequent UVB-irradiation resulted in less radical formation compared to lotion application only. Moreover, radical formation was even less after nanoparticle application compared to free curcumin. Nanoencapsulation protects curcumin from photo degradation and can therefore prolong the antioxidant activity of curcumin.

Influence of sun exposure on the cutaneous collagen/elastin fibers and carotenoids: negative effects can be reduced by application of sunscreen

Resonance Raman spectroscopy and multi-photon tomography were used in vivo to analyse the influence of sun exposure on the cutaneous carotenoids and collagen/elastin fibers. Comparing Berlin (low sun exposure) and Monegasque (high sun exposure) volunteers, it could be demonstrated that extended sun exposure significantly reduces the cutaneous carotenoids and collagen/elastin concentration (p < 0.05). The tendency towards correlation (R(2) = 0.41) between the dermal collagen/elastin (SAAID) and carotenoids confirms the important role of antioxidants in the protection against sun-induced negative effects. The application of sunscreen was shown to be effective, protecting cutaneous carotenoids and collagen/elastin from being damaged subsequent to sun exposure.

Radical protection in the visible and infrared by a hyperforin‐rich cream – in vivo versus ex vivo methods

The formation of radicals plays an important role in the development of atopic eczema or barrier‐disrupted skin. We evaluated the radical scavenging effect of a cream containing a Hypericum perforatum extract rich in hyperforin in a double‐blind placebo‐controlled study on 11 healthy volunteers. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy was applied to determine radical formation during VIS/NIR irradiation of the inner forearm. The results were compared to ex vivo investigations on excised porcine ear skin after a single application of the creams. The non‐treated skin was measured as control. The absolute values and the kinetics are not comparable for ex vivo and in vivo radical formation. Whereas in vivo, the radical production decreases with time, it remains stable ex vivo over the investigated timescale. Nevertheless, ex vivo methods could be developed to estimate the protection efficiency of creams. In vivo as well as ex vivo, the radical formation could be reduced by almost 80% when applying the hyperforin‐rich cream onto the skin, whereas placebo resulted in about 60%. In vivo, a daylong protection effect could be validated after a 4‐week application time of the cream indicating that a regular application is necessary to obtain the full effect.

Enhancement of skin radical scavenging activity and stratum corneum lipids after the application of a hyperforin-rich cream

Hyperforin is well-known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, anti-bacterial, and antioxidant properties. The application of a hyperforin-rich verum cream could strengthen the skin barrier function by reducing radical formation and stabilizing stratum corneum lipids. Here, it was investigated whether topical treatment with a hyperforin-rich cream increases the radical protection of the skin during VIS/NIR irradiation. Skin lipid profile was investigated applying HPTLC on skin lipid extracts. Furthermore, the absorption- and scattering coefficients, which influence radical formation, were determined. 11 volunteers were included in this study. After a single cream application, VIS/NIR-induced radical formation could be completely inhibited by both verum and placebo showing an immediate protection. After an application period of 4weeks, radical formation could be significantly reduced by 45% following placebo application and 78% after verum application showing a long-term protection. Furthermore, the skin lipids in both verum and placebo groups increased directly after a single cream application but only significantly for ceramide [AP], [NP1], and squalene. After long-term cream application, concentration of cholesterol and the ceramides increased, but no significance was observed. These results indicate that regular application of the hyperforin-rich cream can reduce radical formation and can stabilize skin lipids, which are responsible for the barrier function.

Evaluation of carotenoids and reactive oxygen species in human skin after UV irradiation: a critical comparison between in vivo and ex vivo investigations.

UV irradiation is one of the most harmful exogenous factors for the human skin. In addition to the development of erythema, free radicals, that is reactive oxygen species (ROS), are induced under its influence and promote the development of oxidative stress in the skin. Several techniques are available for determining the effect of UV irradiation. Resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS) measures the reduction of the carotenoid concentration, while electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy enables the analysis of the production of free radicals. Depending on the method, the skin parameters are analysed in vivo or ex vivo. This study provides a critical comparison between in vivo and ex vivo investigations on the ROS formation and carotenoid depletion caused by UV irradiation in human skin. The oxygen content of tissue was also determined. It was shown that the antioxidant status measured in the skin samples in vivo and ex vivo was different. The depletion in the carotenoid concentration in vivo exceeded the value determined ex vivo by a factor of about 1.5, and the radical formation after UV irradiation was significantly greater in vivo by a factor of 3.5 than that measured in excised human skin, which can be explained by the lack of oxygen ex vivo.