Steve Hayes

The applicability of cluster theory to Canada's small and medium‐sized apparel companies

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to identify and map trends in the Canadian apparel industry (in a global context) and, through the application of Porters models, establish strategies that could be employed by Canadian small and medium enterprizes (SMEs) in response to the move toward trade liberalisation since the phasing out of the multi‐fibre arrangement.Design/methodology/approach – The literature review established trends in the apparel industry both in Canada and globally. Qualitative research in the form of case studies highlighted apparel suppliers perceptions of Canadas strengths and weaknesses as a business setting and provided preliminary information on possible supplier activities which provide value and competitive advantage. The analysis of the primary data also allowed the development of preliminary questions, answers to which will further enhance the understanding of clusters and their applicability to Canadas apparel SMEs.Findings – Canadas apparel manufacturing industry is win...

Lower body functional ease requirements in the garment pattern

Functional ease related to surface changes of the lower body is an important consideration during garment development. Current data available for male subjects have not been established or presented in a manner that can easily be applied during pattern construction. Measurements of the lower body were established in the context of the pattern and changes recorded between a static standing control posture and a number of postures representative of describable functional movements. Functional changes on the lower body were found to be quite significant, relating directly to anatomy of the joints, with higher ROM associated with less stable functional changes. Results indicate that functional changes will be difficult to predict and there was no determinable relationship between larger dimensions and higher functional changes. Functional changes associated with postural change to the lower body can be clearly related to the skeletal structure and can be established in a manner accessible to the pattern technician.

Fabric parameter mapping for seam sewability

A technique has been developed to examine the relationships between fabric parameters by comparing both the fabric mechanical properties and physical characteristics of the material. Similarities between fabric parameters are also identified and analysed. The fabrics were tested using the FAST system and an electronic fingerprint chart was produced for each fabric. Computer software was created to automatically analyse the results of the mechanical and physical parameters and, by using this information, successfully produce a fabric-mapping model and fabric fingerprint. The research concluded that there are strong similarities between certain properties of the fabrics and that the fabric maps are virtually identical on all the fabrics tested.

The True Height of the Waist: Explorations of Automated Body Scanner Waist Definitions of the TC2 Scanner

The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a control section from which lower body garments hang and garments are often required to fit. However, unlike many measurement sites on the body the waist has no single landmark from which to reference it for a population. The non-contact nature of body scanning further complicates this, though automated measurement systems connected to body scanning have developed methods to determine the waist relative to surface geometry. Whilst body scanning provides an opportunity to analyse large volumes of data, there is limited knowledge of how differences in waist definitions using automated systems of measurement compare to waist placement with reference to accepted upper and lower limits. This work employed content analysis methods to understand existing clothing waist definitions and developed different waist definitions within automated measurement software of a TC2 scanner. Measurement extraction using this explorative set of definitions was undertaken on a sample of 106 females whose upper and lower waist limits had been determined through measurement. The data was then analysed to establish how the definitions compared to the waist height determined as the midpoint between the upper (lowest palpable rib) and lower (highest point of the right iliac crest) limits. It was possible to establish that proportional relationships between lengths that could help in defining waist placement and provide checks in automated extraction. As a result of this study a number of suitable waist definitions are proposed for use in the automated measurement software of body scanning technology.

Practical Considerations of Applying Body Scanning as a Teaching and Research Tool

Used in specific ways, body scanning technology can provide greater understanding of the body and its relationship to clothing. However, body scanning is still a developing technology and little is known about the practical applications and limitations of its operation within the education environment. Further to this, whilst there have been many high profile body scanning surveys, there still appears to be little accessible information on the practical issues of body scanning or data derived from scanning. With reference to live industry and academic projects, and the application of this technology within a UK university, recommendations are provided in the following areas: supporting structures and methods to enable; long term research, short term; accruing of data that can be seen as comparable to that collected in other locations and by other teams. Importantly processes and data captured during scanner use have little standardisation and each operator is expected to develop their own structures for training, data collection, assessment, storage and application. This can be extremely difficult without accessible examples of structures and processes previously applied. The team operating this scanner have found a diverse number of uses and developed protocols for ethics and storage that ensure data collected can have long term relevance as a resource in the increasing global arena of big data and collaboration anticipated by existing funding sources. Fundamentally, recommendations are made regarding body scanner supplier interventions that would enable the easier application of this technology and ensure data is comparable and has the greatest value for each and all operators. It is hoped through the adoption and provision of resources to support consistent scanning and data storage the current data collected on a small scale by varied users can have the greatest opportunity for future use collaboratively across different user groups.