Steven Hayes

Online Virtual Fit Is Not Yet Fit For Purpose: An Analysis Of Fashion e-Commerce Interfaces

To unify the methodology of Virtual Fit platforms and allowing cross platform integration of 3D Body Scanning, the current Virtual Fit platforms need to be assessed in terms of their size recommendation approach and user interaction. Digital data, interactivity, and internet technology are changing the ways we interact in online shopping, with the Virtual Fit platforms having great potential to increase retail engagement and market share. This will support online purchasing activities while minimising the perceived risk in garment returns due to the poor sizing fit information. Current research has focused on the analysis of computer modelling techniques, avatars, cloth, fabric draping simulations, and customer behaviour / aesthetic impact in the online domain. From a technical perspective, these investigations offer an interesting insight, although do not address issues of implementation or customer attitude. Therefore, to judge the current and potential impact of such technologies, it is important to understand 1) how they are being enacted online, 2) the Interaction Design elements of the user journey, 3) the application (or lack thereof) of mathematical models, and 4) how such interfaces are embedded within websites. Once these four key questions have been answered a greater understanding of how 3D Body Scanning and Technologies integrated into eCommerce and Virtual Fit platforms in the consumer market may be reached. Through analysis of nine leading Virtual Fit platforms, the persona of a single female dress form was used to work through the customer journey. Through this, screen shot data captured along each stage in relation to the four research questions listed above. Following this, the study utilised content analysis structure with NVivo as a qualitative thematic analysis tool. This study found that despite a large number of platforms using virtual fit technology, only a handful companies exist that provide such technology and interfaces; often based upon subjective ‘previous purchases’ rather than scientific prediction. This issue is made more complicated in how subjective measures such as personal perception of one’s body is required (e.g. what size are you), besides body shape; a concept shown to be ‘broken’ and not fit-for-purpose. In addition, many of the technologies use limited and often misinterpreted body measurements, the impact of which is explored in greater detail within the paper. This study contributes to the understanding of the information required from users by virtual fit platforms, and the understanding of the output as presented by virtual fit platforms. The research goal is to contribute to knowledge as a potential guideline for any future projects in virtual fit and to help direct body scanning developments to better support these platforms.

Scan to Pattern: How body scanning can help transform traditional methods of creating pattern blocks

Body scanning provides one of the most efficient tools for recording information of the human body to support the development of body worn products. Traditionally the construction of garment patterns uses manual measurements and during the construction process applies some proportions, to create a pattern block [1], [2]. Traditional methods of drafting pattern blocks (slopers) apply very limited data from the body compared to the areas they cover and subsequently often require post drafting adjustments to achieve a suitable fit. Most pattern books have guidance on adjustments to blocks to accommodate figure variations [3]–[5]. These methods of block construction are well established and understood and have been used to inspire new approaches and propose theories for pattern block development [2], [6]. With advances in body scanning it is now possible to generate more measurements allowing for the body to have greater context in the process of pattern construction. This research retains the established 2D drafting methods and looks to explore further measurements than those traditionally used to create pattern blocks, these resulting blocks could then better reflect the individual variations in potential wearer size, shape and proportion. As well as looking to determine suitable measurements from a Size Stream (SS14) body scanner to inform the development of pattern blocks, this research tests an established skirt draft [4] using scan measurements, against a newly developed skirt drafting method which utilises the measurement capabilities of body scanning. The developed patterns are each tested on five dress forms. As well as assessing the resulting patterns, recommendations are made regarding how body scanning can be used to better inform pattern construction methods. This includes a contribution toward the theories of pattern construction, which will allow greater exploitation of body scanning technologies in developing better fitting and functioning garments. This research shows one means by which body scanning technologies can help to bridge the gap between traditional techniques of creating pattern blocks and the promising opportunities presented by body scanning technologies.

Joining Techniques For High Performance Apparel

This chapter explores the performance requirements, manufacturing technologies, assembly methods, and construction techniques utilized when joining materials used in the construction of high-performance apparel. Starting with the nature of joins within high-performance apparel, it goes on to explain the stitches and nonsewn techniques—whilst looking at different seam types—used in the construction of these garments. The focus of the chapter is the join, its creation, operation, and optimization.

Not All Body Scanning Measurements are Valid: Perspectives from Pattern Practice

To assume all body scanning measurements are valid for apparel product development is wrong. While human measurement forms the basis for product development and body scanning represents a significant development in the collection of human measurements [1], a distinction must be drawn between measurements suitable for product development (pattern cutting) and those required for the creation of sizing systems. The application of body scanning has largely focused on sizing surveys [2], the standards used in developing the technology are tailored toward surveys [3], [4] and subsequently measurements are often not defined in a manner suitable to developing products. This research began with analysis of product development practices and body scanning outputs to determine the suitability of body scanning to support existing methods of product development. Six methods of pattern development, established from previous research to represent the variation of approaches [5]–[7] were selected, the measurements required for these methods were compared to measurement outputs from both a Size Stream and [TC] body scanner. Further analysis was made regarding the development of custom measurements for each scan system, to see if extra measurements could be defined to match those required or enhance the data used to drive the draft process. Whilst there are promising developments in automated pattern creation [8], [9], there is little existing theory or clear understanding of pattern to person relationships to enable the full realization and embedding of these systems. As well as understanding the suitability of scan measurements for pattern development, this research also recommends further measurements which may improve the patterns’ ability to accord with the individual size, shape and proportion of the wearer. This research shows that there are a range of measurements used for pattern making and these are not all available from existing body scanning systems. Key landmarks and measurements are identified and this research shows how body scanning technology can be developed to support existing and developing methods of pattern development.

Establishing a Pre and Post-3D Bodyscanning Survey Process for Able-bodied UK Women Aged 55 Years+ to Determine an Appropriate Waist Position for Garment Development

Change in human body morphology is well-documented for developmental growth from childhood to adult. However, the morphological change from adulthood to older age is less detailed and less discussed within literature concerned with anthropometric application and clothing construction. This, perhaps, explains why females aged 55+ are the demographic most frustrated with the fit of ready-to-wear garments [1]. A prerequisite for the accurate generation of size chart and pattern development relies on precision in the location and demarcation of landmarks [2,3], therefore an understanding of the changes in body size and shape, how this impacts on anthropometric practice, and, more specifically, the body landmarks is fundamental to provide correctly fitting garments patterns for mature women. Consequently, the aim of this research is to establish a pre- and post-3D body scanning survey process for able-bodied UK women aged 55 years and over, giving them the opportunity to self-select a suitable waist location for clothing from four defined waist positions. A pragmatic, mixed-method methodology was developed to evaluate anthropometric theory and praxis, landmark placement, and subjective body image estimation, to determine the success of their practical application in developing appropriate garment patterns for this demographic. The methodology consisted of four stages: recruitment of eighty (80) women aged 55+ using the three strategies of convenience, snowball and random sampling; the 3D body scanning of each participant using two TC[2] scanners; the use of a visual aid to allow the self-evaluation of personal waist position for garment development; and the evaluation of the visual and numerical scan data against this self-evaluation. The findings indicated that recruitment of this demographic is problematic as it is reliant on subject willingness for participation and this group of subjects were often critical of their body morphology. The questionnaire response rate was 67% which reduced the sample size down to 52 women. The visual aid indicated that the participants were able to readily identify the position of their waist regardless of body morphology. Rectangle, hourglass, triangle and bottom hourglass body shapes were represented in the sample set. The most common body shape shared by this demographic was that of the rectangle and analysis of waist height from the floor position before and after waist landmark modification indicated that the rectangle was the body shape which was most prone to waist placement error from the participants point of view. All body shapes required waist height modification to the original waist height landmark based on participant evaluation of where they felt it comfortable to wear their waistband. Comparative analysis confirmed distinct variation in subjects’ evaluation of waist positioning for a garment and scanner MMU MEP definitions. 59% of participants’ waists landmarks were placed differently by the scanner compared to the placement by the subjects themselves. This study concludes that to improve landmark placement accuracy providing a visual aid to the participant for evaluation in tandem with the practitioner evaluation would be a practice that is useful for common but difficult to locate landmarks, such as the waist. Responses from this visual aid operator evaluation the scan data and more specifically the landmarks.