Susan P. Ashdown

An investigation of the structure of sizing systems

Most apparel sizing systems are based on one or two body dimensions and rely on assumptions about proportional body relationships to project other dimensions necessary to design the garment pattern. Garments from these systems will not fit a population with large variations in body proportions. Using nonlinear optimization methods and anthropometric data of US Army women three multidimensional sizing systems were derived that are designed to provide improved fit for women from the USA, a population with much variation. These systems range from an optimized linear system with a regular grade to an unconstrained optimized system with a grade break at each size. The optimized sizing systems compare favorably with D5585‐94 in their ability to accommodate variation in the population based on a mathematical test of the aggregate loss of each system. Issues related to pattern grading, size selection, and calculation of stock keeping units are discussed.

Environment, Design, and Obesity Opportunities for Interdisciplinary Collaborative Research

This article presents a framework for considering the relevance of the physical environment to obesity. The authors adopt the notion that the “environment” constitutes the space outside the person and therefore broaden the common conceptualization of the “environment” to encompass a full spectrum from small-scale design elements to large-scale community infrastructure. An energy balance approach is also adopted. The energy balance perspective recognizes the equilibrium of food consumption and energy expenditure, rather than focusing solely on one or the other side of the equation. The authors consider how environmental characteristics present either barriers (that hinder), or supports (that promote) healthy habits. Thus, they describe a range of obesity-related environmental themes that provide opportunities for innovative collaborative research between environmental psychologists and colleagues in fields ranging from apparel design to landscape architecture. Last, conceptual and methodological considerations are briefly presented.

Perception testing of apparel ease variation.

The development of new computer technologies designed to custom-fit apparel has created a need for quantification of apparel fit characteristics. Fit perception and preference data are needed to improve sizing for ready-to-wear and custom-fitted apparel. Tactile responses of subjects to the fit of pants were investigated using an adaptation of an American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) sensory perception test. The test was designed to establish thresholds in apparel fit: that is, the smallest difference in garment dimensions that can be consistently perceived and identified. The test samples for the study were a set of 15 pants, which varied in size, made for each participant from precise computer-generated patterns. Four female experts in apparel fit, who comprised the subject panel, each recorded their responses to these pants compared to a control. Control pants were custom-fitted to each panel member; the remaining pants in each set varied from the control by 0.5 to 1.5 cm at a single location (waist, hips, or crotch length). When the pants were presented in a blind test, the panel perceived differences as small as 0.5 cm in pants waist size from the control. Differences of 1.5 cm were perceptible at the hip and crotch. The subjects level of acceptance of the fit variations in the pants was then judged using a preference test. This test revealed differences among individual subjects in the acceptability of fit variations in waist and crotch dimensions; judgements of the acceptability of hip variations were more consistent among the subjects. Judging from the results of this testing, it is concluded that threshold levels at which fit differences can be perceived can be established for different areas of the body, and that perceptible fit variations can be quite small. This testing also showed that individuals vary in their tolerance for fit variations at different locations on the body.

Effect of Changes in Knit Structure and Density on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of Weft-Knitted Fabrics for Outerwear

This study focuses on the mechanical properties of weft knits for outerwear as a function of knit structure and density and the relationships between hand, structure, and density. Eighteen weft knits are produced with six different structures (1 × 1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties and hand values of the fabrics are measured using the KES-F method. Tensile properties increase for fabrics with a higher density, as do bending and shear properties. Compression values decrease somewhat as knit density increases but differences in compression values are not very large. Surface properties such as softness and smoothness increase with density. Specific findings for tensile properties reveal that the single-pique and the crossmiss interlock can not absorb external stress as much as the 1 × 1 rib and the interlock when stresses are applied in the course direction. Knits with tuck and miss stitches (half- cardigan rib, half-milano rib, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) have better dimen sional stability than fabrics with only knit stitches. Testing of primary hand values shows increased stiffness and fullness and softness and decreased smoothness as knit density increases. Total hand value increases with knit density. Double knits show higher total hand values than single knits. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock structures have the highest total hand values. Based on the tests results and an understanding of current market needs for dimensionally stable fabrics with a soft hand, we conclude that knit structures with combined miss and tuck stitches exhibit properties appropriate for outer wear fabrics for the winter season.

Three-Dimensional Body Scan Data Analysis: Body Size and Shape Dependence of Ease Values for Pants' Fit

Three-dimensional body scanning technology was used to analyze fit of womens pants and to measure garment ease at various locations. Special test pants constructed with adjustable Velcro sections were used to provide custom fit for each study participant. Twenty-four subjects, ages 35 to 55, represented three body shape groups (straight, medium, curvy) determined by the hip-to-waist circumferences ratio, and four size groups covering Misses size range 4 to 16. Scans of a subject wearing minimal clothing and of the same subject wearing the test pant, adjusted by the researchers for best fit in a standing position, were compared. The differences between the pant and body scans (ease) were determined for circumference, slice area, surface area, and volume measurements at various locations and analyzed for size and shape dependence. Decrease in percent ease differences with increasing size was observed for several variables; no clear dependence on shape was found. Size dependences were used to propose a way of pattern grading with grade intervals variable by size and body location.

A study of automated custom fit: Readiness of the Technology for the apparel industry

Sophisticated new technologies are available to the apparel industry to create automated custom-fitted clothing; research and development of necessary data and proceduresfor implementing these programs must be within reach of apparel companies to successfully implement custom.fit. This study explores issues in setting up a custom apparel patternmaking process using 3D body scanning and software designed to automate patternmaking. Questions related to measurement reliability and validity, data and knowledge needed to create and test required system variables, andfit preference issues were addressed in this study. A system for generating custom-fitted outerwearjackets was developedfor an industry collaborator, Log House Designs, and tested on ten participants. The.fit of the prototype custom jackets was compared to thefit of a set of ready-to-wearjackets. Seven of the ten participants preferred thefit of the prototype custom jacket; the remaining three were equally satisfied with both jackets.

3D body scan analysis of dimensional change in lower body measurements for active body positions

In this study we use 3D scans to measure and analyze lower body measurement change for various active body positions, comparing a standing posture, a 120° knee bend posture, a one pace stepping posture, and a sitting posture with 90° knee bend. Small hemispherical markers identified body landmarks for reliable measurement of the 3D scans. Study participants were 25 females, aged 18 to 24, with hip measurements from 93 cm to 103 cm. We compared the measurements from each posture to a standing posture with feet apart and arms abducted (a modified anthropometric stance commonly used for body scanning). We also tested the reliability of the 3D measurements on active postures. Two types of measurements were compared, 3D scan measurements using virtual tools on the computer screen and traditional manual anthropometric measurements. No significant differences between the two types of measurements were found except for knee height. Selected scan measurements were also repeated three times and found to be reliable. A comparison of scan measurements in the active postures showed significant changes from the standard standing scan posture. The sitting posture showed the most change in measurements. Back center leg length, front center leg length, front waist to hip line depth, front crotch length, back crotch length, knee girth, and hip girth were the items that exhibited the most change in the sitting posture. The measurement of 3D scans provided a reliable and convenient method for comparative measurements between active body positions, which would be impractical to measure using standard anthropometric methods.

A shoulder pad insert vibrotactile display

Touch is the most intimate and inherently private humansense and provides the potential for discrete, low socialweight human computer interaction. This paper presentsinitial research findings on issues of integrating avibrotatcitle display and support electronics into a standardclothing insert, the shoulder pad. Research on constructionmethods is presented along with a discussion of the meritsand drawbacks of each technique. User study data forresponse to tactile display stimuli, collected with a varyingnumber of stimulators, is then presented with initialconclusions as to the type and format of data suitable forshoulder based tactile arrays.

Comparison of 3-D Body Scan Data to Quantify Upper-Body Postural Variation in Older and Younger Women

As women age, changes occur in their posture and bilateral symmetry that affect the fit of clothing. These changes have been documented in many studies. Anthropometric measures made in previous studies, however, were limited to linear measurements (circumferences or lengths) and included only one angle, the shoulder slope. In this study, the authors took detailed measurements using a 3-D body scanner to validate previous studies and more precisely quantify body changes in older women. They compared upper-body measurements of 40 women aged 19-35 to those of 40 women aged 55+. Using these measurements, we quantified the differences in posture and the differences in the amount of bilateral variation between the older and younger women. Nineteen upper-body angles, 16 linear measurements, and one proportional measurement were included in the study. Of the 36 body measurements taken, 21 measurements were significantly different between the two groups of women.

Improving Pant Fit for Women 55 and Older through an Exploration of Two Pant Shapes

Relationships of sizing, body shape, and pattern shape to pants fit were explored for women aged 55 and older. Test pants were designed in two shape options (full/flat seat) in five sizes, produced, and tested on 176 participants in five states. Sizes were developed using ASTM D5586-94 data. Both participants and experts evaluated fit. Participants with flatter seat shape were significantly more satisfied with fit at the hip indicating that the introduction of a shape variable can improve satisfaction with fit for population segments with equivalent body shape variations. Experts were more critical, identifying areas of variation not addressed in the study. Results highlight the complexity of fit. Variations in body size, shape, proportion, and posture make creation of effective ready-to-wear sizing systems with a practical number of sizes difficult. Solutions to provide good fit may include creating sizing for a subset of mature women and developing custom fit methods.