Thomas A. Hardy

A wave model for the Great Barrier reef

A new wind wave generation model, WAMGBR, is presented that has been adapted from WAM especially for use in the complex geometry of the Great Barrier Reef. A technique (reef parameterization) has been presented that incorporates sub-grid scale dissipation caused by coral reefs. Three other improvements to WAM have been proposed. An explicit/implicit finite difference scheme has been implemented that allows for more efficient modelling (longer time steps) while maintaining diffusive characteristics that are at least as good as those of WAM. An offset in discrete angles creates more uniform diffusive characteristics. And, a transformed spherical coordinate system allows for more efficient grid sizes and smaller grid dependent refraction. Comparisons between modelling techniques and between model and measured data show that WAMGBR produces very good results in the difficult challenge of modelling both non-cyclonic and tropical cyclone waves in the geographically complex environment of the Great Barrier Reef.

COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

The Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX), is an international basic research programme concerned with full-scale measurements, analysis, modelling and simulation in test basins of 3-dimensional seas. The research is carried out in order to assess the significance of 3-dimensional sea states in engineering applications. The first phase of the programme full scale wave measurements in the North Atlantic Ocean was performed at a site and time that had a high probability of encountering severe sea states. The present publication shows examples of measured bi-modal directional sea spectra obtained with the WAVESCAN buoy and directional sea spectra measured with an airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR). Directional spectra of gravity waves are obtained with the SAR both in open waters and below an ice cover. Further work is needed in order to verify SAR-measurements with in-situ observations. In-situ measured directional spectra are also compared with hindcast spectra from the 3G-WAM model. Hindcast significant wave heights were found to be lower than the in-situ measurements.The littoral drift model developed at DHI and ISVA, see Deigaard et al. (1986b) has been extended to include the effects of the irregularity of the waves, of a coastal current and a wind acting on the surf zone. Further, a mathematical model to simulate the near-shore current pattern along a barred coast with rip channels has been developed. The influence on the littoral drift of the irregularity of waves, wind, coastal current, and rip channels is discussed. It is concluded that irregularity of waves and presence of rip channels must be considered while coastal current and wind action are of minor importance.At present, the Prodhoe Bay oil field in Alaska contributes a substantial amount of the domestic oil production of the United States. Oil is also expected to be present on the continental shelf of Alaska, and it is estimated that approximatedly 28 percent of the total U. S. reserve is located beneath the shallow ice covered seas of the Alaskan continental shelf. To expolre and to exploit these oil rich resources, engineers are confronted with hostile oceanographic conditions such as high tides, waves, strong currents and sea ice. The same area is also rich in fishery resources. Being one of the most productive fishing grounds in the nothern Pacific, the potential ecological impact due to an oil spill is of a major concern. This paper describes the methologies used for the development of a modeling system for the oil risk analysis. The system is designed with generality in mind so it can be used for other coastal areas. The development of three dimensional models used in the modeling system described here have been published in the earlier International Coastal Engineering Conferences (Liu and Leendertse, 1982, 1984, 1986) and a report published recently by RAND (Liu and Leendertse, 1987). In the oil-spill risk analysis, these three dimensional hydrodynamic models are coupled to a two-dimensional stochastic weather model and an oil weathering model.The two projects (LUBIATOWO 79 and LUBIATOWO 86) were aimed at study pore pressure behaviour in natural sand bed in the coastal zone of the Baltic sea under the action of storm waves. During both projects, the wave induced pore pressures at the various levels in the sea bed were measured. The collected data were used to verify the applicability of the various theoretical approaches. In the conclusion, the range of the application of the particular analytical method is given.The rapid recession of the shingle bank of Hurst Beach (up to 3.5m/yr) makes it an excellent natural laboratory for the study of the factors which influence the stability of shingle beaches. Studies have included: the significance of long period, high energy, swell waves the classification and quantification of overwash processes run-up and seepage characteristics the effect of settlement of the underlying strata and the implications for practices in shingle nourishment. The studies have revealed the distinctive character of shingle beaches as compared with the more fully researched sand beaches. More detailed research on shingle beaches is justified particularly in relation to (i) the run-up characteristics including its interaction with swash cusps and (ii) the influence of the subsidiary sand fraction on the beach characteristics.Environmental assessment, engineering studies and designs were completed for a new 26.5 m3/s seawater intake system in the Persian Gulf. The original intake facility consisted of a curved, 60m breakwater with one end attached to the shoreline, a settling basin immediately adjacent to the shoreline and dredged to a maximum depth of approximately 5m, and a pumphouse structure located on shore such that the seaward wall formed one side of the settling basin. The facility located on an island in the Gulf, which served multiple seawater uses, had experienced both structural and operational problems, the latter consisting principally of excessive ingestion of sediment and seaweed. These factors plus the requirement for additional demands for seawater beyond plant capacity caused the owner to initiate a study of alternative intake systems, produce a design for the most effective solution and construct the new intake system.A two-dimensional wave prediction model suitable for use on personal computers is described. The model requires the twodimensional time-dependent wind field as input. Output consists of wave height, wave period, and wave direction estimates at all grid points on a computational grid representing an enclosed or semi-closed basin. Model predictions compare favorably with observations from a wave research tower in Lake Erie. A formula is provided to estimate how long a model simulation would take on a personal computer given the surface area of the computational domain, the grid size, and the computer clock speed.Cullera Bay is a neritic ecosystem placed on the Spanish Mediterranean Littoral largely influenced by the Jucar River, that brings about lower salinities than surrounding waters, and broad variations of its values. An extensive research, with 9 samplings throughout the year, was carried out, measuring both physical and chemical parameters, and the planktonic communities. The trophic status of the ecosystem, the spatial and temporal variations of the nutrients and the planktonic communities were studied, evaluating the influence of the river loads and the littoral dynamics. Some essential basis to allow a suitable emplacement of waste waters disposals along the Valencian littoral are set up in order to minimize the gradual eutrophication of this coast.In the last two years a whole of studies was realized in order to determine precise solutions to the regeneration of Villajoyosas beach, in the Spanish mediterranean coast. Investigations were carried out to the surrounding coastal areas based in field investigations and laboratory analyses of the beaches materials.

Generating Synthetic Tropical Cyclone Databases for Input to Modeling of Extreme Winds, Waves, and Storm Surges

The attack of a severe tropical cyclone at any location is a rare event; therefore, a long data record is necessary in order to determine the characteristics of the population of storms that can affect a location. Unfortunately, reliable and complete data of tropical cyclone tracks and central pressures are not nearly long enough to define the severe end of the distributions. To mitigate this problem of the lack of data in the two Australian tropical cyclone regions a state-of-the-art modeling system has been developed and deployed in three projects, two in the Coral Sea (Hardy et al., 2003, 2004) and one in the Northwestern Australia waters. The Coral Sea studies produced a set of 3,000 years of synthetic tropical cyclones and then simulated the winds, waves, and storm tides. Three climate change scenarios were also modeled. The Northwestern study was much more ambitious, modeling 100,000 years of tropical cyclones to obtain robust measures of the 100-10,000 year return periods of wind and wave conditions. The modeling system required development and/or adaptation of a series of models: (a) synthetic tropical cyclone model, (b) parametric wind field model, (c) wave model, and (d) storm surge and current model. This modeling technique could be applied to any tropical cyclone region to provide input to wind, wave, storm surge, erosion, rainfall, and flood routing models.

Stage-Frequency Curves for Flooding Due to Wave Overtopping of Seawalls

Curves relating flood levels With their frequency of occurrence are established for a coastal area just north of Boston. The principal cause of flooding is the overtopping of seawalls by storm waves. The project procedure involves the use of five modeling systems, including numerical storm surge, numerical spectral wave, physical wave overtopping, flood routing, and probability models. The main focus is on the probability model with the other four models only briefly described.