Veljko Krstonošić

A combined approach in characterization of an effective w/o hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance

To formulate a consumer‐acceptable cosmetic product, numerous demands have to be fulfilled, and as the most important, efficacy (both real and perceived), adequate aesthetic (visual perception) and all sensorial characteristics have to be achieved. In this study, four model water‐in‐oil creams intended for hand care, varying in one emollient component, were submitted to rheological, sensory and textural characterization, and their efficacy was evaluated in in vivo study on human volunteers. Our results indicate that certain alteration restricted to the oil phase induced a change in all investigated characteristics, showing that each instrumental measurement can be used as a sensitive tool in the characterization of cream samples. Regarding the correlation between physical measurements and certain sensory attributes, it is possible to formulate a product with specific sensory characteristics by using pre‐defined rheological or textural parameters. To obtain a complete sensory profile of a cosmetic product, a detailed sensory evaluation should be carried out according to the existing standard practices, which are both time‐ and money‐consuming. However, a modified sensory study could be useful for fast in‐line screening along with instrumental characterization of a novel cosmetic emulsion product and could be particularly helpful in the process of distinguishing a single formulation from several differing in one component.

Conductometric study of sodium dodecyl sulfate - nonionic surfactant (Triton X-100, Tween 20, Tween 60, Tween 80 or Tween 85) mixed micelles in aqueous solution

The present study is concerned with the determination of the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of mixed micelles of sodium dodecyl sulfate with one of five nonionic surfactants (Triton X-100, Tween 20, Tween 60, Tween 80 or Tween 85) from conductance measurements. Based on the calculated values of the β parameter we have noticed that SDS-nonionic surfactants mostly showed strong synergistic effects. It was found that nonionic surfactants with mainly longer and more hydrophobic tails show stronger interactions with hydrophobic parts of SDS, thus expressing stronger synergism. The strongest synergistic effect was noticed in an SDS-Tween 80 binary system. The SDS-Tween 85 micellar system showed antagonistic effect, most probably because the presence of the double bond in its three hydrophobic tails (three C18 tails) makes it sterically rigid.

Colloid Characteristics and Emulsifying Properties of OSA Starches

The objective of this paper was to characterize commercially available octenyl-succinate starches (OSA starches), Purity Gum 2000 and Hi-cap 100, by determining their viscous behaviour and characteristics and molecular mass, as well as to examine their emulsifying properties in corn oil-in-water emulsion system.

Interactions between selected bile salts and Triton X-100 or sodium lauryl ether sulfate

BackgroundIn order to develop colloidal drug carriers with desired properties, it is important to determine physico-chemical characteristics of these systems. Bile salt mixed micelles are extensively studied as novel drug delivery systems. The objective of the present investigation is to develop and characterize mixed micelles of nonionic (Triton X-100) or anionic (sodium lauryl ether sulfate) surfactant having oxyethylene groups in the polar head and following bile salts: cholate, deoxycholate and 7-oxodeoxycholate.ResultsThe micellization behaviour of binary anionic-nonionic and anionic-anionic surfactant mixtures was investigated by conductivity and surface tension measurements. The results of the study have been analyzed using Clints, Rubinghs, and Motomuras theories for mixed binary systems. The negative values of the interaction parameter indicate synergism between micelle building units. It was noticed that Triton X-100 and sodium lauryl ether sulfate generate the weakest synergistic interactions with sodium deoxycholate, while 7-oxodeoxycholate creates the strongest attractive interaction with investigated co-surfactants.ConclusionIt was concluded that increased synergistic interactions can be attributed to the larger number of hydrophilic groups at α side of the bile salts. Additionally, 7-oxo group of 7-oxodeoxycholate enhance attractive interactions with selected co-surfactants more than 7-hydroxyl group of sodium cholate.

Viscoelastic properties of uncured resin composites: Dynamic oscillatory shear test and fractional derivative model

OBJECTIVE In this study we analyze viscoelastic properties of three flowable (Wave, Wave MV, Wave HV) and one universal hybrid resin (Ice) composites, prior to setting. We developed a mathematical model containing fractional derivatives in order to describe their properties. METHODS Isothermal experimental study was conducted on a rheometer with parallel plates. In dynamic oscillatory shear test, storage and loss modulus, as well as the complex viscosity where determined. We assumed four different fractional viscoelastic models, each belonging to one particular class, derivable from distributed-order fractional constitutive equation. The restrictions following from the Second law of thermodynamics are imposed on each model. The optimal parameters corresponding to each model are obtained by minimizing the error function that takes into account storage and loss modulus, thus obtaining the best fit to the experimental data. RESULTS In the frequency range considered, we obtained that for Wave HV and Wave MV there exist a critical frequency for which loss and storage modulus curves intersect, defining a boundary between two different types of behavior: one in which storage modulus is larger than loss modulus and the other in which the situation is opposite. Loss and storage modulus curves for Ice and Wave do not show this type of behavior, having either elastic, or viscous effects dominating in entire frequency range considered. SIGNIFICANCE The developed models may be used to predict behavior of four tested composites in different flow conditions (different deformation speed), thus helping to estimate optimal handling characteristics for specific clinical applications.

Feasibility of a Natural Surfactant as a Stabilizer for Cosmetics with Liposome-Encapsulated Plant Stem Cells: Pre-Formulation and Formulation Through Stability Studies

Abstract During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifiers critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.

Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases

Abstract Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.