William Oxenham

Analyzing Structural and Physical Properties of Ring, Rotor, and Friction Spun Yarns

This research is a comparative study of the structural and physical properties of ring, rotor, and friction spun yams and an attempt to explain the differences in their physical properties on the basis of yam structure. Results show that the ring spun yam exhibits the highest fiber migration, followed by rotor spun yam, and friction spun yam with the least. A higher migration factor corresponds with a higher yam breaking tenacity. An analysis of packing density shows that the fibers for the rotor yam are located most densely near the yam center, while the friction yam has the highest density of fibers near the yam surface. The ring spun yam has a moderately uniform distribution of fiber packing density. The experimental results on fiber arrangement near the yam axis show that the friction spun yam has the highest rupture elongation due to the skewed arrangement of fibers around the yam axis. Yam hairiness strongly depends on mean fiber position, with an inward shifting of the packing density leading to low yam hairiness.

Effects of some process parameters on the structure and properties of vortex spun yarn

The effects of a number of process parameters, including the nozzle angle, nozzle pressure, spindle diameter, yarn delivery speed, and distance between the front roller and the spindle, on the structure and properties of vortex spun yarns were investigated. A modified version of the tracer fiber technique (J. Text. Inst.,43, T60-T66, 1952) combined with the Image Analysis Application Version 3.0 (B.A.R.N. Engineering) was utilized to explore yarn structure. The migration behavior of fibers was characterized using the migration parameters introduced by Hearle et al. (Text. Res. J.,35, 329-334,788-795, 1965). The results showed that the short front roller to the spindle distance caused better evenness, low imperfections, and less hairiness. High nozzle angle, high nozzle pressure, low yarn delivery speed and small spindle diameter reduced hairiness as well. High nozzle angle, high nozzle pressure and low speed also led to higher fiber migration. Surprisingly nozzle angle, nozzle pressure or delivery speed did not have any significant effects on yarn tensile properties. This is believed to be caused by the relatively small differences between the levels of these parameters used in the trials. The present study provides a window into the vortex spinning technology, but further research needs to be conducted to establish a “process-structure-property model” for vortex yarns.

Niche market strategy for a mature marketplace

Purpose – To examine how companies in the maturity stage of the product life cycle can implement and maintain a successful niche market strategy to increase competitiveness in the face of new competition, with particular reference to the global textile industry.Design/methodology/approach – Responsible executives in eight firms in the textile and apparel/clothing sector in the USA were interviewed face‐to‐face or by telephone, or completed an online questionnaire. The sample contains leaders in the industry.Findings – Research results suggest that niche marketing is an effective strategy for countering price competition in a mature industry and can use a niche market strategy. They identify key success factors, the most important factor of which was found to be a thorough understanding of the targeted consumers. It is concluded that the marketing mix plays a more important part than is generally suggested in the literature, by communicating non‐price product attributes to the niche market.Research limitat...

Comparison of Properties and Structures of Compact and Conventional Spun Yarns

The properties and structural parameters of compact and conventional ring yarns produced at five different twist levels were compared. A modified version of the tracer fiber technique (J. Textile Inst., 43, T60-T66, 1952) combined with the Image Analysis Application Version 3.0 (B.A.R.N. Engineering) was utilized to explore yarn structure. Results obtained from these analyses showed that the high tenacity values of compact yarns can be attributed to the higher rate and amplitude of fiber migration in these yarns compared to those in conventional ring yarns. Another important finding was the superiority of compact yarns in terms of tensile properties is less noticeable at higher twist levels and in 50/50 polyester/cotton blend.

The Insertion of ‘Twist’ into Yarns by Means of Air-jets. Part I: An Experimental Study of Air-jet Spinning

A comparison of the yarns spun on three different arrangements of air-jets shows that the Murata-type twin-jet arrangement produces well-wrapped, strong yarns. For the production of a high level of fasciation, it is necessary that the distance between the front roller nip and the position at which the edge fibres contact the the strand should be as long as possible. If the edge fibres contact the strand close to the roller nip, they will either not produce wrapping fibres or at best produce very short wraps. An analysis of the wrapping-fibre formation indicates that the Murata principle is advantageous in creating long and effective wrapping fibres. Some of the spinning conditions are investigated, and the results are interpreted in accordance with the above mechanism.

Effect of Jet Design on the Properties of Air-Jet Spun Yarns

The application of air-jet spinning to processing of 100% cotton fibers has been limited by poor yam strength, which is due to inadequate frequency and extent of wrapper fibers. These inadequacies can be reduced by modifying the design of the jets. The effects of orifice angle, twisting chamber diameter, and friction of the twisting chamber are examined and their influence on the tenacity of 15 and 18 tex cotton yams is reported.

Opportunities in the international textile and apparel marketplace for niche markets

With the present transient status of many countries’ economies, the international textile industry faces considerable challenges. There are many uncertainties surrounding the global textile market, exacerbated by the foreboding that in 2005, quotas will be eliminated, resulting in “free” trade flows. There is no doubt that manufacturers who have created niche markets will be better positioned to compete in the global marketplace and achieve higher margins for products while yielding greater profitability. This paper is an introduction of a larger study that will examine how niche market definitions are being recast, owing to changing global patterns. This paper addresses what role niche markets will play in 2005. Specific objectives are: to give a broad overview of various trade theories, including classical, neo‐classical, post‐neo‐classical, and modern, in order to determine what, theoretically, the future holds for the US textile and apparel industry. Specifically, focus will be given to the issue of specialization as a result of trade; to explain how the specialization advocated by trade economists relates to niche markets in the US textile and apparel industry; to illustrate how traditional marketing methods differ from niche marketing; and to examine what role niche markets will play in the US textile and apparel industry in 2005. The results of this research study will aid in the formulation of a business strategy that can by utilized to capitalize on niche markets and will provide a research framework for global textile researchers.

Fibre Behaviour in the Twisting Zone of a Friction-spinning Process

A simple model of a fibre landing in the twisting zone of a friction spinner is described. The effects of fibre properties, air flow in the feeding tube, landing angle, and initial fibre configuration on the shape of the fibre after landing are considered.

Niche market strategy in the textile and apparel industry

Purpose – The purpose of this study is to examine how the textile and apparel industry can utilize a niche market strategy in order to compete with lower priced imports.Design/methodology/approach – The research design used for this study was an in‐depth case study method. The sample consisted of selected companies from the fiber, textile, apparel, and auxiliary sectors who are considered leaders in the US textile and apparel industry.Findings – Results indicated that firms can approach a niche strategy from either a market or a product perspective. Findings also indicated variables that are used by firms for both approaches. The most important factor in which a firm needs to focus is understanding the consumer.Research limitations/implications – Because of the limited sample size of US textile and apparel firms, the results can only be generalized to those companies that participated in the study and not the entire textile and apparel industry.Practical implications – This research study showed that a ni...

24—A STUDY OF THE STRENGTH OF WRAPPED YARNS PART I: THE THEORETICAL MODEL

The tensile behaviour of wrap-spun yarns is influenced by their structure and by the properties of both the parallel-fibre core and the filament binder yarn. A general model of wrap-spun yarns is proposed, which, with appropriate assumptions, can be used to predict the relationship between yarn strength and structural parameters.