Yoshiharu Matsumi

Stability of Armour Units on Breakwater Heads under Multidirectional Waves

This study gain the assessment referring to the stability weight of armour stones for the breakwater head and trunk under multidirectional waves through the series of laboratory experiments in the multidirectional wave basin and the numerical calculations of the stone weight using the velocity measurements and the static stability formula for the armour stone on the heads and trunk. Furthermore, in order to support more comprehensive understanding of the stability weight of armour stones on the head and trunk under multidirectional waves, the dynamic stability formula for the armour stone, which is taken the rolling motion of stones on the slope of breakwaters at every moment into consideration, is developed.

VELOCITY FIELD MEASUREMENTS OVER BREAKWATER HEADS UNDER 3D WAVES

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

A study of a real-time storm surge forecast system using a neural network at the Sanin Coast, Japan

This study investigates the sensitivity of real-time storm surge forecasts to local measured data in an artificial neural network along the Sanin Coast, Japan. The forecast experiments were conducted by combining the various components for the input data; the sea surface level, the sea level pressure, its depression rate, the wind speed, the wind direction and the typhoon position, increasing the numbers of measurement stations and typhoon events. It is found that the increasing numbers of components, stations and events result in the accurate storm surge prediction in the neural network. In addition, it appears that the predicted storm surges are closer to the observation in the neural network trained with the forecast lead times of 1h and 2h than.

A FUNDAMENTAL STUDY ON CONSTRUCTION SCHEME FOR RUBBLE FOUNDATION OF DEEP WATER BREAKWATER FROM HOPPER BARGES

Tanah Lot Temple is situated in Tabanan Regency - Bali, on the coast of the Indonesian Ocean. Due to continuous wave attack, wind force, and weathering of the rock bank where the Temple stands, abrasion has occured which is more and more threatening the existence of the Temple. Considering that Tanah Lot Temple is a sacred place for the Hindu Balinese people and a place of high cultural value, and also an important tourism, steps to save the Temple are imperative. The Central as well as the Regional Authorities, and also the Bali nese community are very much interested in the effort to keep the Temple intact. Measures have been undertaken to protect both the seaside and land-side banks of the Temple rock bank. This paper only discusses counter measures of the sea —side bank of the Temple.

DISCRETE MAINTENANCE MODELS OF ARMOUR BLOCK FACILITY UNDER PEAKS-OVER-THRESHOLD

It applies some results of discrete maintenance models to an armour block facility. The armour block facility is subject to waves which occur at a homogeneous Poisson process. As a result, the facilitys resistance deteriorates with elapsed time. The deterioration process is assumed as a gamma process. The facility is broken by a strong shock when a load of the shock exceeds the resistance level. The broken facility is maintained immediately as corrective maintenance. In order to reduce a total maintenance cost, we carry out preventive maintenance. As a criterion for maintenance decision making, it adopts a total expected maintenance cost over an infinite time horizon. A necessary condition to minimize the criterion is discussed. Finally, some numerical examples are given.

WAVE KINEMATICS ON BREAKWATER HEADS AND STABILITY OF ARMOUR LAYERS UNDER MULTIDIRECTIONAL WAVES

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

THE FUNDAMENTAL STUDY TO REDUCE THE SETTLED AREA OF THE FISH AGGREGATION DEVICES ON THE SEA FLOOR THROWN FROM A SHIP

The Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX), is an international basic research programme concerned with full-scale measurements, analysis, modelling and simulation in test basins of 3-dimensional seas. The research is carried out in order to assess the significance of 3-dimensional sea states in engineering applications. The first phase of the programme full scale wave measurements in the North Atlantic Ocean was performed at a site and time that had a high probability of encountering severe sea states. The present publication shows examples of measured bi-modal directional sea spectra obtained with the WAVESCAN buoy and directional sea spectra measured with an airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR). Directional spectra of gravity waves are obtained with the SAR both in open waters and below an ice cover. Further work is needed in order to verify SAR-measurements with in-situ observations. In-situ measured directional spectra are also compared with hindcast spectra from the 3G-WAM model. Hindcast significant wave heights were found to be lower than the in-situ measurements.The littoral drift model developed at DHI and ISVA, see Deigaard et al. (1986b) has been extended to include the effects of the irregularity of the waves, of a coastal current and a wind acting on the surf zone. Further, a mathematical model to simulate the near-shore current pattern along a barred coast with rip channels has been developed. The influence on the littoral drift of the irregularity of waves, wind, coastal current, and rip channels is discussed. It is concluded that irregularity of waves and presence of rip channels must be considered while coastal current and wind action are of minor importance.At present, the Prodhoe Bay oil field in Alaska contributes a substantial amount of the domestic oil production of the United States. Oil is also expected to be present on the continental shelf of Alaska, and it is estimated that approximatedly 28 percent of the total U. S. reserve is located beneath the shallow ice covered seas of the Alaskan continental shelf. To expolre and to exploit these oil rich resources, engineers are confronted with hostile oceanographic conditions such as high tides, waves, strong currents and sea ice. The same area is also rich in fishery resources. Being one of the most productive fishing grounds in the nothern Pacific, the potential ecological impact due to an oil spill is of a major concern. This paper describes the methologies used for the development of a modeling system for the oil risk analysis. The system is designed with generality in mind so it can be used for other coastal areas. The development of three dimensional models used in the modeling system described here have been published in the earlier International Coastal Engineering Conferences (Liu and Leendertse, 1982, 1984, 1986) and a report published recently by RAND (Liu and Leendertse, 1987). In the oil-spill risk analysis, these three dimensional hydrodynamic models are coupled to a two-dimensional stochastic weather model and an oil weathering model.The two projects (LUBIATOWO 79 and LUBIATOWO 86) were aimed at study pore pressure behaviour in natural sand bed in the coastal zone of the Baltic sea under the action of storm waves. During both projects, the wave induced pore pressures at the various levels in the sea bed were measured. The collected data were used to verify the applicability of the various theoretical approaches. In the conclusion, the range of the application of the particular analytical method is given.The rapid recession of the shingle bank of Hurst Beach (up to 3.5m/yr) makes it an excellent natural laboratory for the study of the factors which influence the stability of shingle beaches. Studies have included: the significance of long period, high energy, swell waves the classification and quantification of overwash processes run-up and seepage characteristics the effect of settlement of the underlying strata and the implications for practices in shingle nourishment. The studies have revealed the distinctive character of shingle beaches as compared with the more fully researched sand beaches. More detailed research on shingle beaches is justified particularly in relation to (i) the run-up characteristics including its interaction with swash cusps and (ii) the influence of the subsidiary sand fraction on the beach characteristics.Environmental assessment, engineering studies and designs were completed for a new 26.5 m3/s seawater intake system in the Persian Gulf. The original intake facility consisted of a curved, 60m breakwater with one end attached to the shoreline, a settling basin immediately adjacent to the shoreline and dredged to a maximum depth of approximately 5m, and a pumphouse structure located on shore such that the seaward wall formed one side of the settling basin. The facility located on an island in the Gulf, which served multiple seawater uses, had experienced both structural and operational problems, the latter consisting principally of excessive ingestion of sediment and seaweed. These factors plus the requirement for additional demands for seawater beyond plant capacity caused the owner to initiate a study of alternative intake systems, produce a design for the most effective solution and construct the new intake system.A two-dimensional wave prediction model suitable for use on personal computers is described. The model requires the twodimensional time-dependent wind field as input. Output consists of wave height, wave period, and wave direction estimates at all grid points on a computational grid representing an enclosed or semi-closed basin. Model predictions compare favorably with observations from a wave research tower in Lake Erie. A formula is provided to estimate how long a model simulation would take on a personal computer given the surface area of the computational domain, the grid size, and the computer clock speed.Cullera Bay is a neritic ecosystem placed on the Spanish Mediterranean Littoral largely influenced by the Jucar River, that brings about lower salinities than surrounding waters, and broad variations of its values. An extensive research, with 9 samplings throughout the year, was carried out, measuring both physical and chemical parameters, and the planktonic communities. The trophic status of the ecosystem, the spatial and temporal variations of the nutrients and the planktonic communities were studied, evaluating the influence of the river loads and the littoral dynamics. Some essential basis to allow a suitable emplacement of waste waters disposals along the Valencian littoral are set up in order to minimize the gradual eutrophication of this coast.In the last two years a whole of studies was realized in order to determine precise solutions to the regeneration of Villajoyosas beach, in the Spanish mediterranean coast. Investigations were carried out to the surrounding coastal areas based in field investigations and laboratory analyses of the beaches materials.

Evaluation of Life Cycle Cost for Wave-dissipating Works Considering Occurrence Probability of High Waves

ABSTRACT Ota, T.; Kawamura, H.; Matsumi Y., and Hirayama, T., 2016. Evaluation of life cycle cost for wave-dissipating works considering occurrence probability of high waves. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 675–679. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. This study deals with the influences of occurrence frequency and the duration of high waves on estimation of life cycle cost (LCC) for wave-dissipating works that consist of wave-dissipating blocks using Monte Carlo simulation. LCC is defined as sum of an initial construction cost and an expected repair cost of wave-dissipating blocks. As analysis results of high waves at four observation stations in NOWPHAS, the occurrence frequency of high waves can be approximated by the Poisson distribution. In the computation of LCC, occurrence frequency of high waves is assumed as once a year or is determined by using the Poisson distribution for comparison. The duration of high waves is given in consideration of its statistical characteristics. The optimum size of block that minimizes LCC agrees in most cases regardless of the occurrence frequency and the duration of high waves, however, the variation in the total repair cost during the in-service period is different depending on the occurrence frequency.

EVALUATION SYSTEM FOR REFLECTION COEFFICIENT OF SEAWALL WITH DAMAGE OF ARMOR ON CROWN AND SLOPE

To introduce the performance design into the decision making problem of the repair or renewal of the damaged armor block on seawall, a performance evaluation system of seawall with the accumulative damage of armor is necessitated. In this study, numerical experiments and model tests are conducted to investigate the reflection coefficient of the seawall under condition of the damage progression of armor blocks on crown and slope of seawall. The regressive prediction properties between the reflection coefficient and the damage parameter could not be recognized from those results. The performance evaluation system is developed using a neural network system, which evaluates the causal relation of the reflection coefficient and the accumulative damage parameter. The neural network with a three-layer calibrated by the numerical experiments can predict the reflection coefficient of seawall under the damage progression of armor layer within about 10% errors.

21. STORM SURGE HINDCAST IN TOSA BAY OF JAPAN USING A COUPLED MODEL OF SURGE, WAVE AND TIDE

The storm surge residual of 2.35m was measured during Typhoon Anita in 1970 in the Tosa bay, Japan. Since the Tosa bay widely open to the Pacific Ocean, surge heights are usually small. The present study examined the reasons why the abnormal storm surge was generated due to Typhoon Anita 1970 by numerical simulations using a coupled model of surge, wave and tide with six levels computational domains of which grid sizes are from 12150m to 50m. The storm surge simulation driven by only wind and pressure fields was not able to compute the measured sea surface levels. However, when wave radiation stress terms were included in the storm surge model the computed sea surface levels showed a good agreement with the measurement data. This study clarified that the effect of wave-induced radiation stress is significant on water level rising of up to 0.5m-1.0m in the Tosa bay.