Z.L. Zou

Higher order Boussinesq equations

A new form of Boussinesq-type equations accurate to the third order are derived in this paper to improve the linear dispersion and nonlinearity characteristics in deeper water. Fourth spatial derivatives in the third order terms of the equations are transformed into second derivatives and present no difficulty in numerical computations. With the increase in accuracy of the equations, the nonlinear and dispersion characteristics of the equations are of one order of magnitude higher accuracy than those of the classical Boussinesq equations. The equations can serve as a fully nonlinear model for shallow water waves. The shoaling property of the equations is also of high accuracy through shallow water to deep water by introducing an extra source term into the second order continuity equation. An approach to increase the accuracy of the nonlinear characteristics of the new equations is introduced. The expression for the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities is a fourth order polynomial.

A new form of higher order Boussinesq equations

Abstract On the basis of the higher order Boussinesq equations derived by the author (1999), a new form of higher order Boussinesq equations is developed through replacing the depth-averaged velocity vector by a new velocity vector in the equations in order to increase the accuracy of the linear dispersion, shoaling property and nonlinear characteristics of the equations. The dispersion of the new equations is accurate to a [4/4] Pade expansion in kh. Compared to the previous higher order Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling property of the equations have higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water.

Modelling coastal water waves using a depth-integrated, non-hydrostatic model with shock-capturing ability

ABSTRACT This paper presents a depth-integrated, non-hydrostatic model for coastal water waves. The shock-capturing ability of this model is its most attractive aspect and is essential for computation of energetic breaking waves and wet–dry fronts. The model is solved in a fraction step manner, where the total pressure is decomposed into hydrostatic and non-hydrostatic parts. The hydrostatic pressure component is integrated explicitly in the framework of the finite volume method, whereas most of the existing models use the finite difference method. The fluxes across the cell faces are computed in a Godunov-based manner through an efficient multi-stage scheme. The flow variables are reconstructed at each cell face to obtain second-order spatial accuracy. Wave breaking is treated as a shock by locally switching off the non-hydrostatic pressure in the wave front. A moving shoreline boundary is also incorporated. The robustness and accuracy of the developed model are demonstrated through numerical tests.