Andrew Pomeroy

The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef

A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon. However, both the short waves and the infragravity waves were relatively small (both <0.3 m) on the reef flat owing to the shallow water depth (<2 m). The results revealed that the surf zone generation of free infragravity wave motions on the steep (?1:20) fore-reef slope was dominated by breakpoint forcing (as opposed to shoaling bound waves), which was also supported by detailed numerical simulations of the generation process. This is consistent with theory suggesting the efficiency of the breakpoint forcing mechanism should be high in this steep-slope regime. Shoreward propagating infragravity waves traveled across the reef but were damped by bottom friction dissipation; however, this was at a rate much smaller than experienced by the residual short waves. With these rates of frictional dissipation also strongly dependent on the water depth over the reef, the infragravity wave heights increased at higher water levels and hence were strongly modulated by the tide. Due to the strong dissipation of infragravity waves over this wide and shallow reef that is hydraulically rough, any seaward propagating infragravity waves that reflected at the shoreline were small, leading to the dominance of progressive (shoreward propagating) infragravity wave motions throughout the reef and lagoon.

Coral reef structural complexity provides important coastal protection from waves under rising sea levels

If coral reefs continue to degrade, waves on coastlines may substantially increase, leading to greater coastal erosion. Coral reefs are diverse ecosystems that support millions of people worldwide by providing coastal protection from waves. Climate change and human impacts are leading to degraded coral reefs and to rising sea levels, posing concerns for the protection of tropical coastal regions in the near future. We use a wave dissipation model calibrated with empirical wave data to calculate the future increase of back-reef wave height. We show that, in the near future, the structural complexity of coral reefs is more important than sea-level rise in determining the coastal protection provided by coral reefs from average waves. We also show that a significant increase in average wave heights could occur at present sea level if there is sustained degradation of benthic structural complexity. Our results highlight that maintaining the structural complexity of coral reefs is key to ensure coastal protection on tropical coastlines in the future.

Sediment transport in the presence of large reef bottom roughness

The presence of large bottom roughness, such as that formed by benthic organisms on coral reef flats, has important implications for the size, concentration, and transport of suspended sediment in coastal environments. A 3 week field study was conducted in approximately 1.5 m water depth on the reef flat at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, to quantify the cross-reef hydrodynamics and suspended sediment dynamics over the large bottom roughness (∼20–40 cm) at the site. A logarithmic mean current profile consistently developed above the height of the roughness; however, the flow was substantially reduced below the height of the roughness (canopy region). Shear velocities inferred from the logarithmic profile and Reynolds stresses measured at the top of the roughness, which are traditionally used in predictive sediment transport formulations, were similar but much larger than that required to suspend the relatively coarse sediment present at the bed. Importantly, these stresses did not represent the stresses imparted on the sediment measured in suspension and are therefore not relevant to the description of suspended sediment transport in systems with large bottom roughness. Estimates of the bed shear stresses that accounted for the reduced near-bed flow in the presence of large roughness vastly improved the relationship between the predicted and observed grain sizes that were in suspension. Thus, the impact of roughness, not only on the overlying flow but also on bed stresses, must be accounted for to accurately estimate suspended sediment transport in regions with large bottom roughness, a common feature of many shallow coastal ecosystems.

Spatial Variability of Sediment Transport Processes Over Intratidal and Subtidal Timescales Within a Fringing Coral Reef System

Sediment produced on fringing coral reefs that is transported along the bed or in suspension affects ecological reef communities as well as the morphological development of the reef, lagoon, and adjacent shoreline. This study quantified the physical process contribution and relative importance of sea-swell waves, infragravity waves, and mean currents to the spatial and temporal variability of sediment in suspension. Estimates of bed shear stresses demonstrate that sea-swell waves are the key driver of the suspended sediment concentration (SSC) variability spatially (reef flat, lagoon, and channels) but cannot fully describe the SSC variability alone. The comparatively small but statistically significant contribution to the bed shear stress by infragravity waves and currents, along with the spatial availability of sediment of a suitable size and volume, is also important. Although intratidal variability in SSC occurs in the different reef zones, the majority of the variability occurs over longer slowly varying (subtidal) timescales, which is related to the arrival of large swell waves at a reef location. The predominant flow pathway, which can transport suspended sediment, consists of cross-reef flow across the reef flat that diverges in the lagoon and returns offshore through channels. This pathway is primarily due to subtidal variations in wave-driven flows but can also be driven alongshore by wind stresses when the incident waves are small. Higher frequency (intratidal) current variability also occurs due to both tidal flows and variations in the water depth that influence wave transmission across the reef and wave-driven currents.

Mechanics of sediment suspension and transport within a fringing reef

Large bottom roughness is a characteristic of most coral reef environments and this has been shown to have a substantial impact on hydrodynamic processes in these environments. In this paper, we evaluate suspended sediment concentration (SSC) data as well detailed hydrodynamic data over a coral reef flat in Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, to understand how this bottom roughness affects these processes. A well-developed logarithmic velocity layer consistently developed above a canopy layer during the experiment. Estimates of bottom stresses from these logarithmic profiles were comparable with estimates obtained directly from turbulent Reynolds stresses, and an order of magnitude greater than those typically reported for sandy beach environments having similar flow. Nevertheless, the sediment grain size distribution of the suspended load was very fine relative to what should be mobilized by these stresses, indicated the large roughness substantially suppressed sediment transport.