Anthony Vincent Rawlings

Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of ageing and the seasons

Stratum corneum lipids play a predominant role in maintaining the water barrier of the skin. In order to understand the biological variation in the levels and composition of ceramides, ceramide 1 subtypes, cholesterol and fatty acids, stratum corneum lipids collected from tape strippings from three body sites (face, hand, leg) of female Caucasians of different age groups were analysed. In addition, we studied the influence of seasonal variation on the lipid composition of stratum corneum from the same body sites. The main lipid species were quantified using high-performance thin-layer chromatography and individual fatty acids using gas chromatography. Our findings demonstrated significantly decreased levels of all major lipid species, in particular ceramides, with increasing age. Similarly, the stratum corneum lipid levels of all the body sites examined were dramatically depleted in winter compared with spring and summer. The relative levels of ceramide 1 linoleate were also depleted in winter and in aged skin whereas ceramide 1 oleate levels increased. The other fatty acid levels remained fairly constant with both season and age, apart from lignoceric and heptadecanoic acid which showed a decrease in winter compared with summer. The decrease in the mass levels of intercellular lipids and the altered ratios of fatty acids esterified to ceramide 1, are likely to contribute to the increased susceptibility of aged skin to perturbation of barrier function and xerosis, particularly during the winter months.

Broad specificity alkaline proteases efficiently reduce the visual scaling associated with soap-induced xerosis.

Abstract In xerotic skin, the proteolysis of desmosomes is reduced leading to the accumulation of corneocytes on the surface of the skin. The effect of proteases applied topically to soap-induced xerotic skin was evaluated using a five-point visual scale. The visual scaling associated with soap-induced xerosis could be ameliorated by the topical application of exogenous protease. Bovine pancreatic chymotrypsin, papain, and a bacterial protease from Bacillus licheniformis were all capable of facilitating the reduction in visual scaling in a short time. Alcalase and Optimase, both broad specificity alkaline bacterial proteases, were the most weight-efficient at delivering this clinical effect. The reduction in scaling could be achieved either by occluded application of an aqueous enzyme solution or by a two-step unoccluded application first of an aqueous enzyme solution followed by a commercial moisturizer. Morphological and immunological analysis of bacterial enzyme-treated skin revealed that topically applied protease specifically induced the degradation of the desmosomes thereby promoting desquamation. These results indicate that topical application of protease can significantly and rapidly reduce the visual scaling associated with soap-induced xerosis by promoting desmosome degradation within the corneocyte clumps.