David Oulton

New Insights into Retail Space and Format Planning from Customer Tracking Data

Abstract Recording and understanding the behaviour of customers is paramount and a key factor influencing the success of any retail business. This paper reports the initial stages of an EPSRC funded research project, which presents a new methodological approach to analysing in-store customer behaviour with a view to optimising space and store performance. Using existing in-store CCTV cameras from a major clothing discount retailer, consumers are tracked to detect patterns of behaviour. Analysis of these “real-time” data exhibited flaws in the arrangement of customer service facilities, and insight into the problems associated with merchandise return policies. Understanding these customer processes and movement patterns thus helped the retail collaborator maximise the performance of the store.

Colour Specification at the Design to Production Interface

This paper describes how the communication of colour specifications between designers and technical production personnel has been improved using calibrated colour and digital networking. The electronic colour communication system known as “Imagemaster”™ is described in which both colour and texture are quantified by calibrated variables. Colour is calibrated by reference to CIE colour co‐ordinates. Imagemaster also uses and if necessary generates a reflectance curve for each object on the screen for use as a production colour specification. A novel colorimetric model of textile textures based on image content is described, which can be used to predict the independent effect of texture as a distinct component of overall colour appearance. Close electronic collaboration between all those contributing to design, product development and production is described. Savings in the complexity, cost and lead‐time for achieving correct colour and technical specifications are reported.

False Twisting of a Staple Yarn in a Potential Dyeing Process

A previously developed, environmentally friendly method of continuous dyeing of filament polyester yarn used technology based on the Fibre-M constant bulk texturing system. This paper describes some progress towards modifying aspects of this technology to facilitate processing of staple yarns as a precursor to developing a dyeing process for staple yarn based on the technology. Originally, the high-pressure steam input to the system caused instant breakages in staple yarns. However, by the introduction of a false-twist jet, modest running times have been achieved. The next step is to apply the new technology in an actual dyeing process.

Inter-observer agreement on visual colour matches and the role of metamerism as a cause of disagreement

SummariesThe phenomenon is investigated, of ‘Observer Metamerism’ (one illuminant, two differing observers), as distinct from Illuminant Metamerism (one observer and two differing light sources). Difference in colour perception is quantified by the CIE Colour Matching Functions or CMFs which map response with respect to wavelength. The size of potential mismatches is quantified using calculations which compare co-ordinates, derived from the CMFs of 10 individual observers, with co-ordinates derived from the Standard Observer CMFs as a constant reference. The individual CMFs used are those of 10 of the observers whose colour matching responses were used in the 1964 Supplementary Standard Observer average. The colour-inconstancy results found on change of observer, suggest a level of observer-metameric effects that is likely to affect visual matching judgements by a high proportion of individual observers. The data suggest that, in practical situations, two individuals are likely to disagree on both the magnitude and direction of visible colour difference in metameric matches, and individual observers may also dispute the presence or absence of a visible metameric difference in many sample pair comparisons.RésuméOn étudie le phénomène de “métamérisme de l’observateur” (une source lumineuse, deux observateurs différents) par opposition à “métamérisme de la source lumineuse” (un observatuer, deux sources lumineuses différentes). Une différence en la perception de couleur est déterminée quantitivement par les CIE Colour Matching Functions ou CMFs, qui tracent la réponse a l’egard de la longueur d’onde. Le taux de fausses concordances de couleur est determiné quantitivement en se servant des calculs qui mettent en comparaison les coordonnées provenant des CMFs de 10 observateurs individuels avec coordonnées provenant des CMFs du Standard Observer comme une référence constante. Les CMFs individuelles utilisées sont celles des 10 des observateurs dont les réponses en termes de concordance de couleur ont été utilisées dans la 1964 Supplementary Standard Observer moyenne. Les résultats à l’égard de la inconstance de perception de couleur que l’on trouve en changeant de l’observateur, suggèrent dans la pratique un niveau d’effets observateur-métamériques qui ont probablement un effet sur les jugements concernant la concordance visuelle de couleur par une proportion importante et la direction de différence visuelle en couleur en les concordances de couleur métamériques et les observateurs individuels se peuvent également disputer la présence et l’absence d’une visible différence métamérique en plusieures comparaisons jumelles à titre d’échantillon.ZusammenfassungDas Phänomen der “Beobachtermetamerie” (eine Lichtquelle, zwei verschiedene Beobachter) im Gegensatz der “Lichtquellemetamerien” (ein Beobachter und zwei verschiedene Lichtquelle) laßt sich untersuchen. Ein Unterschied in Farbwahrnehmung wird durch die CIE Colour Matching Functions oder CMFs, die Empfindlichkeit bezüglich der Wellenlänge vermessen, quantifiziert. Das Ausmaß der potentiellen Fehlanpassungen wird bei Benutzung, die sich Koordinaten von die CMFs berichtet von 10 einzelnen Beobachter mit Koordinaten berichtet von den Standard Observer CMFs als konstante Bezugspunkt vergleichen, quantifiziert. Die angewandten einzelnen CMFs sind diejenigen der 10 diesen Beobachter derer Farbgleichheitsantworten werden in dem 1964er Supplementary Standard Observer Durchschnitt gebraucht. Die Farbungbeständigkeitsresultaten gefunden beim Wechsel des Beobachters legt eine Stufe beobachter-metamerische Wirkungen, das wahrscheinlich ist sich auszuwirken auf die Abmusterungsurteile eines höhen Verhältnisses der einzelnen Beobachter nahe. Die Daten bringen, daß bei praktischen Situationen zwei Einzelpersonen werden wahrscheinlich nicht überzueinstimmen in bezug auf die Größe und Richtung des visuellen Farbstands in metamerischen Abmusterungen und auch einzelne Beobechter könnten die Anwesenheit oder Abwesenheit eines visuellen Metamerischabstands bei vielen Musterpaarvergleichungen streiten.

Predicting the Future: An Overview of the Colour Forecasting Industry

Colour is so constantly in evidence in our lives that we are inclined to give it almost no conscious attention.’ (Guptill, 1980) Colour influences all aspects of our lives, from the food we eat and the clothes we wear to the environment in which we work (Duncker, 1939). The colour of an item of apparel worn by someone has an impact on how they are perceived by others and how they perceive themselves. This means that consumers are extremely sensitive to colour when choosing apparel goods. There are several factors that influence colour choice, and while tradition and convention may for certain items dictate a restricted and well-understood colour palette, there are other items where there is considerably more scope for colour choice. This presents those with responsibility for merchandising decisions with a series of opportunities with regard to colour. There are however important implications for those making colour decisions. Choose colours that do not sell and the cost can be considerable with stocks of unsold garments on the shelves and purchases missed. The penalties for getting a colour range out of balance, or plain wrong can include loss of sales, profit and market share. Selecting the wrong brightness or chroma for a product may lead to losing market share to competitors who have achieved the correct balance of colours. This paper aims to contribute towards a greater understanding of colour decision-making by considering some of the factors that influence colour selection decisions, looking at the services that are available to those making decisions about colour and analysing the processes involved in colour decision-making. An attempt will also be made to develop a strategic framework to assist in the management of colour selection.

Modelling colour properties for textiles

Abstract: This chapter provides an overview of how computer network systems can be used to quantify, analyse and share information about colour. A comprehensive case study of the use of virtual products in colour communication is presented and some commercially available software products in this field are identified and assessed. The relevant computer models for the creative, commercial and technical aspects of colour communication are discussed in depth and existing standardised models such as the CIE system are reviewed. Sufficient detailed guidance is given to enable the development of appropriate models for describing and visualising colour, and for calibrating the colour reproduction characteristics of computer systems.