Margaret Bruce

Lean or agile: A solution for supply chain management in the textiles and clothing industry?

The textiles and apparel industry has been neglected in terms of supply chain management research. Recently, the industry has undergone a great deal of change, particularly with global sourcing and high levels of price competition. In addition, textiles and clothing has market characteristics, such as short product lifecycle, high volatility, low predictability, and a high level of impulse purchase, making such issues as quick response of paramount importance. This article discusses characteristics of the textiles and apparel industry and identifies the perspectives of lean, agile and leagility (a combination of these) within existing supply chain literature, which have been proffered as solutions to achieving quick response and reduced lead times. Through case studies of textile and apparel companies, different approaches to supply chain management are illustrated.

Buyer behaviour for fast fashion

Purpose – This paper seeks to address the complex nature of fast fashion buying through case studies with a supermarket, department store and own brand label. The phenomenon of fast fashion raises questions about traditional approaches to sourcing and buying, which are addressed here.Design/methodology/approach – Case studies were compiled with companies managing fast fashion, alongside other purchase and retail activities, namely a supermarket, department store and specialist fashion chain.Findings – Reveals the buying practices for fast fashion, namely, a combination of global and local suppliers, a leagile approach is typical; trust is an important factor in the supplier‐retailer relationship to ensure fast delivery at an agreed quality; and integration of key internal activities and processes to facilitate the speed of buying decisions that may be required.Originality/value – Gives insight into the factors affecting buying behaviour for fast fashion.

Effective Design Management for Small Businesses

Abstract How small firms invest in design expertise to develop new products and corporate identities to communicate their services is little understood. The research reported here documented the ways in which small manufacturing and service companies use professional design skills and their approaches to managing product, engineering and graphic design. Many firms are wary about the potential cost of employing professional designers and are unsure about the commercial outcome of design investment. Thus, a need exists to enhance design awareness amongst small firms. Those firms that employed design effectively found that design contributed to their business success. However, expertise in sourcing, briefing, liaising and evaluating design were varied and so training small companies in design management skills is needed also.

Complexities of collaborative product development

Abstract The complexity, shorter lead times and high costs of product development have lent momentum to collaborative ventures. So much so that part of the ‘received wisdom’ of information and communication technology (ICT) suppliers is that collaboration is the preferred route for product development. In this paper, it is argued that the alleged benefits of collaboration may not always be achieved in practice and consequently it is important to pay attention to managerial and other factors that may influence the outcome of collaborative product development.

A case study exploring the packaging design management process within a UK food retailer

Food retailers invest heavily in design expertise to create exciting packaging to entice customers to buy premium food products, and to strengthen their competitive edge. The process by which food retailers manage food packaging design has not been documented and this is an oversight in the design management and retailing literatures that this paper addresses. An in‐depth case study of one of the top four UK retailers is presented and their approach pack design management is analysed and discussed. The process outlined here was in place in 1997 at a time when the retailer had just moved from number three in the market place to number two and was aiming to be number one. The process documented is that of a dynamic growing food retailer working on improving its brand image through packaging design.

Managing external design professionals in the product development process

Abstract Outsourcing of design expertise is an increasingly common practice for UK companies. Approaches to managing external design expertise are wide ranging and rather ad hoc. In this paper, a taxonomy of different approaches to design management is delineated and issues raised by different approaches to design management are discussed. The nature of the relationship between design suppliers and buyers can vary from a long-term, close relationship to an arms-length and distanced relationship. The nature of this relationship is considered.

Design and marketing connections: creating added value

Marketing and design are interconnected. Innovative design opens up new markets and clever design rekindles interest in a mature market. Well-designed products communicate quality and value to the consumer. Logotypes, leaflets, packaging and signage provide visual cues to reinforce the values of the company to the customer. Advertising and promotional activity makes consumers aware of new products and gives a message to the consumer about the product and/or service available. However, little is known about design management processes and activities from a marketing perspective. The paper addresses this issue primarily through the use of detailed cases.

It's all in a relationship: a comparative study of client-design consultant relationships

A taxonomy of different types of client-design consultant relationships is delineated. Relationships that span a number of years and entail a high degree of rapport between client and design consultant are particularly beneficial. Such long-term relationships enable design professionals to gain a deep understanding of the clients business and they engender mutual respect and trust between the client and design professional, which facilitates the creation of effective design solutions. Long-term relationships are more evident in Denmark and Sweden, than in the UK.

Adding value: challenges for UK apparel supply chain management – a review

Apparel and textiles is a dynamic sector, subject to constant change. In the recent times, the industry has experienced structural changes, particularly with global sourcing and high levels of price competition. In addition, textiles and clothing are characterised by short product lifecycles, high volatility, low predictability and high levels of impulse purchase. The latest wave of change is that of the credit crunch and its impact on consumer behaviour. It seems that consumers are migrating away from high cost and luxury items, focussing on long-lasting classics and generally consuming less. This article outlines the key features of the textiles and apparel supply chain and identifies the perspectives of lean, agile and leagility (a combination of these) as solutions to achieving quick response, fast fashion and reduced lead times. A case study approach was adopted to understand how companies in the sector are combining both lean and agile to address market conditions.

Dangerous Liaisons: An Application of Supply Chain Modelling for Studying Innovation within the UK Clothing Industry

An empirical study into innovation supporting and blocking factors has been conducted of the strategic perceptions of stakeholders within the supply chain of a mature industry sector, based on interview analysis. The data revealed strategic intentions and assumptions that support the emergence of two distinct trajectories of change in the industry based on co-partnership and ad-hoc relationships respectively. A model of the trajectories using current partnership theories of lean supply indicated that the co-partnership trend offers some scope for incremental innovation; the ad-hoc relationship trend offered rather less scope for incremental innovation. Both trends seem to be reducing the scope for development of entrepreneurial networks within which independent design innovators can flourish. The strategic assumptions identified point to an environment that is not supportive of radical innovation. The absence of in-house R&D capabilities may be an important factor in the industrys difficulties in innovating.