Eulanda A. Sanders

Motivations for Participation in Knitting Among Young Women

The number of young women who knit has increased dramatically in the past ten years; however, there is little research focused on understanding young, female knitters. The purpose of this research was to examine the motivations of females 18 to 30 years of age, for participation in knitting. Uses and Gratifications Theory provided the theoretical framework for the study. Qualitative data were collected from 15 in-depth interviews. The interviews were analyzed with a constant comparative approach. Three major themes (incentives, barriers, and outcomes) and 12 subthemes emerged from the data. The emergent themes were compared to Uses and Gratifications Theory to determine the motivations for young women who participate in knitting. A Model of Motivations for Knitting among Young Women, was created to illustrate the relationship between the motivational themes that emerged from the data and categories within Uses and Gratifications Theory.

Female Slave Narratives and Appearance: Assimilation, Experience, and Escape

The purpose of this study was to explore how dress and appearance functioned for African American female slaves in published narratives. Research relevant to Black feminism, usefulness of slave narratives, and literature on African American slave appearance provided a foundation for this research. Data collection was conducted by using a hybrid narrative inquiry method consisting of thematic analysis and categorical-content analysis, to interpret 708 verbatim references to appearance. Analysis exposed that the data were partitioned into two discrete themes: (a) components reflective of Control and (b) components that revealed physical and psychological Emancipation. The stories of the women in these narratives provided descriptive information and an intersectional understanding of appearance in relation to social interactions in chattel environments. Appearance enabled telling these womens life stories as slaves through the processes of assimilating, experiencing and escaping. A matrix of female slave narrator lives and appearance emerged.

Attitudes and Purchase Intentions for Smart Clothing Examining U.S. Consumers’ Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic Needs for Solar-Powered Clothing

This research extends the technology acceptance model with apparel design attributes and examines factors influencing consumers’ attitudes and purchase intentions of smart clothing, specifically, solar-powered clothing. A random sample of college students and faculty (N = 720) participated in this study. Results from structural equation modeling reveal that perceived usefulness is the strongest predictor of attitude and purchase intention. Perceived compatibility is the strongest predictor of perceived usefulness, and along with perceived comfort, it determines perceptions of usefulness, ease of use, and performance risk. Perceived performance risk, aesthetic attributes, and environmental concern are significant predictors of attitude. This research validates the technology acceptance model in explaining new technology adoption in clothing and confirms the importance of multiple dimensions of smart clothing. Retailers can emphasize the shift from a technical concern to a user-centered one by highlighting utilitarian aspects of clothing and providing compatible and aesthetically appealing design features that interconnects functionality, expressiveness, and aesthetics (FEA) consumer needs.

Explore consumer needs and design purposes of smart clothing from designers’ perspectives

ABSTRACT From both users’ and creators’ perspectives, this study examined: (1) designer-users’ needs of smart clothing, (2) designer-identified consumer needs, (3) design purposes, and (4) the relationships among needs and design purposes. Fifteen participants were interviewed. Results indicated, first, users were most interested in affordable, fashionable, and enjoyable smart clothing. Second, designers believed the most important consumer needs were function, no technical problems, and affordability. Third, design purposes focused on function and solving technical problems. Fourth, two gaps existed: designers did not fully understand all consumer needs; although designers understood some needs, their design purposes did not always meet these needs. By investigating consumer needs from users who had purchasing experiences, this study provides a unique contribution to the scholarly literature. Findings identified gaps among user needs, designer-identified consumer needs, and design purposes, which will help industry and academia to develop more useful smart clothing.

Inequalities around fashioned bodies, style, and beauty: A seminar examining social injustices related to the apparel industry, discipline, and/or personal aesthetics

The seminar was centered around scholarship related to or addressing social justice or social justice issues in the apparel industry, our discipline, or personal and/or community aesthetics and styles. We focused on work examining underrepresented populations such as: (a) people of color, (b) the LGBTQ+ community, (c) people of a variety of abilities, and/or (d) other groups that have a history of oppression, discrimination, or power and privilege inequalities. The seminar had a non-traditional “arrangement” in the room with “exhibits” of scholarly work and “mini talks” from each presenter. Our goal was to initiate and encourage these discussions to go beyond the seminar session and for the participants to engage in dialogue at their home institutions and programs while building a network of people in the seminar to dialogue about in the future.

Innovative technology for apparel design studio: Integrating 3D virtual avatars in idea generation stage of design process

Innovative technology tools such as 3D virtual avatar modules (e.g., Optitex, Lectra, Gerber, and Marvelous Designer) provide new opportunities to enhance the apparel design process. Specifically, the modules allow students to creatively explore and customize body sizes and shapes that reflect their own target consumers. Thus, the purpose of this study is to introduce a teaching method for apparel design studios to integrate 3D virtual avatars into the design process. The presentation includes in-depth explanation on how to integrate 3D virtual avatar module to idea generation stage that have been traditional taught in apparel design studio. The significance of using this technology to customize figures in apparel design studio provides instructors and students with exciting tools to communicate and enhance design outcomes.

Efficacy of critiques in an apparel design studio

ABSTRACT Critique is a central feature in the discipline of apparel design and product development. Thus, this study examined student-generated responses regarding their learning experiences with three different critique methods: (a) group critique, (b) peer critique and (c) desk critique with instructor. A convenient sample of 40 students enrolled in an introductory design studio at a Midwest university participated in each critique session in the course of three projects throughout the semester. An online survey with closed and open-ended questions was conducted followed by each critique. Content analysis and descriptive statistics were conducted for data analysis. Results showed that students’ perceived learning experiences, work improved and motivation increased through critiques with honest feedback. The findings confirm the importance of both instructor-led and student-led critiques. Strategically, instructors can integrate the efficacy of each critique method into course projects, thus, incorporating activity theory into the curriculum.

Hanji, the Mulberry Paper Yarn, Rejuvenates Nature and the Sustainable Fashion Industry of Korea

Sustainable production and consumption in the fashion industry has become an imminent and crucial phenomenon globally. Adoption of natural fibers is an eco-design approach to accomplish sustainable product development capitalizing on environmentally conscious characteristics such as renewability and biodegradability. Therefore, several Korean textile companies (e.g., Ssang-Young, Oh-Sung) and textile research institutions (e.g., Korea Institute for Knit Industry) have led the development of Hanji yarn, a yarn made from cellulosic fibers of the inner bark of the mulberry paper trees (IBMP) using manufacturing processes adapted from traditional Korean paper production methods. The unique raw materials and novel production processes used to produce Hanji yarn has resulted in a textile product that can increase the aesthetics and functionality of apparel and products of other product categories. Fabrics created from Hanji yarn have been adopted by several global apparel companies, specifically within the activewear market. The success of Hanji yarn within the apparel and textile industry is a prime example of integrating sustainable materials and technology to promote green fashion in the global market.

Knowing Your Value for Academic Career Negotiations

Academic positions are highly competitive and rare in the field of Apparel and Textiles, especially in comparison to other disciplines such as science, engineering, and English. Negotiating for that position can be an overwhelming, yet an exciting part, of the application process. Many academicians, particularly women, have a difficult time knowing, communicating, and negotiating their respective personal value for a competitive salary, benefits, and start-up package that is commensurate to their research, industry and teaching experiences (Kjeldal, Rindfleish, & Sheridan, 2005; Wade, 2001). It is challenging to tactfully assure adequate compensation and positive perceptions related to the value of one’s professional work and experience.