Francois Millecamps

Ethylene formation from methionine as a method to evaluate oxygen free radical scavenging and metal inactivation by cosmetics.

It has been proposed that oxygen free radicals are involved in skin aging. This paper describes a new method for the evaluation of oxygen free radical scavenging by cosmetic products. It is based on the measurement, by gas chromatography, of ethylene produced during the oxidation of methionine by the hydroxyl radical. OH· is produced by an iron catalyzed superoxide‐driven Fenton reaction in which superoxide is obtained by photochemical oxygen reduction. The cosmetic is applied, together with methionine, riboflavine, NADH, FeCl3 and EDTA, on a glass microfibre filter and submitted to UVA exposure through a quartz cell. Ethylene is then measured from aliquots of the atmosphere inside the cell. Catalase or Desferal completely inhibits ethylene production. SOD or high concentrations of hydroxyl radical scavengers (Mannitol, DMSO etc.) afford a partial protection. Thus the efficiency of O2−·, H2O2 and OH· scavengers and iron chelators can be measured. The main advantage of this test is that it is performed in conditions which simulate skin during UV exposure (e.g. air and UV exposed thin layer). Furthermore, as it is non‐invasive, it can also be applied to human skin in vivo.