Gerardo Alvarez-Rivera

Determination of isothiazolinone preservatives in cosmetics and household products by matrix solid-phase dispersion followed by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry.

In this work, the development of a new efficient methodology applying, for the first time, matrix solid phase dispersion (MSPD) for the determination of sensitizer isothiazolinone biocides in cosmetics and household products - 2-methyl-3-isothiazolinone (MI), 5-chloro-2-methyl-3-isothiazolinone (CMI), 1,2-benzisothiazolinone (BzI) and 2-octyl-3-isothiazolinone (OI) - is described. The main factors affecting the MSPD extraction procedure, the dispersive phase and the elution solvent, are assessed and optimized through a multicategorical experimental design, using a real cosmetic sample. The most suitable extraction conditions comprise the use of 2g of florisil as dispersive phase and 5 mL of methanol as elution solvent. Subsequently, the extract is readily analyzed by HPLC-MS/MS without any further clean-up or concentration steps. Method performance was evaluated demonstrating to have a broad linear range (R(2)>0.9980) and limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) at the low nanogram per gram level, which are well below the required limits for UE regulation compliance. Satisfactory recoveries above 80%, except for MI (mean values close to 60%), were obtained. In all cases, the method precision (% RSD) was lower than 7%, making this low cost extraction method reliable for routine control. The validated methodology was finally applied to the analysis of a wide variety of cosmetics and household products. Most of the real samples analyzed have been shown to comply with the current European Cosmetic Regulation, although the results obtained for some rinse-off cosmetics (e.g. baby care products) revealed high isothiazolinone content.

Determination of suspected fragrance allergens in cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis

An effective low cost sample preparation methodology for the determination of regulated fragrance allergens in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics has been developed applying, for the first time, matrix solid-phase dispersion (MSPD) to this kind of analytes and samples. The selection of the most suitable extraction conditions was made using statistical tools such as ANOVA, as well as a factorial multifactor experimental design. These studies were carried out using real cosmetic samples. In the final conditions, 0.5 of sample, previously mixed with 1g of anhydrous Na(2)SO(4), were blended with 2g of dispersive sorbent (Florisil), and the MSPD column was eluted with 5 mL of hexane/acetone (1:1). The extract was then analyzed by GC-MS without any further clean-up or concentration step. Accuracy, precision, linearity and detection limits (LODs) were evaluated to assess the performance of the proposed method. Quantitative recoveries (>75%) were obtained and RSD values were lower than 10% in all cases. The quantification limits were well below those set by the international cosmetic regulations, making this multi-component analytical method suitable for routine control. In addition, the MSPD method can be implemented in any laboratory at low cost since it does not require special equipment. Finally, a wide variety of cosmetic products were analyzed. All the samples contained several of the target cosmetic ingredients, with and average number of seven. The total fragrance allergen content was in general quite high, even in baby care products, with values close to or up to 1%, for several samples, although the actual European Cosmetic Regulation was fulfilled.

Development of a multi-preservative method based on solid-phase microextraction–gas chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry for cosmetic analysis

A simple methodology based on solid-phase microextraction (SPME) followed by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) has been developed for the simultaneous analysis of different classes of preservatives including benzoates, bronidox, 2-phenoxyethanol, parabens, BHA, BHT and triclosan in cosmetic products. In situ acetylation and subsequent organic modifier addition have been successfully implemented in the SPME process as an effective extractive strategy for matrix effect compensation and chromatographic performance improvement. Main factors affecting SPME procedure such as fiber coating, sampling mode, extraction temperature and salt addition (NaCl) were evaluated by means of a 3×2(3-1) factorial experimental design. The optimal experimental conditions were established as follows: direct solid-phase microextraction (SPME) at 40°C and addition of NaCl (20%, w/v), using a DVB/CAR/PDMS fiber coating. Due to the complexity of the studied matrices, method performance was evaluated in a representative variety of both rinse-off and leave-on samples, demonstrating to have a broad linear range (R(2)>0.9964). In general, quantitative recoveries (>85% in most cases) and satisfactory precision (RSD<13% for most of compounds) were obtained, with limits of detection (LODs) well below the maximum authorized concentrations established by the European legislation. One of the most important achievements of this work was the use of external calibration with cosmetic-matched standards to accurately quantify the target analytes. The validated methodology was successfully applied to the analysis of different types of cosmetic formulations including body milks, moisturizing creams, deodorants, sunscreen, bath gel, dental cream and make-up products amongst others, demonstrating to be a reliable multi-preservative methododology for routine control.

Identification of unwanted photoproducts of cosmetic preservatives in personal care products under ultraviolet-light using solid-phase microextraction and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion ☆

The photochemical transformation of widely used cosmetic preservatives including benzoates, parabens, BHA, BHT and triclosan has been investigated in this work applying an innovative double-approach strategy: identification of transformation products in aqueous photodegradation experiments (UV-light, 254nm), followed by targeted screening analysis of such photoproducts in UV-irradiated cosmetic samples. Solid-phase microextraction (SPME) was applied, using different fiber coatings, in order to widen the range of detectable photoproducts in water, whereas UV-irradiated personal care products (PCPs) containing the target preservatives were extracted by micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (micro-MSPD). Both SPME and micro-MSPD-based methodologies were successfully optimized and validated. Degradation kinetics of parent species, and photoformation of their transformation by-products were monitored by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Thirty nine photoproducts were detected in aqueous photodegradation experiments, being tentatively identified based on their mass spectra. Transformation pathways between structurally related by-products, consistent with their kinetic behavior were postulated. The photoformation of unexpected photoproducts such as 2- and 4-hydroxybenzophenones, and 2,8-dichlorodibenzo-p-dioxin in PCPs are reported in this work for the first time.

Positive lists of cosmetic ingredients: Analytical methodology for regulatory and safety controls – A review

Cosmetic products placed on the market and their ingredients, must be safe under reasonable conditions of use, in accordance to the current legislation. Therefore, regulated and allowed chemical substances must meet the regulatory criteria to be used as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products, and adequate analytical methodology is needed to evaluate the degree of compliance. This article reviews the most recent methods (2005-2015) used for the extraction and the analytical determination of the ingredients included in the positive lists of the European Regulation of Cosmetic Products (EC 1223/2009): comprising colorants, preservatives and UV filters. It summarizes the analytical properties of the most relevant analytical methods along with the possibilities of fulfilment of the current regulatory issues. The cosmetic legislation is frequently being updated; consequently, the analytical methodology must be constantly revised and improved to meet safety requirements. The article highlights the most important advances in analytical methodology for cosmetics control, both in relation to the sample pretreatment and extraction and the different instrumental approaches developed to solve this challenge. Cosmetics are complex samples, and most of them require a sample pretreatment before analysis. In the last times, the research conducted covering this aspect, tended to the use of green extraction and microextraction techniques. Analytical methods were generally based on liquid chromatography with UV detection, and gas and liquid chromatographic techniques hyphenated with single or tandem mass spectrometry; but some interesting proposals based on electrophoresis have also been reported, together with some electroanalytical approaches. Regarding the number of ingredients considered for analytical control, single analyte methods have been proposed, although the most useful ones in the real life cosmetic analysis are the multianalyte approaches.

Identification of halogenated photoproducts generated after ultraviolet-irradiation of parabens and benzoates in water containing chlorine by solid-phase microextraction and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry.

This work presents a new solid-phase microextraction (SPME)-based approach to investigate the formation of halogenated by-products generated by the UV-induced photodegradation of parabens and their congener benzoates in water containing chlorine. Degradation of parent species, and further identification of their transformation by-products were monitored by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC/MS). In order to improve detectability, SPME was applied as a preconcentration step after UV-irradiation of target preservatives. Experiments performed with dechlorinated water, ultrapure water, and tap water showed that under UV-light, the presence of even low levels of free chlorine, increases the photodegradation rate of target preservatives, enhancing the formation of halogenated photoproducts. Monobrominated, dibrominated and bromochlorinated hydroxybenzoates were identified, and the transformation of benzoates into halogenated parabens was also confirmed. Bromination is expected to occur when free chlorine is present, due to the presence of traces of bromide in water samples. Five halogenated phenols (mainly brominated) were detected as breakdown photoproducts from both families of target preservatives. On the basis of the appearance of the aforementioned by-products, a tentative transformation pathway, consistent with the photoformation-photodecay kinetics of the by-products, is proposed herein for the first time.

Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin.

The stability and photochemical transformations of cosmetic preservatives in topical applications exposed to UV-light is a serious but poorly understood problem. In this study, a high throughput extraction and selective method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was validated and applied to investigate the photochemical transformation of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), as well as the antimicrobials triclosan (TCS) and phenyl benzoate (PhBz) in an artificial skin model. Two sets of photodegradation experiments were performed: (i) UV-Irradiation (8W, 254nm) of artificial skin directly spiked with the target preservatives, and (ii) UV-irradiation of artificial skin after the application of a cosmetic cream fortified with the target compounds. After irradiation, PLE was used to isolate the target preservatives and their transformation products. The follow-up of the photodegradation kinetics of the parent preservatives, the identification of the arising by-products, and the monitorization of their kinetic profiles was performed by GC-MS. The photochemical transformation of triclosan into 2,8-dichloro-dibenzo-p-dioxin (2,8-DCDD) and other dioxin-like photoproducts has been confirmed in this work. Furthermore, seven BHT photoproducts, and three benzophenones as PhBz by-products, have been also identified. These findings reveal the first evidences of cosmetic ingredients phototransformation into unwanted photoproducts on an artificial skin model.

A novel outlook on detecting microbial contamination in cosmetic products: analysis of biomarker volatile compounds by solid-phase microextraction gas chromatography-mass spectrometry

Cosmetic companies are required to control the optimal preservation of their commercial products, since microbial contamination in cosmetics represents an important risk for consumer health. Fast methods for cosmetic microbiological testing are of great industrial importance, facilitating the rapid release of products into the market. In this work, a novel approach based on microbial volatile organic compound (MVOC) analysis was proposed, for the first time, as an alternative method for the rapid detection of microbial contamination in cosmetics by SPME-GC/MS. Microbial volatiles from typical contaminants of cosmetic products were sampled above the headspace of standard cultures and from incubated samples. The volatile fraction analysis revealed, amongst other compounds, the presence of several odd-numbered carbon (C9–C15) methyl ketones and alkanols, which have been reported as characteristic compounds of bacterial origin. Some of them were found both in pure bacterial cultures and in the samples. However, other compounds not seen in cultures were seen in the cosmetics, suggesting that substrate is a very influential factor. These results also suggest that it could be clearly feasible to qualitatively identify viable microorganisms in cosmetics or even specific strains by detecting their volatile biomarkers, which would be a rewarding complement for other rapid methods. The results of the kinetic study performed on real samples further suggest the possibility of monitoring the contamination progress.

Preservatives in Cosmetics: Regulatory Aspects and Analytical Methods

Abstract Many cosmetic products have optimal conditions for microbial growth, including water, nutrients, pH and other factors. Most cosmetics contain water in high proportion and many of the ingredients used in their formulation may be degraded by microorganisms, which implies a risk for consumers. Preservatives are essential ingredients widely added to cosmetics and personal care products that are used daily, with the primary purpose of preventing spoilage from microbial growth. However, other substances such as antioxidants and light absorbers may also be added to protect cosmetics from undesirable oxidative processes and from photochemical degradation, respectively. In this chapter, an overview of the different types of preservative systems, as well as their new safety and regulatory aspects, is presented. Finally, analytical methodologies proposed since 2005 for quality control of preservatives in cosmetics are reviewed.

Simultaneous determination of preservatives and synthetic dyes in cosmetics by single-step vortex extraction and clean-up followed by liquid chromatography coupled to tandem mass spectrometry

A simple methodology based on vortex extraction (VE) followed by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) has been developed for the simultaneous analysis of 22 regulated preservatives and synthetic dyes in cosmetics. The extraction procedure was performed in an Eppendorf tube allowing both extraction and clean-up in a single step, reducing sample and reagents consumption, and resulting in an effective and quick extraction. The method exhibited good linearity (R2 ≥ 0.9918) and intra and inter-day precision (%RSD ≤ 13) with LOQs lower than 0.587 µg g-1 for preservatives and 3.437 µg g-1 for synthetic dyes. Quantitative recoveries were obtained at four concentration levels in the range 2-100 µg g-1 in the cosmetic matrices. The method was successfully applied to a broad range of cosmetics, including both leave-on and rinse-off products in which 13 of the target compounds could be quantified at concentrations ranging from 0.39 to 442 µg g-1 in the case of dyes, and from 1.89 to 1335 µg g-1 for the preservatives. It can be highlighted the presence of parabens in 24 out of the 35 analyzed samples at concentrations higher than 1000 µg g-1 in a toothpaste.