Ivana Špelić

The Volumetric Analysis of the Human Body as Starting Point for Clothing Pattern Design

The paper presents evaluation of the overall and microclimatic volume changes due to different upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel. The study was performed in order to evaluate the needed ease allowance added to chest and waist circumference for outerwear garments in order to fully achieve the wearing comfort. The accurate 3D body scanning was used and the impact of the upper limb position on microclimatic volume distribution was tested. The scanning data process was performed using a 3D laser scanner and a computer analysis. The raw scans were processed and reconstructed. After the scan reconstruction, the volume and the area were calculated. The experimental study covered the objective measuring methods: the material testing, the 3D scanning, the scan reverse engineering modelling and the volume/area calculation. The volume calculations included both the overall volume calculation for the unclothed torso and for the torso dressed in the chosen outerwear jacket. It also included the volume calculation of an air layer formed between second and third layered garments. The clothing ensemble CE 0 is the control variable, the unclothed body. The CE 1 is the clothing ensemble combined from the underlying basic garments (undershirt, underpants, classical male business shirt, and jeans) and combined with the bomber jacket. The three human subjects with the analogous body proportions (the height of 185 cm and chest girth of 100 cm) were scanned using the 3D laser body scanner Vitus Smart (Human Solutions GmbH) in an upright standing position according to ISO 20685:2010 changing only upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel.

The laboratory investigation of the clothing microclimatic layers in accordance with the volume quantification and qualification

Abstract Some of the researches expressed connection between the numbers and size of the microclimatic air layers on thermal insulation of clothing. The insulation of the ensembles is much affected by the air enclosed between the clothing layers. In loose fitting clothing, they are less subjected to compression and thus add more to the overall thermal insulation. The heat and the moisture are released from the body into the microclimatic layers, subsequently changing properties of the entrapped air. The volume of the microclimatic air layers was investigated by the use of non-contact 3D CAD method. The temperature and humidity changes of microclimatic layers were also observed. This paper represents layer by layer quantification of the clothing ensemble volume with jackets as covering garment and the impact of the microclimatic volume on the clothing insulation. The three-level laboratory testing was performed with human subjects dressed in selected ensembles.

Changes in Ensembles’ Thermal Insulation According to Garment’s Fit and Length Based on Athletic Figure

The purpose of this paper is to analyse the impact of design solutions on the thermal insulation of the garments and the ensembles. Previous studies investigated the microclimatic air gaps and volumes, however only under the first - and the second - layered clothing. Since none of the previous studies covered three - layered ensembles, in this study ensembles were accompanied by jackets of different fit and length to investigate the ensembles’ thermal insulation. Variants of bomber jacket differ in the amount of the ease allowance, while variants of the parka differ in length. The thermal insulation of the ensembles increased for 21.6 to 59.7 % when one of the jacket variants was added as the outerwear garment. A threshold volume, after which the thermal insulation will start to decrease due to convection, wasn’t determined for the outerwear third - layered garments nor was the impact of the length of the garment on the thermal insulation clearly stated. This study involved laboratory testing of garments and ensembles by 3D body scanning and thermal manikin measurements. To evaluate the volume of the microclimatic air volume the accurate 3D body scanning was used and the impact of the microclimatic volume on the ensemble’s insulation was tested. The thermal insulation for the selected outerwear garments and afterwards ensembles was measured by resting thermal manikin. Analysis of the results obtained from tests, showed that the garments’ fit and length can be used to model the overall thermal insulation of the ensembles. The ensembles insulation enlargement was measured for microclimatic volumes up to 33.57 dm3 (measured with ensembles accompanied with bomber jacket). The study proved that the limiting microclimatic volume is greater for three - layered clothing, than previously reported. The overall ensembles’ insulation increased simultaneously with the length enlargement (measured with ensembles accompanied with parka jacket). Findings will be of help in the future research on garments and ensembles thermal properties modelled through the design process and the construction.

Impact of hybrid system in polyester production

Abstract This study represents the evaluation of energy efficiency improvement using combination of natural gas, solar energy and flue gases heat recovery in polyester production. The analyzed energy sources are used for dry saturated steam generation. The energy consumption for combined system on location (φ = 45°49′) with collector field of 23.23 × 103 m2, was investigated. The hybrid system was calculated for four variants: (1) solarized process without flue gases heat recovery, (2) solarized processes with heat contend in flue gases using economizer, (3) solarized processes with heat contend in flue gases using an air preheater and (4) solarized processes with heat contend in flue gases using economizer and air preheater. The best method among presented sources is solution using economizer and the air preheater with natural gas, solar energy and flue gases heat recovery. The natural gas consumption is reduced for 67.82% which indicates that this solution is the optimal one. At the same time the volume of exhaust flue gases is diminished from 4947.1 to 1430.4 /h while simultaneously decreasing outlet temperature of 172.85°. Together with considerable energy savings, this hybrid system is sustainable and environmentally acceptable.