Maja Mahnic Naglic

The Volumetric Analysis of the Human Body as Starting Point for Clothing Pattern Design

The paper presents evaluation of the overall and microclimatic volume changes due to different upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel. The study was performed in order to evaluate the needed ease allowance added to chest and waist circumference for outerwear garments in order to fully achieve the wearing comfort. The accurate 3D body scanning was used and the impact of the upper limb position on microclimatic volume distribution was tested. The scanning data process was performed using a 3D laser scanner and a computer analysis. The raw scans were processed and reconstructed. After the scan reconstruction, the volume and the area were calculated. The experimental study covered the objective measuring methods: the material testing, the 3D scanning, the scan reverse engineering modelling and the volume/area calculation. The volume calculations included both the overall volume calculation for the unclothed torso and for the torso dressed in the chosen outerwear jacket. It also included the volume calculation of an air layer formed between second and third layered garments. The clothing ensemble CE 0 is the control variable, the unclothed body. The CE 1 is the clothing ensemble combined from the underlying basic garments (undershirt, underpants, classical male business shirt, and jeans) and combined with the bomber jacket. The three human subjects with the analogous body proportions (the height of 185 cm and chest girth of 100 cm) were scanned using the 3D laser body scanner Vitus Smart (Human Solutions GmbH) in an upright standing position according to ISO 20685:2010 changing only upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel.

Changes in Ensembles’ Thermal Insulation According to Garment’s Fit and Length Based on Athletic Figure

The purpose of this paper is to analyse the impact of design solutions on the thermal insulation of the garments and the ensembles. Previous studies investigated the microclimatic air gaps and volumes, however only under the first - and the second - layered clothing. Since none of the previous studies covered three - layered ensembles, in this study ensembles were accompanied by jackets of different fit and length to investigate the ensembles’ thermal insulation. Variants of bomber jacket differ in the amount of the ease allowance, while variants of the parka differ in length. The thermal insulation of the ensembles increased for 21.6 to 59.7 % when one of the jacket variants was added as the outerwear garment. A threshold volume, after which the thermal insulation will start to decrease due to convection, wasn’t determined for the outerwear third - layered garments nor was the impact of the length of the garment on the thermal insulation clearly stated. This study involved laboratory testing of garments and ensembles by 3D body scanning and thermal manikin measurements. To evaluate the volume of the microclimatic air volume the accurate 3D body scanning was used and the impact of the microclimatic volume on the ensemble’s insulation was tested. The thermal insulation for the selected outerwear garments and afterwards ensembles was measured by resting thermal manikin. Analysis of the results obtained from tests, showed that the garments’ fit and length can be used to model the overall thermal insulation of the ensembles. The ensembles insulation enlargement was measured for microclimatic volumes up to 33.57 dm3 (measured with ensembles accompanied with bomber jacket). The study proved that the limiting microclimatic volume is greater for three - layered clothing, than previously reported. The overall ensembles’ insulation increased simultaneously with the length enlargement (measured with ensembles accompanied with parka jacket). Findings will be of help in the future research on garments and ensembles thermal properties modelled through the design process and the construction.

A method for body posture classification of three- dimensional body models in the sagittal plane

The main purpose of this research was to develop a method for the classification of body posture types, using a three-dimensional body scanner and data on anthropometric measurement. A sample of 102 male test subjects, aged from 20 to 30 years, and without structural deformities of the locomotor system, were scanned. Anthropometric body measurement was performed and 16 measurements were selected to calculate upper and lower body curve angles as a set of posture indicators. The number of maximally different groups of test subjects was determined using k-means cluster analysis and factor analysis of established posture indicators. The sampling into three upper and three lower posture types showed the largest statistically significant differentiation, comparing the results of variance analysis between and within the obtained groups, which confirmed three main components extracted by factor analysis. Discriminant analysis used in order to determine differences between posture types showed which indicators are the most important when classifying test subjects belonging to a particular upper or lower posture type. Classification functions were defined based on discrimination functions and their factor loadings, and used to calculate a matrix of correctly classified test subjects. The classification matrix showed very high prediction possibility of established posture indicators and the proposed method for body posture classification.

Analysis of dynamics and fit of diving suits

Paper presents research on dynamical behaviour and fit analysis of customised diving suits. Diving suits models are developed using the 3D flattening method, which enables the construction of a garment model directly on the 3D computer body model and separation of discrete 3D surfaces as well as transformation into 2D cutting parts. 3D body scanning of male and female test subjects was performed with the purpose of body measurements analysis in static and dynamic postures and processed body models were used for construction and simulation of diving suits prototypes. All necessary parameters, for 3D simulation were applied on obtained cutting parts, as well as parameters values for mechanical properties of neoprene material. Developed computer diving suits prototypes were used for stretch analysis on areas relevant for body dimensional changes according to dynamic anthropometrics. Garment pressures against the body in static and dynamic conditions was also analysed. Garments patterns for which the computer prototype verification was conducted were used for real prototype production. Real prototypes were also used for stretch and pressure analysis in static and dynamic conditions. Based on the obtained results, correlation analysis between body changes in dynamic positions and dynamic stress, determined on computer and real prototypes, was performed.