J. van de Graaff

Intercomparison of research and practical sand transport models

A series of model intercomparisons, and model comparisons with field data, was carried out as part of the EU MASTIII SEDMOC Project (1998–2001). Initially, seven ‘research’ models were intercompared over a wide range of wave and current conditions, corresponding to both plane and rippled sand beds. These models included both one-dimensional vertical (1DV) formulations, varying in complexity from eddy viscosity and mixing length models to a full two-phase flow formulation, and also 2DV formulations capable of representing vortex shedding above sand ripples. The model results showed greatest convergence for cases involving plane beds, with predicted sand transport rates agreeing to well within an order of magnitude, and greatest divergence for cases involving rippled beds. A similar intercomparison involving (mainly) practical sand transport models, carried out over wide wave and current parameter ranges, also showed greatest variability in cases involving rippled beds. Finally, (mainly) practical models were compared with field data obtained at five contrasting field sites. The results showed that suspended sand concentrations in the bottom metre of the flow were predicted within a factor of 2 of the measured values in 13% to 48% of the cases considered, and within a factor of 10 in 70% to 83% of the cases, depending upon the model used. Estimates of the measured longshore component of suspended sand transport yielded agreement to within a factor of 2 in 22% to 66% of cases, and within a factor of 10 in 77% to 100% of cases. The results suggest that, at the present stage of research, considerable uncertainty should be expected if untuned models are used to make absolute predictions for field conditions. The availability of some measurements on site still appears to be a necessary requirement for high-accuracy sand transport predictions. However, for morphological modellers, the results may be viewed as more encouraging, since many of the present models exhibit agreement in their relative behaviour over wide ranges of wave and current conditions, which is a prerequisite to obtaining correct morphodynamic predictions.

Evaluation of sediment transport formulae in coastal engineering practice

Abstract The CERC formula can only be applied when fairly simple boundary conditions are satisfied. In practice, however, these conditions are often complicated and consequently other sediment transport formulae should be used. Due to the lack of reliable transport measurements in a vertical, a check at prototype conditions of such formulae is almost impossible at the moment and consequently the practical value of some proposed formulae is rather obscure. As a method of verification for the time being, comparative computations have been carried out with the CERC formula and the Bijker formula, the adapted Engelund-Hansen formula and the adapted (2 methods of adaptation) Ackers-White formula. As a result of this study the Bijker formula appeared to be better than the others.

Dune erosion during a storm surge

Abstract This is a description of some aspects of the phenomenon of dune erosion as experienced on the Dutch coast with primary attention to a recently executed series of model tests. The final results of these tests have turned out to be more favourable than the results obtained from former concepts. As details on the model tests can be found in the report on model investigation of the Delft Hydraulics Laboratory (1976), they are only briefly described in this paper.

2DH MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING OF SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS

Detailed studies have been undertaken to assist in the design of major extensions to the port of Haifa. Both numerical and physical model studies were done to optimise the mooring conditions vis a vis the harbour approach and entrance layout. The adopted layout deviates from the normal straight approach to the harbour entrance. This layout, together with suitable aids to navigation, was found to be nautically acceptable, and generally better with regard to mooring conditions, on the basis of extensive nautical design studies.Hwa-Lian Harbour is located at the north-eastern coast of Taiwan, where is relatively exposed to the threat of typhoon waves from the Pacific Ocean. In the summer season, harbour resonance caused by typhoon waves which generated at the eastern ocean of the Philippine. In order to obtain a better understanding of the existing problem and find out a feasible solution to improve harbour instability. Typhoon waves measurement, wave characteristics analysis, down-time evaluation for harbour operation, hydraulic model tests are carried out in this program. Under the action of typhoon waves, the wave spectra show that inside the harbors short period energy component has been damped by breakwater, but the long period energy increased by resonance hundred times. The hydraulic model test can reproduce the prototype phenomena successfully. The result of model tests indicate that by constructing a jetty at the harbour entrance or building a short groin at the corner of terminal #25, the long period wave height amplification agitated by typhoon waves can be eliminated about 50%. The width of harbour basin 800m is about one half of wave length in the basin for period 140sec which occurs the maximum wave amplification.Two-stage methodology of shoreline prediction for long coastal segments is presented in the study. About 30-km stretch of seaward coast of the Hel Peninsula was selected for the analysis. In 1st stage the shoreline evolution was assessed ignoring local effects of man-made structures. Those calculations allowed the identification of potentially eroding spots and the explanation of causes of erosion. In 2nd stage a 2-km eroding sub-segment of the Peninsula in the vicinity of existing harbour was thoroughly examined including local man-induced effects. The computations properly reproduced the shoreline evolution along this sub-segment over a long period between 1934 and 1997.In connection with the dredging and reclamation works at the Oresund Link Project between Denmark and Sweden carried out by the Contractor, Oresund Marine Joint Venture (OMJV), an intensive spill monitoring campaign has been performed in order to fulfil the environmental requirements set by the Danish and Swedish Authorities. Spill in this context is defined as the overall amount of suspended sediment originating from dredging and reclamation activities leaving the working zone. The maximum spill limit is set to 5% of the dredged material, which has to be monitored, analysed and calculated within 25% accuracy. Velocity data are measured by means of a broad band ADCP and turbidity data by four OBS probes (output in FTU). The FTUs are converted into sediment content in mg/1 by water samples. The analyses carried out, results in high acceptance levels for the conversion to be implemented as a linear relation which can be forced through the origin. Furthermore analyses verifies that the applied setup with a 4-point turbidity profile is a reasonable approximation to the true turbidity profile. Finally the maximum turbidity is on average located at a distance 30-40% from the seabed.

GRADING EFFECTS IN CONCENTRATION MEASUREMENTS

This report will update the coastal zone practitioner on the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) as it affects the implementation of manmade changes along the coastline. It is our intent to place in proper perspective this fast-changing and often difficult to interpret national program. Readers will achieve an overall understanding of the NFIP on the coast, and will be in a position to apply the programs requirements in their efforts. We will begin with a history of the application of the NFIP to the coastal zone. The history of the problems encountered will lead into current regulations, methodologies, and the changes the Federal Emergency Management Agency plans for the future.The spatial variability of the nearshore wave field is examined in terms of the coherence functions found between five closely spaced wave gages moored off the North Carolina coast in 17 meters depth. Coherence was found to rapidly decrease as the separation distance increased, particularly in the along-crest direction. This effect is expressed as nondimensional coherence contours which can be used to provide an estimate of the wave coherence expected between two spatial positions.Prediction of depositional patterns in estuaries is one of the primary concerns to coastal engineers planning major hydraulic works. For a well-mixed estuary where suspended load is the dominant transport mode, we propose to use the divergence of the distribution of the net suspended load to predict the depositional patterns. The method is applied to Hangzhou Bay, and the results agree well qualitatively with measured results while quantitatively they are also of the right order of magnitude.

EFFECTS OF WAVE GROUPINESS ON DUNE EROSION

A research version of Delft 3D is used to simulate dune erosion by wave group forcing. The first three hours of a dune erosion experiment in the Delta flume are simulated and compared with measured data from this experiment. The effect of wave groupiness on dune erosion is studied by comparing model results including wave group forcing with model results using a time-invariant wave forcing.

MAGNITUDE OF THE B-FACTOR UNDER WAVE ACTION

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.