J.A. Roelvink

Long‐term morphodynamic evolution of a tidal embayment using a two‐dimensional, process‐based model

[1] The research objective is to investigate long-term evolution of estuarine morphodynamics with special emphasis on the impact of pattern formation. Use is made of a two-dimensional (2-D), numerical, process-based model. The standard model configuration is a rectangular 80 km long and 2.5 km wide basin. Equilibrium conditions of the longitudinal profile are analyzed using the model in 1-D mode after 8000 years. Two-dimensional model results show two distinct timescales. The first timescale is related to pattern formation taking place within the first decades and followed by minor adaptation according to the second timescale of continuous deepening of the longitudinal profile during 1600 years. The resulting longitudinal profiles of the 1-D and 2-D runs are similar apart from small deviations near the mouth. The 2-D results correspond well to empirically derived relationships between the tidal prism and the channel cross section and between the tidal prism and the channel volume. Also, comparison between the current model results and data from the Western Scheldt estuary (in terms of bar length, hypsometry, percentage of intertidal area and values for the ratio of shoal volume and channel volume against the ratio of tidal amplitude and water depth) shows satisfying agreement. On the basis of the model results a relationship for a characteristic morphological wavelength was derived on the basis of the tidal excursion and the basin width and an exponentially varying function was suggested for describing a dimensionless hypsometric curve for the basin. Furthermore, special attention is given to an analysis of the numerical morphodynamic update scheme applied.

Long-term morphodynamic evolution and energy dissipation in a coastal plain, tidal embayment

The morphodynamic system in alluvial, coastal plain estuaries is complex and characterized by various timescales and spatial scales. The current research aims to investigate the interaction between these different scales as well as the estuarine morphodynamic evolution. Use is made of a process-based, numerical model describing 2-D shallow water equations and a straightforward formulation of the sediment transport and the bed level update. This was done for an embayment with a length of 80 km on a timescale of 3200 years, with and without bank erosion effects. Special emphasis is put on analyzing the results in terms of energy dissipation. Model results show that the basins under consideration evolve toward a state of less morphodynamic activity, which is reflected by (among others) relatively stable morphologic patterns and decreasing deepening and widening of the basins. Closer analysis of the tidal wave shows standing wave behavior with resonant characteristics. Under these conditions, results suggest that the basins aim for a balance between the effect of storage and the effect of fluctuating water level on wave celerity with a negligible effect of friction. Evaluating the model results in terms of energy dissipation reflects the major processes and their timescales (pattern formation, widening, and deepening). On the longer term the basin-wide energy dissipation decreases at a decreasingly lower rate and becomes more uniformly distributed along the basin. Analysis by an entropy-based approach suggests that the forced geometry of the configurations prevents the basins from evolving toward a most probable state.

Modeling the effect of wave‐vegetation interaction on wave setup

Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone attenuates wave energy and reduces the risk of coastal hazards, e.g., flooding. Besides the attenuation of sea-swell waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) waves and wave setup. To date, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG waves and wave setup is lacking, while they are potentially important parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the storm impact model XBeach is extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG waves, and wave setup effects in two modes: the sea-swell wave phase-resolving (nonhydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode, a wave shape model is implemented to capture the effect of nonlinear wave-vegetation interaction processes on wave setup. Both modeling modes are verified using data from two flume experiments with mimic vegetation and show good skill in computing the sea-swell and IG wave transformation, and wave setup. In surfbeat mode, the wave setup prediction greatly improves when using the wave shape model, while in nonhydrostatic mode (nonlinear) intrawave effects are directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model is used for a range of coastal geomorphological configurations by varying bed slope and vegetation extent. The results indicate that the effect of wave-vegetation interaction on wave setup may be relevant for a range of typical coastal geomorphological configurations (e.g., relatively steep to gentle slope coasts fronted by vegetation).