Jesper S. Damgaard

Intercomparison of research and practical sand transport models

A series of model intercomparisons, and model comparisons with field data, was carried out as part of the EU MASTIII SEDMOC Project (1998–2001). Initially, seven ‘research’ models were intercompared over a wide range of wave and current conditions, corresponding to both plane and rippled sand beds. These models included both one-dimensional vertical (1DV) formulations, varying in complexity from eddy viscosity and mixing length models to a full two-phase flow formulation, and also 2DV formulations capable of representing vortex shedding above sand ripples. The model results showed greatest convergence for cases involving plane beds, with predicted sand transport rates agreeing to well within an order of magnitude, and greatest divergence for cases involving rippled beds. A similar intercomparison involving (mainly) practical sand transport models, carried out over wide wave and current parameter ranges, also showed greatest variability in cases involving rippled beds. Finally, (mainly) practical models were compared with field data obtained at five contrasting field sites. The results showed that suspended sand concentrations in the bottom metre of the flow were predicted within a factor of 2 of the measured values in 13% to 48% of the cases considered, and within a factor of 10 in 70% to 83% of the cases, depending upon the model used. Estimates of the measured longshore component of suspended sand transport yielded agreement to within a factor of 2 in 22% to 66% of cases, and within a factor of 10 in 77% to 100% of cases. The results suggest that, at the present stage of research, considerable uncertainty should be expected if untuned models are used to make absolute predictions for field conditions. The availability of some measurements on site still appears to be a necessary requirement for high-accuracy sand transport predictions. However, for morphological modellers, the results may be viewed as more encouraging, since many of the present models exhibit agreement in their relative behaviour over wide ranges of wave and current conditions, which is a prerequisite to obtaining correct morphodynamic predictions.

Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth

The morphological evolution of a rip channel system due to normally incident waves has been investigated using two different approaches. The first approach is a state-of-the-art commercial 2DH Coastal Area model, whereas the second approach is a linear stability analysis. The results of the two different approaches have been compared and both models predict rip channel spacings and initial growth rates of similar magnitudes.

Experimental study of marine pipelines on unstable and liquefied seabed

Experimental investigation was carried out in a wave flume to study the stability of marine pipelines on mobile and liquefied seabed. A wide range of different pipeline specific gravities and wave condition were examined. The results showed that for the given soil the seabed response is governed mainly by liquefaction and the pipeline behaviour on unstable seabed is strongly dependent on its specific gravity.

LONGSHORE BED-LOAD TRANSPORT

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

A SLOPING DUCT FOR THE STUDY OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.