Richard Soulsby

Wave-current interaction within and outside the bottom boundary layer

Abstract This paper reviews the state-of-the-art as perceived by the Wave-Current Interaction (WCI) group which forms part of the MAST G6M Coastal Morphodynamics project, and includes some new results arising out of that project. Those processes which affect the vertical profiles of current and wave kinematics, and the bed shear-stresses, are discussed, but “horizontal” processes such as refraction of waves by currents, and generation of longshore currents, are not included. Among the groups conclusions are recommendations for the calculation of wave-induced bottom orbital velocities with and without WCI, and direct parameterisations of the bed shear-stresses produced by WCI. The latter is the results of a comprehensive intercomparison of WCI boundary-layer models and data. The results are aimed at aiding the formulation of numerical models of coastal morphodynamics.

Calculating bottom orbital velocity beneath waves

Abstract Methods are presented for calculating directly from a known wave height, period and water depth the orbital velocity produced at the sea bed by surface waves. Two curves are sufficient to allow the root-mean-square bottom orbital velocity to be calculated for wave-spectra having any one of the JONSWAP, Pierson-Moskowitz, Bretschneider, ISSC or ITTC forms. A third curve covers the monochromatic case. Other curves allow the ratio of the peak periods of bottom orbital velocity and surface elevation to be calculated for the above five spectral forms. Values are deduced for the height and period of the monochromatic wave which most closely matches the bottom orbital velocity obtained from a full spectral representation, optimised over water depths ranging from deep water to breaking.

LONGSHORE BED-LOAD TRANSPORT

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

The future role of experimental methods in European hydraulic research: towards a balanced methodology

Abstract Experiments in hydraulics are fundamental for creating the necessary tools for predictions of such important phenomena as flooding, coastal inundation, impact on water quality in rivers, estuaries, coastal and marine areas, exploitation of ocean-based resources, ship design and ice engineering. Over the years (second half of the last century) the balance shifted from an emphasis on experimental laboratory and field research to an emphasis on numerical modelling. Field experiments and experimental laboratory research are nevertheless indispensable to the synergetic approach of hydraulic research. Co-ordination and co-operation are needed on a European scale: real progress is only feasible through co-operation of similar facility providers and research groups, with the perspective to establish a series of virtual European laboratories dealing with hydraulics. The European co-operation sought for has got a promising start with the Infrastructure network HYDRALAB; realisation of a really effective co...

A SLOPING DUCT FOR THE STUDY OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.