João Paulo Pereira Marcicano

Non-occlusive knitted linen for atopic dermatitis wearer

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate the suitability of linen in garments for atopic dermatitis (AD) wearers. Design/methodology/approach In total, 60 garments were tested with four boys (five to eight years old): two with AD and two healthy kids using circular knitting occlusive structure (OS) 28-gauge and non-occlusive structure (NOS) 12-gauge with cotton, polyester staple and linen yarns. Air and water vapor permeability fabric results were analyzed using ANOVA method and occlusive levels correlated with thickness and UPF rates. Skin irritation levels were evaluated with Patient-Oriented SCORing Atopic Dermatitis (PO-SCORAD) self-assessment tool and for body temperature measurements infrared cameras were used. The authors standardized hygiene products; laundry procedures and soaps were previously identified and measured for their pH and skin irritation history with wearers. Findings Lower skinbody temperature (−2.6°C-−2.8°C) and PO-SCORAD values (16.1-22.8) during use by AD volunteers suggest promoting both wear tolerance (WT) and NOS preference. Air permeability of 3,222 l/m2s with NOS knitted linen as at least 48 percent higher than tested fibers indicating AD volunteers preference during hot climate (24°C to 37°C and 54 to 69 percent RH). Control healthy volunteers were less sensitive to NOS (−1.3°C-−1.6°C) and hot feeling polyester was detected in use. UPF confirms open loops of NOS (NOS UPF 10-5 vs OS UPF 25-15). Thickness (0.6 to 1.0 mm) and RET values (3.1-3.8) were both without significance for this study. Research limitations/implications Due to the experimental character of this study with a reduced group of two AD volunteers, wear test conclusion is limited to these specific boys. Work extension aiming at broad AD wears statistics significance should consider more volunteers. Practical implications The study provides specific answers to opening new possibilities for AD wear other than cotton or polyester, both fibers with more availability in the Brazilian garments retail industry that sometimes did not meet their routine needs. This study provides practical daily understanding of correlations of WT and air permeability level of NOS knitted applied to garments in direct contact with the skin in subtropical climates. Social implications Both academically and socially, the results can contribute to increasing information related to textile process and practical knowledge of knits to better accomplish AD clothing in subtropical climates. The practical wear test results with AD volunteers also indicate guidelines to parents who were having trouble identifying base layers, fundamental textiles and options for their kids in search of possible relief and well being mainly on hot days. Originality/value Circular knitting jersey linen study in direct contact with sensitive skin in a subtropical climate city like Sao Paulo is unique. The study also considered helping parents of a six-year-old AD boy in attendance to a doctor’s suggestion to find better options of clothings to be used during his daily routines.

Influence of yarn tension variations before the positive feed on the characteristics of knitted fabrics

In recent years, there has been a substantial increase in the production of knitted fabrics with textured synthetic yarns in circular knitting machines. However, there are few studies for this type of yarn on the effects of variations in tension on circular knitting machines. In this work, we examine the variation in yarn tension before the positive feed and analyze its influence on the properties and quality of knitted fabrics produced with spun yarn and textured synthetic yarn. Knitted fabrics were produced with spun cotton yarn and textured microfiber nylon yarn (polyamide), which were analyzed with respect to loop length. The results demonstrate the importance of controlling the yarn feed tension when working with textured yarns, even with the use of a positive feed, in contrast to what occurs when spun yarn is used.

Organic cotton, lyocell and SPF: a comparative study

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present a comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics used in the manufacturing of apparel, which are produced from organic cotton, lyocell and soybean protein fiber (SPF). It is important for both the environment and society that textile industry continues to adopt more ecofriendly materials and furthermore, pushes to increase awareness regarding these material choices available to the consumer and the corresponding impacts of consumers’ decisions. The use of sustainable fibers may be a starting point for changing the industrial paradigm of the textile industry. Design/methodology/approach – The research presented herein analyzes the potential use of three raw materials used in the development of knitted fabrics: organic cotton, lyocell and SPF. The experimental trials, based on norms, determined the weight, pilling, rupture pressure resistance, absorption by capillarity, dimensional alteration and elasticity. The significance of the experimental ...

Comparative Study of the Characteristics of Knitted Fabrics Produced from Recycled Fibres Employing the Chauvenet Criterion, Factorial Design and Statistical Analysis

19 Sanches RA, Takamune KM, Guimarães BM, Seawright Alonso R, Karam Jr D, Marcicano JPP, Sato Duarte AY, Dedini FG. Comparative Study of the Characteristics of Knitted Fabrics Produced from Recycled Fibres Employing the Chauvenet Criterion, Factorial Design and Statistical Analysis. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2015; 23, 4(112): 19-24. DOI: 10.5604/12303666.1152716 Comparative Study of the Characteristics of Knitted Fabrics Produced from Recycled Fibres Employing the Chauvenet Criterion, Factorial Design and Statistical Analysis Regina Aparecida Sanches, Karina Mitie Takamune, Bárbara Maria Guimarães, Raquel Seawright Alonso, Dib Karam Jr, João Paulo Pereira Marcicano, a)*Adriana Yumi Sato Duarte, *Franco Giuseppe Dedini

Pesquisas em design, gestão e tecnologia de têxtil e moda

Enfatiza a iniciativa da Universidade de Sao Paulo (USP), por meio da Escola de Artes, Ciencias e Humanidades, de lancar a colecao de livros intitulada “Pesquisas em Design, Gestao e Tecnologia de Textil e Moda”. A obra, divulga os conteudos e estudos dos programas de pos-graduacao das universidades paulistas, vai ao encontro do objetivo de dar conhecimento a sociedade dos melhores trabalhos academicos realizados na area. Dessa maneira, propicia maior integracao e amplia a sinergia entre academia e o mundo empresarial.

Adquirindo Métricas e Indicadores de performance a partir de Postos de Trabalho

Este trabalho e resultante de uma entrevista realizada numa empresa, de pequeno porte, do segmento textil, de confeccao de moda feminina, com o intuito de levantar dados para analises posteriores. Aqui sao apresentados os dados gerais, obtidos nesta empresa. Propos-se a identificar uma ferramenta ideal que pudesse desenhar os processos existentes identificados e mapeados da empresa. Identificou-se, entao, a BPMN, e junto com o software BizAgi Process Modeler Copyright©BizAgi Ltd 2011, obteve-se uma forma de apresentar desenhos destes processos. Este trabalho mostra, de uma maneira geral, como e possivel gerar indicadores de desempenho a partir de metricas adquiridas nos postos de trabalho, por meio de controles simples e bem estruturados. Este estudo faz parte de um trabalho destinado ao relatorio final para a disciplina de gerenciamento e simulacao de processos de confeccao textil da EACH/USP, sob a supervisao da professora doutora Isabel Italiano.

Reliability concepts applied to manufacturing processes planning

We present a reliability analysis of a precision drilling process used in the manufacturing of aircraft structural components. After a brief introduction to the precision drilling manufacturing process, a reliability analysis is executed through the application of the FMEA technique, defining the process main failures and their consequences to the manufactured part. The statistical process control capability indices are proposed as estimates of the process failure rate. To evaluate the process failure rate and capability an experimental study is developed with test specimens. Based on the test results, the drilling procedure for aluminum is accepted and the procedure for titanium is rejected