Kevin A. Haas

Quasi-three-dimensional modeling of rip current systems

[1] The focus of the paper is the analysis of the flow in rip current systems generated by channels in longshore bars on a beach. The horizontal variations of rip current systems are described through the use of the quasi-three-dimensional nearshore circulation model SHORECIRC. Model predictions are compared to laboratory measurements of waves and current velocities throughout the entire rip current system and show reasonable agreement. The rips in the two channels are found to behave differently because of the depth variation across the basin. It is found that higher bottom stress leads to more stable flow where the rip current meanders less and fewer eddies are generated. The wave current interaction creates forcing which reduces the distance rip currents flow offshore and can lead to a slow pulsation of the rip current. This pulsation is in addition to the instabilities of a jet which can also be present in rip currents. The three dimensionality of the rip current system is found to have a significant effect on the overall circulation patterns. INDEX TERMS: 4255 Oceanography: General: Numerical modeling; 4512 Oceanography: Physical: Currents; 4546 Oceanography: Physical: Nearshore processes; KEYWORDS: rip currents, nearshore circulation, numerical modeling, waves

Assessment of Energy Production Potential from Tidal Streams in the United States

Tidal stream energy is one of the alternative energy sources that are renewable and clean. With the constantly increasing effort in promoting alternative energy, tidal streams have become one of the more promising energy sources due to their continuous, predictable and spatially-concentrated characteristics. However, the present lack of a full spatial-temporal assessment of tidal currents for the U.S. coastline down to the scale of individual devices is a barrier to the comprehensive development of tidal current energy technology. This project created a national database of tidal stream energy potential, as well as a GIS tool usable by industry in order to accelerate the market for tidal energy conversion technology. Tidal currents are numerically modeled with the Regional Ocean Modeling System and calibrated with the available measurements of tidal current speed and water level surface. The performance of the model in predicting the tidal currents and water levels is assessed with an independent validation. The geodatabase is published at a public domain via a spatial database engine and interactive tools to select, query and download the data are provided. Regions with the maximum of the average kinetic power density larger than 500 W/m2 (corresponding to a current speed of ~1 m/s), surface area larger than 0.5 km2 and depth larger than 5 m are defined as hotspots and list of hotspots along the USA coast is documented. The results of the regional assessment show that the state of Alaska (AK) contains the largest number of locations with considerably high kinetic power density, and is followed by, Maine (ME), Washington (WA), Oregon (OR), California (CA), New Hampshire (NH), Massachusetts (MA), New York (NY), New Jersey (NJ), North and South Carolina (NC, SC), Georgia (GA), and Florida (FL). The average tidal stream power density at some of these locations can be larger than 8 kW/m2 with surface areas on the order of few hundred kilometers squared, and depths larger than 100 meters. The Cook Inlet in AK is found to have a substantially large tidal stream power density sustained over a very large area.

Process Based Modeling of Total Longshore Sediment Transport

Abstract Waves, currents, and longshore sand transport are calculated locally as a function of position in the nearshore region using process based numerical models. The resultant longshore sand transport is then integrated across the nearshore to provide predictions of the total longshore transport of sand due to waves and longshore currents. Model results are in close agreement with the Il–Pl correlation described by Komar and Inman (1970) and the CERC (1984) formula. Model results also indicate that the proportionality constant in the Il–Pl formula depends weakly upon the sediment size, the shape of the beach profile, and the particular local sediment flux formula that is employed. Model results indicate that the various effects and influences of sediment size tend to cancel out, resulting in little overall dependence on sediment size.

Theoretical Assessment of Ocean Current Energy Potential for the Gulf Stream System

The Gulf Stream system features some of the fastest and most persistent currents in the Atlantic Ocean and has long been identified as a promising target for renewable ocean current energy. This study investigates the theoretical energy potential of ocean currents for the Gulf Stream system. A simplified analytical model is calibrated and utilized to represent the quasi-geostrophic balance in the North Atlantic subtropical circulation. The effect of turbines is included in the model as additional turbine drag force. The energy equation in the system is derived and analyzed both locally and basin-wide. Basin-wide, energy production from surface wind stress is balanced by energy dissipation from natural friction and turbines. However, the pressure gradient is playing an important role in redistributing the energy in the local energy balance. It is found that increasing turbine drag does not necessarily increase total energy dissipation from turbines. The maximum energy dissipation by turbines is estimated to be approximately 44 GW, although electrical power output will be significantly reduced due to various engineering and technological constraints. The turbine drag has significant impact on the circulation system. The reduction of energy and volume fluxes in the circulation is featured for different levels of turbine drag. It is found that residual energy flux along the western boundary can be significantly reduced under the peak energy dissipation by turbines, while reduction of volume flux is less extreme.

A wetting and drying scheme for ROMS

The processes of wetting and drying have many important physical and biological impacts on shallow water systems. Inundation and dewatering effects on coastal mud flats and beaches occur on various time scales ranging from storm surge, periodic rise and fall of the tide, to infragravity wave motions. To correctly simulate these physical processes with a numerical model requires the capability of the computational cells to become inundated and dewatered. In this paper, we describe a method for wetting and drying based on an approach consistent with a cell-face blocking algorithm. The method allows water to always flow into any cell, but prevents outflow from a cell when the total depth in that cell is less than a user defined critical value. We describe the method, the implementation into the three-dimensional Regional Oceanographic Modeling System (ROMS), and exhibit the new capability under three scenarios: an analytical expression for shallow water flows, a dam break test case, and a realistic application to part of a wetland area along the Georgia Coast, USA.

Assessment of hydrokinetic energy near Rose Dhu Island, Georgia

The presented study reports on numerical simulations of flows in tidal channels near Rose Dhu Island, GA, which is used to identify hotspots of hydrokinetic energy and to assess the tidal stream energy potential at this site. The numerical simulations are complemented with field measurements of local current velocities and water surface heights, which are used to validate the simulations. Both velocity distributions and water surface heights as predicted by the numerical model are in good agreement with observed data. The simulations reveal a tidal asymmetry in the encompassing Ogeechee estuary with the ebb tide currents dominating over the flood tide ones. The model is able to successfully predict the distribution of discharge into the smaller creeks around Rose Dhu Island and thereby capturing the location of local hotspots of hydrokinetic energy. It is found that local hotspots do exist near the island, and the analysis suggests the maximum available annual power of 4.75 MW, with a peak estimated extraction surpassing 4 KW during Spring tides.

Numerical Modeling of Breaking Waves and Cross-Shore Currents on Barred Beaches

A process-based numerical model has been used to study nearshore hydrodynamics on barred beaches. A laboratory experiment with an offshore bar migration case followed by an onshore bar migration is simulated. A new mechanism is incorporated in the model accounting for the breaking-wave persistence improving model performance for wave properties, particularly in the bar-trough region. A cross-shore variation of the breaking-wave parameter is introduced to the dissipation model. The effects of the surface shape parameter and a roller lag on radiation stresses and mean water-level predictions are investigated and found to improve the mean water-level predictions. The cross-shore variation of the momentum balance is presented to illustrate the variation of forcing for the undertow current. The persistence length and the roller lag mechanisms are shown to be important for predictions of the undertow currents on barred beaches and the current predictions are improved once both methods are used.

Pulsing and circulation in rip current system

Current pulsations from a longshore bar and trough rip system located on the eastern coast of Moreton Island, Australia are presented. These pulsations occur over 10-20minute intervals through the rip system and are correlated to both water level gradients and wave energy variations. The field measurements suggest that rip current pulsations can be driven by fluctuating mass transport over the shore parallel inner bar.

MODELING OF A RIP CURRENT SYSTEM ON MORETON ISLAND, AUSTRALIA

Mean water level, pressure and velocity measurements of a small rip current system taken on Moreton Island, Australia in December 2000 are presented. During high tide, gradients in the mean water level over the bar and in the trough are weakly directed away from the channel thereby producing no feeder or rip currents. However as the tide falls, the gradients strengthen toward the channel, generating feeder and rip currents. Numerical modeling of the rip system reproduces similar behavior of the circulation patterns. The model indicates that the changing breaking pattern as the water level decreases with the falling tide is the primary factor for the differing hydraulic gradients and determining whether a rip current is generated.

Wind relaxation and a coastal buoyant plume north of Pt. Conception, CA: Observations, simulations, and scalings

In upwelling regions, wind relaxations lead to poleward propagating warm water plumes that are important to coastal ecosystems. The coastal ocean response to wind relaxation around Pt. Conception, CA is simulated with a Regional Ocean Model (ROMS) forced by realistic surface and lateral boundary conditions including tidal processes. The model reproduces well the statistics of observed subtidal water column temperature and velocity at both outer and inner-shelf mooring locations throughout the study. A poleward-propagating plume of Southern California Bight water that increases shelf water temperatures by ≈ 5°C is also reproduced. Modeled plume propagation speed, spatial scales, and flow structure are consistent with a theoretical scaling for coastal buoyant plumes with both surface-trapped and slope-controlled dynamics. Plume momentum balances are distinct between the offshore (>30 m depth) region where the plume is surface-trapped, and onshore of the 30 m isobath (within 5 km from shore) where the plume water mass extends to the bottom and is slope controlled. In the onshore region, bottom stress is important in the alongshore momentum equation and generates vertical vorticity that is an order of magnitude larger than the vorticity in the plume core. Numerical experiments without tidal forcing show that modeled surface temperatures are biased 0.5°C high, potentially affecting plume propagation distance and persistence.