KyoungOk Kim

Verification of prediction for bending rigidity of woven fabric laminated with interlining by adhesive bonding

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by the KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses were reduced compared to those before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn’t change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated fabric with adhesive interlining by a laminate model considering tensile and in-plane compressive moduli:

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining considered tensile and in-plane compressive moduli. The predicting method considering those moduli was proposed by theoretical derivation based on laminate model. Tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of neutral surface for face fabric and adhesive interlining respectively before laminating and modulus for bending rigidity were considered independently. The calculating equation for in-plane compressive modulus was proposed from the relationship between bending rigidities and tensile properties. The proposed predicting method was verified experimentally. Bending rigidities, tensile properties and thicknesses of adhesive interlinings, face fabrics and laminated fabrics with adhesive interlinings were measured by KES-FB system. The in-plane compressive moduli of adhesive interlinings were calculated by the proposed equation with the results of tensile properties for face fabrics. With the results of tensile and in-plane compressive moduli, the bending rigidities of laminated fabric with adhesive interlinings were calculated. The predicted bending rigidities considered with measured tensile properties and calculated in-plane compressive moduli were precisely closer to experimental results than the ones of the laminated model from our previous study. Therefore, this model gives a new way to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining.

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated weft knitted fabric with adhesive interlining

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated weft knitted fabric using three prediction methods and to determine their suitability for predicting. The methods are as follows: Method 1: the laminate theory using bending rigidities and thicknesses of components, Method 2: an equation derived from the laminate theory taken into account the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components, Method 3: an equation in consideration of the position of the neutral axis in bending on a face fabric. Six weft knitted fabrics and ten adhesive interlinings, sixty laminated composites with those combinations were used. Tensile properties and bending rigidities, thicknesses of samples were measured. The other necessary parameters for the prediction were obtained by additional experiments and calculation. It was found that the results by Method 3 showed the closest agreements with experimental ones. It is due to the relative positions of the neutral axes for all knitted fabric samples are not in the centroid. It became clear that the position must be taken into account for calculating bending rigidities of laminated knitted fabric with adhesive interlining.

Bending rigidity of laminated fabric taking into account the neutral axes of components

The bending rigidity of laminated fabric was investigated considering the positions of the neutral axes in bending for components in addition to the tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of components. Theoretically derived equations were proposed to obtain the position of the neutral axis and to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric. Eight face fabrics, ten adhesive interlinings and eighty laminated fabrics of those combinations were used for experimental samples. Tensile properties, bending rigidities and thicknesses of samples were measured and used to investigate the validity of the theory. The positions of the neutral axes for the face fabrics were obtained and they were not close to the centroid of the fabric. The calculated bending rigidities of laminated fabrics using the obtained position of neutral axes were more agreed with the experimental ones than the results by the method without considering the position of neutral axis. Therefore, it was found that the bending rigidity of laminated fabric can be predicted more precisely considering the position of neutral axis.

Continuous measurement of apparent Poisson's ratio for yarn based on omni-directional diameters

We proposed a new method for measuring apparent Poisson’s ratio for yarn and developed a new tensile tester equipped with a digital micrometer that can measure the omni-directional diameter of the yarn annularly while the yarn is elongated. Values of apparent Poisson’s ratio were obtained from the longitudinal and transverse strains continuously. The mean diameter measured omni-directionally was used to calculate the transverse strain for each longitudinal strain. We tested five spun yarns, one monofilament yarn and two filament yarns and obtained values of apparent Poisson’s ratio against longitudinal strain for all samples. Apparent Poisson’s ratio was not constant for spun and filament yarns, while it was constant for monofilament yarn. When the longitudinal strain was low, apparent Poisson’s ratios of ring spun yarns and filament yarns were large, owing to the fiber packing density. As the longitudinal strain increased, apparent Poisson’s ratio gradually decreased. Furthermore, we approximated the relationship between apparent Poisson’s ratio and the longitudinal strain using a power function. The apparent Poisson values can be used in the simulation of fabrics.

Verification of the effect of yarn torsional rigidity on fabric bending rigidity in any direction

The effect of yarn torsional rigidity was verified on the Cooper model for fabric bending rigidity in any direction. We made five cotton fabrics with different weft densities and prepared three commercial fabrics as experimental samples. The torsional rigidity of yarn from the bobbin and that of yarn directly extracted from fabric were measured with a yarn torsional tester. The bending rigidity of yarn from the bobbin was measured using the same pure bending tester as used in fabric bending testing. The bending rigidity of thin fabric was calculated using torsional rigidities of yarns extracted from the fabric and showed better agreement with the experimental values than that calculated using the torsional rigidity of yarn from the bobbin. Indeed, measurements showed that the torsional rigidity of yarn from the bobbin was appreciably higher than the torsional rigidity of yarn from the fabric. This is due to the crimp in the yarn. The fabric bending rigidity can be predicted using the Cooper model with torsional rigidities of yarns extracted from the fabric.

Quantifying the appearance of jackets with adhesive interlinings

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively evaluate the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity. Design/methodology/approach – Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waistline. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis. Findings – The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of ...

Upper garment 3D modeling for pattern making

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approach – The authors used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, the authors made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, the authors produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, the authors calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each ba...

Comparison of elegance of Japanese and European jackets

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate factors affecting the impression of elegance of a jacket’s appearance. Design/methodology/approach – A questionnaire survey on the impression of jacket appearance was conducted using images of jackets of Japanese and European brands. A paired comparison and sensory test were carried out for four Japanese and European jackets. To explain different jacket appearances, the jacket patterns and silhouettes were investigated from an engineering point of view. Findings – Most Japanese subjects responded that European jackets in images were more elegant and characteristic of European style. In a comparison of jacket silhouettes, Jacket 1 (European brand) was evaluated as the most elegant. The waist and bust parts of Jacket 1 had three-dimensional shape whereas the Japanese jackets had planar and rectilinear shapes. This was due to the difference in the waist darts and curved lines in the patterns. Jacket appearance in terms of elegance is thus mainly affected ...

Comparison of Japanese and Chinese Clothing Evaluations by Experts Taking into Account Marketability

Abstract To better understand the reasons for the marketability of clothing now designed and sold in China and Japan, we asked Japanese and Chinese experts to evaluate Chinese and Japanese brands of clothing currently for sale in the Japanese market. The marketability of the Chinese apparel items in the Japanese market was evaluated by the Japanese experts. Five Japanese jackets were purchased from a department store in Tokyo, and ten items of Chinese clothing were purchased from a department store in Beijing. Five of the Chinese clothing samples were judged as impossible to sell in Japanese department stores primarily because the sewing quality was incompatible with Japanese requirements, the designs were outdated, and the materials were of low quality. However, the other five Chinese clothing samples received high evaluations of marketability in Japan. We found that Japanese experts focused on general design and sewing finish, while Chinese experts considered more general design points. Thus, our results indicate that clothing is evaluated differently in Japan and China. We conclude that it is necessary to consider the respective evaluation points used in each country as we pursue globalisation.