Masayuki Takatera

An interactive body model for individual pattern making

Purpose – In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape con...

On‐demand production system of apparel on the basis of Kansei engineering

This paper argues for the immediate use of Kansei engineering to help deal with the chaotic situation of poorly implemented and disconnected technologies. A theoretical criticism of the current industrial capitalism, together with the promotion of a new post‐industrial form of capitalism, lays the foundation for an explanation of how this transition can be achieved through a proper understanding of Kansei. A detailed explanation of the interactive production system apparel demonstrates the benefits to both manufacturers and consumers. The paper concludes that the application to apparel is just one of the many potential applications to improving the lifestyle and enjoyment of individuals in the entire society.

Individual Pattern Making Using Computerized Draping Method for Clothing

The consumer is demanding more variety and personalization in apparel products. Personalization includes creating clothing that not only takes into account of variations in size, but also variations of the body shape itself. The traditional grading method is the current standard sizing system in the apparel industry. It starts with a base size which is then proportionally graded to create a multiple set of sizes. Although it caters for a limited number of sizes, this method does not include variations in body shape. In our research, we have developed a method of individual pattern making by modifying a traditional draping system so that it can be used in conjunction with modern three-dimensional modeling techniques. Individualized pattern making means customized pattern making for individuals. This method uses a five-step draping process. The steps are: (1) defining the surface shape; (2) setting grainlines; (3) fitting the fabric to the surface shape; (4) cutting of the three-dimensional surfaces; and (5) developing the three-dimensionally fitted fabric into a two-dimensional pattern. Our fitting process prevents or controls buckling when the limit angle of a fabric’s ability to conform to a surface is exceeded. We do this entire process using computed geometrical models, rather than physically. Therefore we believe it has the potential to be more efficient and simple than other techniques. When we used this method to make a pattern for a tight skirt, we easily created complex curved lines automatically using this development method. When test subjects compared our skirt with a traditionally designed skirt, approximately 80% of the subjects indicated a preference for our skirt. Although this paper focuses on patterns made for dummies, our future research will focus on fitting to real human body shapes.

Verification of prediction for bending rigidity of woven fabric laminated with interlining by adhesive bonding

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by the KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses were reduced compared to those before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn’t change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.

Posture and depth adjustable 3D body model for individual pattern making

Purpose – This paper aims to describe the development of an interactive body model that can be altered to match individual body perimeter, postures and depth for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – Construction of the posture and depth adjustable body model requires the extraction of ten points, adjustment of coordinate points, linking of points by spline curves, control of section lengths and selectability of three hip types. Front to back depth of the model is adjusted by scaling ratio.Findings – Good results were achieved in modelling back shapes, such as flat shape and stoop shape, and of modelling various hip shapes, such as flat shape and protruding shape. Also the presented body model is able to accurately simulate individual depth of bust, waist and hips. Silhouette comparison between the fully adjusted virtual body model and real body shapes shows an almost perfect match. A primary dialog for altering perimeter, length and depth, and a posture dialog for contr...

Drape formation based on geometric constraints and its application to skirt modelling

Drape is a characteristic behaviour of flexible cloth, so it is important in modelling cloth. The paper introduces a novel method to model drape using a few shape parameters, predicted according to the pattern structure and mechanical properties of cloth. The technique is used to visualize the 3‐D drapeability of cloth and is then extended to simulation of a skirt. The general shape of a flared skirt of large deformation is predicted based on several shape parameters. Moreover, the constructed skirt model is used as pre‐draped initial shape for the popular physically‐based model – particle system. Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) plots of cloth are applied for accurate mechanical calculation. The simulated results show good agreement with actual cloth materials.

A new thermocouple technique for the precise measurement of in-plane capillary water flow within fabrics

A new method was proposed for the measurement of in-plane capillary water flow within fabrics automatically. The method was based on the use of thermocouples to measure temperature changes as the fabric absorbed water. The wicking length of three different woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics in the warp, weft and 45° bias directions was measured using this technique. The wicking length was found to have a linear relationship with the square root of time, in agreement with the Washburn equation. Comparing the results with the data acquired using the horizontal Byreck method, the thermocouple technique was found to be suitable for the precise measurement of in-plane capillary water flow through fabrics automatically. Moreover, based on this method, the feasibility of estimating the water contents of fabrics from temperature differences generated during the flow process was also investigated. We found that it was possible to estimate the water content of a fabric, provided the moisture level is below the critical water content at equilibrium. This can be used to estimate the water content of fabric when it is worn.

Measuring Technology of the Anisotropic Tensile Properties of Woven Fabrics

A new creditable and effective multi-axial circular tensile tester (MACTT) with 16 load sensors installed around a circumference has been developed. The new tester could be used to measure tensile properties in various directions with one sample simultaneously under the same initial conditions. As a result, not only an error could be reduced, but also the experiment samples and time could be saved. The experimental results showed good agreement with the theoretical approximate values calculated based on Hookes Law. We also compared the stress distributions obtained by the new tester with those tested by the Kawabatas Evaluation System (KES) instrument and the results confirmed that the new tester was theoretically reasonable and practically feasible for measuring orthotropic tensile properties of the fabrics with symmetrical structures, and that the new tester could also be used to test and evaluate the anisotropic tensile properties of fabrics with no orthogonal main axes.

Evaluating Shear Rigidity of Woven Fabrics

A new shear tester of woven fabrics based on the trellis shear model is described. The tester can be used to carry out shear deformation experiments under quite low tensile stresses. The values of shear rigidity tested on the new tester were compared with those tested on the uniaxial tensile tester and the KES (Kawabata’s Evaluation System) instrument. The results confirm that the tester is more feasible and effective for measuring shear behavior in a natural state. This study establishes a foundation for constructing a universal instrument that can be used to measure shear deformation under any conditions.

Prediction of bending rigidity for laminated fabric with adhesive interlining by a laminate model considering tensile and in-plane compressive moduli:

The purpose of this study is to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining considered tensile and in-plane compressive moduli. The predicting method considering those moduli was proposed by theoretical derivation based on laminate model. Tensile and in-plane compressive moduli of neutral surface for face fabric and adhesive interlining respectively before laminating and modulus for bending rigidity were considered independently. The calculating equation for in-plane compressive modulus was proposed from the relationship between bending rigidities and tensile properties. The proposed predicting method was verified experimentally. Bending rigidities, tensile properties and thicknesses of adhesive interlinings, face fabrics and laminated fabrics with adhesive interlinings were measured by KES-FB system. The in-plane compressive moduli of adhesive interlinings were calculated by the proposed equation with the results of tensile properties for face fabrics. With the results of tensile and in-plane compressive moduli, the bending rigidities of laminated fabric with adhesive interlinings were calculated. The predicted bending rigidities considered with measured tensile properties and calculated in-plane compressive moduli were precisely closer to experimental results than the ones of the laminated model from our previous study. Therefore, this model gives a new way to predict bending rigidity of laminated fabric with adhesive interlining.