Nirnimesh Kumar

The role of morphology and wave‐current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis

The outflowing currents from tidal inlets are influenced both by the morphology of the ebb-tide shoal and interaction with incident surface gravity waves. Likewise, the propagation and breaking of incident waves are affected by the morphology and the strength and structure of the outflowing current. The 3-D Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system is applied to numerically analyze the interaction between currents, waves, and bathymetry in idealized inlet configurations. The bathymetry is found to be a dominant controlling variable. In the absence of an ebb shoal and with weak wave forcing, a narrow outflow jet extends seaward with little lateral spreading. The presence of an ebb-tide shoal produces significant pressure gradients in the region of the outflow, resulting in enhanced lateral spreading of the jet. Incident waves cause lateral spreading and limit the seaward extent of the jet, due both to conversion of wave momentum flux and enhanced bottom friction. The interaction between the vorticity of the outflow jet and the wave stokes drift is also an important driving force for the lateral spreading of the plume. For weak outflows, the outflow jet is actually enhanced by strong waves when there is a channel across the bar, due to the “return current” effect. For both strong and weak outflows, waves increase the alongshore transport in both directions from the inlet due to the wave-induced setup over the ebb shoal. Wave breaking is more influenced by the topography of the ebb shoal than by wave-current interaction, although strong outflows show intensified breaking at the head of the main channel.

Midshelf to Surfzone Coupled ROMS–SWAN Model Data Comparison of Waves, Currents, and Temperature: Diagnosis of Subtidal Forcings and Response

AbstractA coupled wave and circulation model that includes tide, wind, buoyancy, and wave processes is necessary to investigate tracer exchange in the shelf region. Here, a coupled Regional Ocean Model System (ROMS)–Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model, resolving midshelf to the surfzone region of the San Pedro Bay, California, is compared to observations from the 2006 Huntington Beach experiment. Waves are well modeled, and surfzone cross- and alongshore velocities are reasonably well modeled. Modeled and observed rotary velocity spectra compare well in subtidal and tidal bands, and temperature spectra compare well in the subtidal band. Observed and modeled mid- and inner-shelf subtidal velocity ellipses and temperature variability determined from the first vertical complex EOF (cEOF) mode have similar vertical structure. Although the modeled subtidal velocity vertical shear and stratification are weaker than observed, the ratio of stratification to shear is similar, suggesting model vertical mixing i...

Mid- to Inner-Shelf Coupled ROMS–SWAN Model–Data Comparison of Currents and Temperature: Diurnal and Semidiurnal Variability

AbstractAccurately representing diurnal and semidiurnal internal variability is necessary to investigate inner-shelf to midshelf exchange processes. Here, a coupled Regional Ocean Model System (ROMS)–Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model is compared to observed diurnal and semidiurnal internal tidal variability on the mid and inner shelf (26–8 m water depth) near San Pedro Bay, California. Modeled mean stratification is about one-half of that observed. Modeled and observed baroclinic velocity rotary spectra are similar in the diurnal and semidiurnal band. Modeled and observed temperature spectra have similar diurnal and semidiurnal band structure, although the modeled is weaker. The observed and modeled diurnal and semidiurnal baroclinic velocity- and temperature-dominant vertical structures are similar and consistent with mode-one internal motions. Both observed and modeled diurnal baroclinic kinetic energy are strongly correlated to diurnal wind forcing and enhanced by subtidal vorticity-induced reduc...

Bulk versus Spectral Wave Parameters: Implications on Stokes Drift Estimates, Regional Wave Modeling, and HF Radars Applications

AbstractAccurate estimates of Stokes drift are necessary to quantify Lagrangian transport and upper-ocean mixing. These can be estimated from directional wave spectra. Here, a methodology for the reconstruction of such spectra is developed using partitioned bulk wave parameters provided by global wave models. These reconstructed spectra agree well with global wave model–simulated full spectra. Regional wave model simulations with reconstructed spectra as open boundary conditions lead to more accurate estimates of bulk wave parameters in the coastal ocean. Furthermore, the reconstructed directional spectra can be used to improve high-frequency (HF) radar–derived surface Lagrangian current estimates. Stokes drift vertical profiles from complete directional spectra are more accurate, and therefore coupled ocean circulation and wave models should incorporate spectral estimates for wave–current interaction studies. Based on model simulations conducted here, it is recommended that regional wave modeling studies...

Wind relaxation and a coastal buoyant plume north of Pt. Conception, CA: Observations, simulations, and scalings

In upwelling regions, wind relaxations lead to poleward propagating warm water plumes that are important to coastal ecosystems. The coastal ocean response to wind relaxation around Pt. Conception, CA is simulated with a Regional Ocean Model (ROMS) forced by realistic surface and lateral boundary conditions including tidal processes. The model reproduces well the statistics of observed subtidal water column temperature and velocity at both outer and inner-shelf mooring locations throughout the study. A poleward-propagating plume of Southern California Bight water that increases shelf water temperatures by ≈ 5°C is also reproduced. Modeled plume propagation speed, spatial scales, and flow structure are consistent with a theoretical scaling for coastal buoyant plumes with both surface-trapped and slope-controlled dynamics. Plume momentum balances are distinct between the offshore (>30 m depth) region where the plume is surface-trapped, and onshore of the 30 m isobath (within 5 km from shore) where the plume water mass extends to the bottom and is slope controlled. In the onshore region, bottom stress is important in the alongshore momentum equation and generates vertical vorticity that is an order of magnitude larger than the vorticity in the plume core. Numerical experiments without tidal forcing show that modeled surface temperatures are biased 0.5°C high, potentially affecting plume propagation distance and persistence.

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

A new offshore transport mechanism for shoreline‐released tracer induced by transient rip currents and stratification

Offshore transport from the shoreline across the inner shelf of early-stage larvae and pathogens is poorly understood yet is critical for understanding larval fate and dilution of polluted shoreline water. With a novel coupling of a transient rip current (TRC) generating surf zone model and an ocean circulation model, we show that transient rip currents ejected onto a stratified inner shelf induce a new, previously unconsidered offshore transport pathway. For incident waves and stratification typical for Southern California in the fall, this mechanism subducts surf zone-origin tracers and transports them at least 800 m offshore at 1.2 km/d analogous to subduction at ocean fronts. This mechanism requires both TRCs and stratification. As TRCs are ubiquitous and the inner shelf is often stratified, this mechanism may have an important role in exporting early-stage larvae, pathogens, or other tracers onto the shelf.

Statistics of Internal Tide Bores and Internal Solitary Waves Observed on the Inner Continental Shelf off Point Sal, California

AbstractMoored observations of temperature and current were collected on the inner continental shelf off Point Sal, California, between 9 June and 8 August 2015. The measurements consist of 10 moorings in total: 4 moorings each on the 50- and 30-m isobaths covering a 10-km along-shelf distance and an across-shelf section of moorings on the 50-, 40-, 30-, and 20-m isobaths covering a 5-km distance. Energetic, highly variable, and strongly dissipating transient wave events termed internal tide bores and internal solitary waves (ISWs) dominate the records. Simple models of the bore and ISW space–time behavior are implemented as a temperature match filter to detect events and estimate wave packet parameters as a function of time and mooring position. Wave-derived quantities include 1) group speed and direction; 2) time of arrival, time duration, vertical displacement amplitude, and waves per day; and 3) energy density, energy flux, and propagation loss. In total, over 1000 bore events and over 9000 ISW events...

Shelf Cross-Shore Flows under Storm-driven Conditions: Role of Stratification, Shoreline Orientation, and Bathymetry

AbstractNumerical simulations are used to study the response of Long Bay, South Carolina, a typical coastal embayment with curved coastline located on the South Atlantic Bight, to realistic, climat...

The Effect of Barotropic and Baroclinic Tides on Three-Dimensional Coastal Dispersion: DISPERSION IN COASTAL MODELS

The effects of barotropic and baroclinic tides on three-dimensional (3-D) coastal dispersion are examined with realistic, 200-m horizontal resolution simulations of the Central Californian continental shelf during upwelling. Over multiple tidal cycles, the horizontal relative dispersion and vertical dispersion of 3-D drifters are similar between simulations with no tides and with barotropic tides. In contrast, baroclinic tides, which dissipate across the shelf and induce vertical mixing, result in a factor of 2–3 times larger horizontal and vertical dispersion. The increase in horizontal dispersion with vertical mixing is qualitatively consistent with weak-mixing shear dispersion. Without shear dispersion, horizontal dispersion of surface-trapped (2-D) drifters was similar in all simulations. However, 2-D drifter trajectory differences relative to no tide simulations are 3–4 times larger with baroclinic tides than barotropic tides alone. These results demonstrate the need to include baroclinic tides and 3-D tracking for coastal passive tracer dispersion. Plain Language Summary Understanding the dispersal of material in the coastal ocean is relevant to pollutant dilution, marine ecosystem sustainability, and search-and-rescue operations. Although numerical circulation models are commonly used to predict material dispersal, these models often do not include tides. Here the tidal effect on material dispersal is compared with numerical drifters released in a realistic model without tides, with surface tides (the rise and fall of sea level), and with internal tides (the rise and fall of interior density layers). Surface tides contribute little additional dispersal in the model region, while internal tides induce 2–3 times larger horizontal and about 2 times larger vertical dispersal in comparison to models without tides. In addition, after 48 hr surface drifter trajectory differences between models with and without internal tides are 8 km. Therefore, internal tides need to be considered in models used to plan oil-spill response or search-and-rescue operations.