Paola Ziosi

Determination of antioxidant efficacy of cosmetic formulations by non‐invasive measurements

Background/aims: Antioxidants have been proposed, over the last decade, as functional ingredients for anti aging preparations and to prevent and modulate oxidative skin damages. Up to date, beside the photo‐induced oxidative skin damages model, none in vivo protocols have shown sufficient reproducibility for the validation of the antioxidant claim for a cosmetic finished product. To this aim, we have recently anticipated a new in vivo protocol based on a microinflammatory model, driven by reactive oxygen species. In the present study our model was validated by comparison with four different instrumental methods.

Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review

Besides the unquestionable positive effects of solar exposure for human health, UV rays have been widely investigated for toxicology aspects related to excessive UVB and UVA doses, which involve sunburns, skin aging, DNA skin damage and tumorigenesis. At present, synthetic and mineral sunscreens are used to protect against these damages but several natural molecules can provide UV protection, including also synergic effect or enhanced photo stability. Although a large number of herbal extracts and plant origin molecules can deserve potential applications, most of the study reported utilizes different method and different strategies of investigation, making thus difficult to understand the real versus claimed potential. This is possibly one of the reasons why, beside the large body of literature there are no officially approved natural commercial sun-filter but a consistent number of commercially available solar products (sunscreen) on the market that contain herbal derivatives. In this review we have evaluated the papers appeared in the last 15years and we have critically collected the most significant data. Several databases, namely Scifinder, Pubmed, Google Scholar, ISI-Web of Science and Scopus, were used as literature sources; excluding patents and symposium or congress papers. Only articles in the English language have been selected. New formulation, new skin delivery systems, skin penetration enhancers and boosters are most likely the next frontier of investigation in order to better understand the role of whole herbal extracts in exerting their photo protective activity.

A non-invasive method for the in vivo determination of skin antioxidant capacity (IAC-S).

Background/purposes: Skin antioxidant network protects cells against oxidative injury and prevents the production of oxidation products. When oxidative stress overwhelms the skin antioxidant capacity, the subsequent modification of the cellular redox apparatus leads to an alteration of cell homeostasis leading to degenerative processes. In the dermocosmetic field, the topical application of antioxidants is often suggested as a possible strategy to prevent and modulate oxidative skin damages. Continuing our studies addressed to set‐up new bio‐engeneering protocols for the claim substantiation of antioxidant cosmetic products, we have developed a new non‐invasive methodology for the evaluation of antioxidants cosmetics ingredients and finished products.