Peter G. Cookson

Effects of Plasma Treatment of Wool on the Uptake of Sulfonated Dyes with Different Hydrophobic Properties

A wool fabric has been subjected to an atmospheric-pressure treatment with a helium plasma for 30 seconds. X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry confirmed removal of the covalently-bound fatty acid layer (F-layer) from the surface of the wool fibers, resulting in exposure of the underlying, hydrophilic protein material. Dye uptake experiments were carried out at 50°C to evaluate the effects of plasma on the rate of dye uptake by the fiber surface, as well as give an indication of the adsorption characteristics in the early stages of a typical dyeing cycle. The dyes used were typical, sulfonated wool dyes with a range of hydrophobic characteristics, as determined by their partitioning behavior between water and n-butanol. No significant effects of plasma on the rate of dye adsorption were observed with relatively hydrophobic dyes. In contrast, the relatively hydrophilic dyes were adsorbed more rapidly (and uniformly) by the plasma-treated fabric. It was concluded that adsorption of hydrophobic dyes on plasma-treated wool was influenced by hydrophobic interactions, whereas electrostatic effects predominated for dyes of more hydrophilic character. On heating the dyebath to 90°C in order to achieve fiber penetration, no significant effect of the plasma treatment on the extent of uptake or levelness of a relatively hydrophilic dye was observed as equilibrium conditions were approached.

The effects of ultrasonic agitation in laundering on the properties of wool fabrics.

This paper investigates the use of ultrasonic agitation as a method for reducing felting and area shrinkage during the laundering of wool fabric. Work was conducted to evaluate the changes in fibre and fabric properties after repeated exposure to ultrasonic agitation, and also the effectiveness of ultrasonic treatment to remove common stains. Fabric colour, appearance, tensile strength, dimensional stability and thickness were measured before and after each test. Ultrasonic agitation produced fine cracks in the scale structure of the fibre, but these had negligible effects on the strength and colour when compared to hand washing. Ultrasonic agitation caused less fibre migration than hand washing, with a reduced rate of thickness increase and felting. Ultrasonic agitation increased the level of stain removed from the fabric when compared with hand washing.

Effects of leveling agent on the uptake of reactive dyes by untreated and plasma-treated wool

Atmospheric-pressure plasma treatment of wool fabric produced a significantly higher level of adsorbed fiber-reactive dye when applied at 50 °C (pH 3.0—6.0) in the absence of any organic leveling agent. In addition, color yields indicated that dye was more uniformly adsorbed by the plasma-treated fabric compared with the untreated material. When untreated fabric was dyed in the presence of a leveling agent (Albegal B), the extent and levelness of dye sorption were enhanced. These enhancements were, however, relatively small on the plasma-treated wool compared with those on untreated wool. A ‘surface’ mechanism, similar to that proposed when plasma-treated wool is dyed in the absence of leveling agent, can explain the leveling ability of Albegal B under adsorption conditions. Increasing the dyebath temperature to 90 °C resulted in dye penetration of the fibers. Under these conditions, any enhancements of dye uptake produced by the plasma treatment, as well as the use of Albegal B, were relatively small, in contrast to the behavior at 50 °C. Improvements in the uniformity of dye sorption observed at 50 °C were, however, maintained at the higher temperature. It is concluded that the inability of reactive dyes to migrate (and so promote leveling and uniformity) once they have reacted with the fiber, means that differences in the uniformity of dye sorbed at 50 °C are still apparent at equilibrium.

Use of low‐level plasma for enhancing the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated with a silicone polymer

This study examines the effects of an atmospheric pressure plasma (APP) pre‐treatment on the shrink resistance of wool fabric treated subsequently, by the pad/dry method, with an aqueous emulsion of the amino‐functional polydimethylsiloxane, SM 8709. Optimal shrink resistance (with no impairment of fabric handle) was obtained after a low‐level plasma treatment (1–3 s exposure time), using 5% of the polymer emulsion. Higher levels of silicone polymer could be used to achieve shrink resistance in the absence of a plasma pre‐treatment, but the fabric handle would be adversely affected. X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) studies showed that the bulk of the covalently bound surface lipid layer was removed after a plasma exposure time of 30 s. For treatment times of 3 s or less, however, the removal was incomplete, suggesting that optimum shrink resistance (after treatment with the silicone polymer) was associated with the modification of the surface layer rather than its complete destruction. Scanning electron micrographs (SEMs) revealed that the plasma pre‐treatment did not lead to any physical modifications (such as smoothening of the scale edges), even for long exposure times, and had no significant impact on the extent or nature of the inter‐fibre bonding of the polymer. Confocal microscopy showed uniform spread of polymer on single fibres. It is concluded that the main impact of the plasma pre‐treatment was to enhance the distribution of polymer both on and between fibres and to improve adhesion of polymer to the fibre.

Ageing effect of plasma‐treated wool

Atmospheric pressure plasma treatment of wool fabric, with a relatively short exposure time, effectively removed the covalently bonded lipid layer from the wool surface. The plasma‐treated fabric showed increased wettability and the fibres showed greater roughness. X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) analysis showed a much more hydrophilic surface with significant increases in oxygen and nitrogen concentrations and a decrease in carbon concentration. Adhesion, as measured by scanning probe microscopy (SPM) force volume analysis, also increased, consistent with the more hydrophilic surface leading to a greater meniscus force on the SPM probe. The ageing of fibres from the plasma‐treated fabric was assessed over a period of 28 days. While no physical changes were observed, the chemical nature of the surface changed significantly. XPS showed a decrease in the hydrophilic nature of the surface with time, consistent with the measured decrease in wettability. This change is proposed to be due to the reorientation of proteolipid chains. SPM adhesion studies also showed the surface to be changing with time. After ageing for 28 days, the plasma‐treated surface was relatively stable and still dramatically different from the untreated fibre, suggesting that the oxidation of the surface and modification or removal of the lipid layer were permanent.

A Comparative Study on Accelerated Weathering Tests of Wool Fabrics

This work has used two lightboxes with Philips 500 W MBTF lamps for a comparative trial on the photoyellowing evaluation of untreated wool fabrics under dry and wet conditions. An investigation was made to account for different trends of photoyellowing of the same wool fabric when irradiated by the two lightboxes. The fabric specimens irradiated in one lamp experienced increasing yellowing with irradiation time while specimens from the same wool fabric but irradiated under the other lamp manifested no noticeable color change. These differences are attributed to the susceptibility of wool to small spectral differences between the two MBTF lamps. Furthermore, the color fading results obtained from the commonly used blue wool standard (BWS) references from L1 to L3 show that these reference materials could not effectively reveal changes caused by the spectral differences in two MBTF lamps. These results have important implications for conducting accelerated weathering tests on spectrum-sensitive textile materials, and considerable care should be taken when using BWSs to ensure reliable and consistent irradiation results.