Phoebe R. Apeagyei

Usability of pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit for mass customisation

Purpose – The paper seeks to evaluate and present the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of garment fit.Design/methodology/approach – This study focuses on the use of 3D technology in the testing of garment fit. It examines the usability of one pattern customising technology in the achievement and testing of fit and presents primary data from experiments on the provision and testing of garment fit of specified size patterns for a jacket and skirt. Findings on virtual and human fit trials and an evaluation of the 3D technology are presented.Findings – The study found that 3D software for fit provision and testing is still in its infancy, although advancements are currently being made in this area. It establishes that while fit can be virtually tested with 3D technology, its usability is not yet fine‐tuned. It evaluates procedures and presents problematic features of the 3D software. It underscores that although some issues concerning efficient provision and testi...

Significance of body image among UK female fashion consumers: The cult of size zero, the skinny trend

Induced by persuasive social settings, the dilemma of what is considered as an ideal size, shape and body image continue to impact decisions consumers make regarding clothing selection and fashion. Body image has been identified as crucial to clothing provision and fashion consumption (Sproles and Burns 1994). In presenting methodological considerations in researching body cathexis for fashion products, Apeagyei et al. (2007) observed that body measurements alone is not the panacea to solving consumer sizing and fit problems and draw attention to the tension between body image and geometry. Generally, women are self-conscious about body cathexis (degree of satisfaction/dissatisfaction) with their physical forms. This does not only impact garment fit assessment and preferences but also affect self evaluations relating to body image. Instigated by the media, the desire to emulate celebrities and remain fashionable has been the current focus of consumers, as some try to fit into the socially construed ideal body type of ‘the skinny trend’.

Ethical practice and methodological considerations in researching body cathexis for fashion products

Purpose – The paper seeks to identify ethical issues arising from body cathexis research and analyse categories for attention. To also highlight methodological considerations in generating body size data through measurement for fashion products.Design/methodology/approach – This study presents instrumental activities and strategies for conducting and implementing focus groups for investigating body cathexis and related body measurements for fashion products. Five homogenous groups of 30 females aged 19‐44 years, were employed. Purposive and proportionate sampling procedures involving both qualitative and quantitative methods were applied and analysed by triangulation. Aspects of the methodology of measurement are presented in this paper but analysis of measurement data is presented in a subsequent paper. Key ethical principles by the Economic and Social Research Council (ESRC), UK have been also evaluated in relation to the integrity of such a study.Findings – The study found that deciding on procedures r...

Integrating 3D Scanning Data & Textile Parameters into Virtual Clothing

Globalisation has changed the face of the clothing and textile industries in many developed and developing nations. In the twenty first century no longer are clothes manufactured and retailed in specific local regions. Fashion and clothing have joined textiles in becoming a truly global operation. Despite this revolution many authors report that clothing and textiles still lag behind other manufacturing industries in relation to their enthusiasm to adopt new product development processes. The traditional clothing product development route is labour and time intensive and this process often involves a series of fit trials on live models to ensure satisfactory fit is achieved. Garment design and realisation is a highly specialised domain which demands skills across a wide variety of disciplines. CAD and computation technologies in apparel have existed for a number of years however they have provided separate working environments for those involved in design and garment construction. Whilst each specific system has been successfully integrated into their respective stage of the product design process, they have created a distinctive divide between design and apparel construction. Virtual simulation software could reduce or completely eliminate the intensive sampling stages by providing a true to life representation of the product without embarking in any physical manufacturing. It offers the opportunity to design, produce patterns, create a virtual manufactured garment and test fit in one environment. Many authors have identified essential components within 3D virtual simulation as; the digital cloning of the human body, the exact input of fabric parameters, precise computation models, and effective joining of the 2D pattern components. Modelling a human form (avatar) and simulating tactile materials involves collaboration across many different disciplines. The human body is a complex form and virtual representation is dependent on accurate physical anatomical landmarking. Modern 3D body scanning has provided the opportunity to obtain sophisticated data in relation to a 3D form. 3D scans generate thousands of data points which can be manipulated to create static or dynamic forms. The animation industry has utilised this technology extensively in gaming during the last century, which has generated much interest within the apparel industries. Virtual garment simulation offers opportunities in apparel in four distinct areas; Firstly speed to market; Secondly, opportunities for niche and luxury custom made garments where the customer could be the designer of their own garment; Thirdly, in e-commerce, a garment could be selected from a multimedia catalogue and viewed on a body shape similar to the consumer; and finally in the development of fitted garments (sportswear and intimate apparel) where the apparel could be designed with accurate mapping of comfort and support. 3D virtual simulation is set to play an important role within apparel product development in the future. This paper presents a discussion regarding 3D scanning technologies, available 3D virtual simulation software and methods of obtaining the fabric parameters. One commercial system is discussed in terms of the integration between the body scanning data and the resultant avatar, and the inputting of the textile parameters in relation to the fabric representation.

Standard vs. Upcycled Fashion Design and Production

Abstract Value streams for collected post-consumer textiles continue to be analyzed within the global challenge to develop and employ commercially viable, yet ethical and sustainable strategies within the fashion industry. Upcycling is an existing strategy applicable to fashion production, with discarded materials used to design and create higher value products, keeping them in productive use for longer. A number of very small, niche upcycling enterprises have emerged in the UK. These brands have succeeded in creating stylistically relevant and commercially successful fashion styles utilizing waste textile materials. The advantages of scaling these enterprises up are not only environmental, but also economic and social, thereby creating a sustainable and innovative business model for UK-led fashion production. Due to high levels of three key metrics of carbon, water and waste, UK government agency WRAP (Waste & Resources Action Programme) has identified textile products as priority materials for reuse and recycling. Upcycling enables a sustainable design option for reuse techniques to be employed for greatest economic and environmental benefit, in which used clothing and textiles are sourced for the production of newly designed fashion products. This paper identifies the key differences between standard fashion design and production processes and upcycled fashion design and production processes, in order to aid the development of large-scale fashion upcycling in the UK, and contribute to a circular economy.

A collaborative apparel new product development process model using virtual reality and augmented reality technologies as enablers

ABSTRACT This study presents a collaborative new product development (NPD) process model that accommodates different perspectives of stakeholders in an apparel value chain and expedites robust new product outcomes. Advanced technologies are demanded to establish such collaborative NPD process models. Virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality (AR) technologies have become prominent in product realisation during this process, to evaluate multiple alternatives. The study proposes a twofold approach where, in the first phase, a qualitative study was carried out to evaluate the viewpoint of value stream collaborators to study the potential opportunities and limitations of applying VR and AR in NPD process. In the second phase, a quantitative study was carried out to assess the apparel consumers’ awareness on VR or AR applications, perceptions on such technologies, and intention to use such technologies in the context of apparel business. Data collection consisted of 10 in-depth interviews with experts in the industry and 94 survey responses from apparel consumers in the United Kingdom. It is concluded that VR and AR technologies will be enablers for NPD’s success in the apparel industry in providing quick responses to consumers to enhance the performance of the new products.

Determining Effective Sustainable Fashion Communication Strategies

This chapter investigates current techniques by upcycle and sustainable fashion brands to communicate features and benefits of products and their value to consumers and society. Analysis from 14 in-depth interviews featuring nine ethical fashion brands and five sustainable fashion experts (CSR professional, activist, sustainable fashion writer, and closed loop production specialists) provide comprehensive perspectives from field experts and practitioners. Key industry perspectives on communication and consumer issues on sustainability, design, and behaviour change are presented. Discussions on demands; effectiveness of techniques; and current strategies employed by brands and designers to communicate in-store and via multi-channel media are also covered in this chapter.

Consumers and professionals perceptions of garment quality for a selection of women's vests

The purpose of this study was to gauge consumer and professional perceptions regarding attributes of garment quality and its assessment. The work focused on the standards of quality of products from three major clothing retailers in the UK. A basic vest was selected from each retailer and a panel of experts from the clothing industry were invited to examine these garments and to render their professional judgement on which garment exhibited the best quality in terms of handling, and also of aesthetic appearance. A panel of potential consumers were also invited to offer their perception of the quality of the garments. Both groups expressed their opinions about the perceived cost in a blind test. These tests were conducted to achieve quality perceptions from two points of view; real actual objective quality versus subjective discernment of quality. The research highlighted the extent to which clothing quality exists in both material attributes and construction; also its awareness and expectations.