Ryoichi Kajima

EXPERIMENTS ON BEACH PROFILE CHANGE WITH A LARGE WAVE FLUME

The cost of many coastal projects is often increased by the expensive beach repair and maintenance required to remedy the destabilising effects of structures on the adjoining coastline. Physical and/or mathematical models have been developed for use in planning these projects in order to predict and quantify the effects of marine sediment transport on the coastal topography. Such models need to be calibrated against prototype data and one method of gauging volumetric sediment movement is by successive bathymetric/ topographic profiting surveys which are performed seasonally and annually. Since large quantities of sediment are related to small changes in bed elevation it is clear that this profiling needs to be done with the utmost precision* The areas most affected extend from the beach through the surf zone to water depths of about 25 metres. The surf zone in particular is a dynamic and hostile area which falls outside the traditional activities of both the hydrographic and land surveyors. Consequently innovative methods, deficient in sound survey principle and practice, have often been pursued in this area without any attempt being made to assess the tolerance on the data. This paper attempts to show that it is possible to produce reliable and verifiable results to the required accuracy by using conventional survey equipment and techniques, also by taking the necessary precautions against the many possible sources of survey error. The procedures and techniques described have evolved from NRIOs involvement over the past decade in major projects at Richards Bay, Durban, Koeberg and in False Bay. The results of a recent verification investigation are fully reported in this paper.Besides wave impact forces, erosion of the inner side of a sea dike is a serious cause of destruction. Therefore, wave run-up and overtopping effects have to be considered with respect to the safety of a dike. Strong relations were found between both these influences (TAUTENHAIN et.al., 1980, 1981, 1982), based on experiments in a wave flume and using an energy conservation concept. However, under natural conditions, an oblique wave approach has to be considered. This paper deals with the influence of wave direction on wave runup on a smooth dike slope in order to provide a basis for calculating the overtopping rates for both regular and irregular waves.This paper describes a study carried out at Port Taranaki, New Plymouth, New Zealand to determine ships track and motions at the port entrance. The results of the study being used to establish the extent (plan area) and optimum depth of proposed capital dredging works. The time lapse photographic technique, incorporating reference levels and bearings in each frame, used to record vessels entering and leaving the port is described, Maximum increases in ships draft due to sea conditions are given.N.S.L. program is a finite-difference code for two dimensionnal flows with a free surface in a vertical plane. Basic equations are Navier-Stokes Equations with a simple simulation of turbulent effects by an eddy viscosity coefficient related to the mixing length and the mean velocity gradient. Theses equations are solved in a variable domain in time. The main features of the numerical method are presented. Some comparisons with theoretical solutions give a good validation of the code both in linear and non linear cases. Other examples of application are given.The design of the coal unloading terminal in an unprotected environment created the need to develop design criteria as well as operational and structural systems that will respond toproblems arising from unloading bulk in the open sea. As there was no known precedent of an unprotected unloading terminal, the criteria was based on experience in existing offshore loadina terminals, laboratory tests and engineering judgement.A large number of man-made tidal swimming pools (two examples are shown in Figure 1) exist along the South African coast. They are usually situated on rocky outcrops in the close vicinity of popular sandy bathing beaches to provide protected bathing conditions in these areas mainly for children and elderly people. Some tidal pools, especially along rocky coast, provide the only safe bathing facilities. Besides affording protection against waves and surfzone currents the pools provide protection from sharks. A large number of tidal pools were built during the early 1950s along the Natal South Coast after the occurrence of a relatively large number of shark attacks on bathers on that coast. The semi-diurnal tide with a range of about 1,5 m along the South African coast makes it possible for pools to be built such that water replenishment can occur during every high-water (approximately every 12 hours) during both neap and spring tide periods. Presently, there exists a great need for more tidal pools as part of the demand for more recreational facilities along the South African coast. However, no information on design criteria could be found in the literature.The objective of this research is to study the prediction method of hurricane waves around this island, especially in the Taiwan Strait. The paper describes the prediction of hurricane waves used by Bretchneiders (1976) Method and finds out the predicted waves are different from measured waves, therefore the Bretchneider predicted model is modified by the authors and then the modified model is applied to predict waves again. It is found out that predicted waves match well with the measured waves. The results of the modified Bretchneider model are compared with those of the Ijima tracing method and find out the former is better than the latter. The second part is to apply the modified model to predict the extreme value of wave heights and compute the worse hurricane wave condition of the surrounding sea area around island, within recent score year (1959-1978). The calculated sites are Chu-Wei, Nan-Liaw, Ta-Shih, Cheng-Kung, Pu-Tai, Tung-Kang, Nan-Wan as shown in Fig.1 and Shiau Liu- Chieu totally 8 stations. Then use the Gumbel Distribution TYPE 1 to predict the extreme wave height of each returned period.In the design and construction of waterfront bulkhead systems, it is essential to consider the coastal effects of tides, waves, boat wakes, currents, bottom sediment movement and bottom scour. Many improperly designed bulkhead systems experience severe loss of backfill and toe materials with the bulkhead eventually failing if it is not corrected in time. Inadequate drainage, joint connections, and/or inadequate toe protection are typically the causes of failure. This paper describes an investigation of a bulkhead system supporting a large waterfront development in southern California which was experiencing widespread sinkhole development in the bulkheads backfill and was on the verge of losing toe material. The objective of this investigation was to determine the extent and cause of ongoing subsurface erosion, to evaluate its effect on the bulkhead stability, and to recommend and design mitigative measures. The cause of the erosion was determined to be piping of fine grained soils due to inadequate backfill drainage. A remedial drainage scheme was designed and field-tested, and several structural repair schemes were suggested for portions of the bulkhead where accumulated damage affected the integrity of the structure.

Application of a Piston-Type Absorbing Wavemaker to Irregular Wave Experiments

ABSTRACTIt is difficult to control a conventional wavemaker so as to generate incident waves with a prescribed spectrum when multiple reflection takes place between the highly reflective structure ...

SCALE EFFECT OF WAVE FORCE ON ARMOR UNITS

Tanah Lot Temple is situated in Tabanan Regency - Bali, on the coast of the Indonesian Ocean. Due to continuous wave attack, wind force, and weathering of the rock bank where the Temple stands, abrasion has occured which is more and more threatening the existence of the Temple. Considering that Tanah Lot Temple is a sacred place for the Hindu Balinese people and a place of high cultural value, and also an important tourism, steps to save the Temple are imperative. The Central as well as the Regional Authorities, and also the Bali nese community are very much interested in the effort to keep the Temple intact. Measures have been undertaken to protect both the seaside and land-side banks of the Temple rock bank. This paper only discusses counter measures of the sea —side bank of the Temple.

REDUCTION PROCESS OF CROSS-SECTIONAL AREA AT RIVER MOUTH

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.

Study on Sediment Transport in a Power Station Harbor Basin

Extensive field investigations were carried out over a two-year period on the process of sand deposition in the cooling water intake basin in the harbor of a power station. The trapped bed load weight and mean suspended sediment concentration were found to have good correlations with the Shields Parameter corresponding to conditions of simultaneous waves and currents. A simple numerical model was developed to estimate the total net transport rate of the bed load and suspended load. Calculated results from the model were found to give a reasonable estimate of the sand deposition in the intake basin.