Tsutomu Sakakiyama

A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater

Abstract A mathematical model based on the Volume-Averaged/Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations is developed to describe surface wave motions in the vicinity of a coastal structure, which could be either a rigid solid structure or a permeable structure or a combination of both. In the VARANS equations, the volume-averaged Reynolds stress is modeled by adopting the nonlinear eddy viscosity assumption. The model equations for the volume-averaged turbulent kinetic energy and its dissipation rate are derived by taking the volume-average of the standard k−ϵ equations. Because of the volume-averaging process, the effects of the small-scale turbulence in porous media are introduced. The performance of the model is checked by comparing numerical solutions with the experimental data related to a composite breakwater reported by Sakakiyama and Liu [Coast. Eng. 121 (2001) 117].

Numerical Prediction Model of Three-Dimensional Beach Deformation Around a Structure

A three-dimensional numerical model for predicting beach evolution has been developed by improving a wave calculation method and sediment transport formulas. The wave computation includes wave refr...

ASPECTS OF INUNDATED FLOW DUE TO THE 2004 INDIAN OCEAN TSUNAMI

This paper reports the results of field surveys of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami in Southern Thailand and Northern Sumatra. After outlining the general state of the tsunami strike, tsunami height and distribution in Sec. 3, aspects of inundated flow such as current velocity (water particle velocity), fluid force, relation between inundation depth and the degree of damage to reinforced concrete buildings, shape and height of surge front, inundated flow with floating bodies, effects of coastal forest on reducing tsunami energy and force are discussed. Damage estimation problems are also discussed. A simplified theory for predicting the moving velocity of floating bodies with inundated flow is presented.

Tsunami Assessment for Risk Management at Nuclear Power Facilities in Japan

The present study focuses on evaluation of the maximum and minimum water levels caused by tsunamis as risk factors for operation and management at nuclear power facilities along the coastal area of Japan. Tsunamis generated by submarine earthquakes are examined, basing literature reviews and databases of information on historical tsunami events and run-up heights. For simulation of water level along the coast, a numerical calculation system should be designed with computational regions covering a particular site. Also the calculation system should be verified by comparison of historical and calculated tsunami heights. At the beginning of the tsunami assessment, the standard faults, their locations, mechanisms and maximum magnitudes should be carefully estimated by considering historical earthquakeinduced tsunamis and seismo-tectonics at each area. Secondly, the range of errors in the model parameters should be considered since earthquakes and tsunamis are natural phenomena that involve natural variability as well as errors in estimating parameters. For these reasons, uncertainty-induced errors should be taken into account in the process of tsunami assessment with parametric study of the tsunami source model. The element tsunamis calculated by the standard fault models with the errors would be given for the design. Then, the design tsunami can be selected among the element tsunamis with the most significant impact, maximum and minimum water levels, on the site, bearing in mind the possible errors in the numerical calculation system. Finally, the design tsunami is verified by comparison with the run-up heights of historical tsunamis, ensuring that the design tsunami is selected as the highest of all historical and possible future tsunamis at the site.

Laboratory experiments for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a breakwater

In this paper, laboratory data for free surface displacements and velocity fields in front of a caisson breakwater covered with wave-dissipating blocks, together with wave pressures acting on the caisson, are presented and discussed. The core of the breakwater is made of a concrete caisson with a vertical front wall. The caisson is protected by a thick layer of tetrapods and is supported by a rubble mound. The breakwater is placed on the 1/25 impermeable slope. Two types of incident waves are used in the experiments: nonbreaking waves and spilling-type breaking waves. In the breaking wave case, the incident wave breaks offshore before it reaches the breakwater. The velocity data are obtained by using both the Laser Doppler Velocimeter (LDV) and the Electromagnetic Current Meter (EMCM). The raw data are analyzed using a numerical-filtering scheme so that turbulent fluctuations are separated from the phase-dependent wave motions. The vertical profiles of the time-averaged (over a wave period) turbulent velocity components at several vertical cross-sections in front of the breakwater are then analyzed. The spatial variations of the time-averaged turbulence velocity suggest that turbulence is generated inside the protective armor layer and transported into the flow region in front of the breakwater. The wave pressures on the vertical face and on the bottom of the caisson are also reported.

SCALE EFFECT OF WAVE FORCE ON ARMOR UNITS

Tanah Lot Temple is situated in Tabanan Regency - Bali, on the coast of the Indonesian Ocean. Due to continuous wave attack, wind force, and weathering of the rock bank where the Temple stands, abrasion has occured which is more and more threatening the existence of the Temple. Considering that Tanah Lot Temple is a sacred place for the Hindu Balinese people and a place of high cultural value, and also an important tourism, steps to save the Temple are imperative. The Central as well as the Regional Authorities, and also the Bali nese community are very much interested in the effort to keep the Temple intact. Measures have been undertaken to protect both the seaside and land-side banks of the Temple rock bank. This paper only discusses counter measures of the sea —side bank of the Temple.

SCALE EFFECTS ON STABILITY AND WAVE REFLECTION REGARDING ARMOR UNITS

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.

Tsunami Force Acting on Oil Tanks and Buckling Analysis for Tsunami Pressure

Experiments on tsunami force and pressure acting on oil tanks were carried out with scale factor of 1/40. The tsunami concerned is that due to Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai earthquakes and the maximum water level is about 5 m high. If the tanks of which diameter ranges from 5. 8 m to 48. 6 m and weight from 5.8t to 540t are empty, they can be floated due to the 2-m high tsunami flooding. Pressure acting on tanks surrounded by oil protection walls is not uniform and buckling of side wall is affected by the distribution of pressure around the tank. The lowest level of oil in the tank should be kept to prevent the tanks from floating and buckling.