Simona Vasile

Selected factors influencing wear comfort of clothing: case studies

i. Thermo-physiological comfort: achieving a comfortable thermal and humid condition in which the thermo-regulating capacity, the thermal insulation and the moisture-regulating capacity of the garment are considered as a function of environmental conditions (climate) and the working conditions (level of effort). Thermo-physiological comfort is strongly affected by the fabric, the style and the fit.

3D Body Scanning as a Valuable Tool in a Mass Customization Business Model for the Clothing Industry

Previous research showed that garment fit is one of the most important factors that influence clothing comfort. This paper handles the use of 3D body scanning as a tool to obtain better fitting and customized garments. The study involved (1) a survey about the personally perceived body image and fitting problems of respectively 155 and 374 adult men and women and (2) a measuring campaign using 3D body scanners based on the structured white light technology. The campaign provided a database of 3D body images and 180 body measurements of 2500 persons between 3 and 70 years.The results showed that with the exception of obese persons, the body image of most men corresponded to the measured data. Unlike a large number of women who judged themselves rather negatively. Especially women mentioned fitting problems at the level of the waist and hips. The analysis of the 3D data indicated that people having similar 1D dimensions often have different body shapes. Also, significant differences were noted between the results of the measurement campaign in 1990 and the one in 2013. Furthermore, the results demonstrated that age or certain professions influence body shape. The results of this study yielded in new size tables for the average population of men and women in different 4 different age categories and avatars in each available size.

Practical considerations of the FTT device for fabric comfort evaluation

The Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) is a device used to measure fabric handle properties. Since the device is considerably new in the market, no standard is available for now and the only reference for users is the brief guidelines by the manufacturer. Having done the experiments for more than 100 types of samples on FTT, the gathered experiences are reported in this paper including the handling of the device, possible analysis to be performed with the FTT data and other possible tests on fabric comfort related matters. We found that extensive care is needed to verify the accuracy of the device sensors, reference samples must be acquired, and a different test setup is required. The default comfort models also must be controlled using panel testing when testing new types of fabrics, and replaced with own models if needed. Apart from these, the FTT is a very useful addition towards fast and reliable comfort testing.

Analysis and comparison of thickness and bending measurements from Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) and Standard Methods

Abstract Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) is a relatively new device from SDL Atlas to determine touch properties of fabrics. It simultaneously measures 13 touch-related fabric physical properties in four modules that include bending and thickness measurements. This study aims to comparatively analyze the thickness and bending measurements made by the FTT and the common standard methods used in the textile industry. The results obtained with the FTT for 11 different fabrics were compared with that of standard methods. Despite the different measurement principle, a good correlation was found between the two methods used for the assessment of thickness and bending. As FTT is a new tool for textile comfort measurement and no standard yet exists, these findings are essential to determine the reliability of the measurements and how they relate to the well-established standard methods.

FTT comfort indices of ring-spun and air-jet knitted fabrics with post-treatments

The Fabric Touch Tester (FTT) is a relatively new instrument that simultaneously measures several fabric indices and subsequently compute from them primary and global comfort indices (fabric total touch and total feel). The main aim of this research was to investigate the ability of the FTT to discriminate between primary comfort indices of fabrics differentiated by yarn type (i.e. ring-spun yarns and air-jet yarns) and finishing treatments. Polyester-cotton knitted fabrics were produced and their FTT-predicted primary comfort indices (i.e. smoothness, softness and warmth) were compared with those of the finished knits (i.e. dyed and dyed with softening treatments). For the considered fabrics, it was fond that the type of yarn did not lead to statistically significant different comfort indices. Nevertheless, significant differences were found between the comfort indices of the untreated fabrics and the fabrics dyed and treated with a softener regardless the type of yarn. The findings are in line with similar findings from literature where other instruments were used. These first results suggest that FTT is a promising tool that is able to distinguish between samples with small differences induced by finishing treatments.

A new physical method to assess handle properties of fabrics made from wood-based fibers

In this work, the handfeel of fabrics made of wood-based fibers such as viscose, modal and Lyocell was investigated in relation to cotton fabrics applying the Tissue Softness Analyzer (TSA) method in comparison to other classical methods. Two different construction groups of textile were investigated. The validity of TSA in assessing textile softness of these constructions was tested. TSA results were compared to human hand evaluation as well as to classical physical measurements like drape coefficient, ring pull-through and Handle-o-meter, as well as a newer device, the Fabric Touch Tester (FTT). Physical methods as well as human hand assessments mostly agreed on the softest and smoothest range, but showed different rankings in the harder/rougher side fabrics. TSA ranking of softness and smoothness corresponded to the rankings by other physical methods as well as with human hand feel for the basic textile constructions.

Study of the contact resistance of interlaced stainless steel yarns embedded in hybrid woven fabrics

Abstract The contact resistance of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns embedded in a hybrid woven fabric will constitute a problem for electro-conductive textiles under certain circumstances. A high contact resistance can induce hotspots, while a variable contact resistance may cause malfunctioning of the components that are interconnected by the electro-conductive yarns. Moreover, the contact robustness should be preserved over time and various treatments such as washing or abrading should not alter the functioning of the electro-conductive textiles. The electrical resistance developed in the contact point of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns is the result of various factors. The influence of diameter of the electro-conductive stainless steel yarns, the weave pattern, the weft density, and the abrasion on the contact resistance was investigated. Hybrid polyester fabrics were produced according to the design of experiments (DoE) and statistical models were found that describe the variation of the contact resistance with the selected input parameters. It was concluded that the diameter of the stainless steel warp and weft yarns has a statistically significant influence on the contact resistance regardless of the weave. Weft density had a significant influence on the contact resistance but only in case of the twill fabrics. Abrasion led to an increase in contact resistance regardless of the weave pattern and the type of stainless steel yarn that was used. Finally, a combination of parameters that leads to plain and twill fabrics with low contact resistance and robust contacts is recommended.

Adapted Performance Sportswear

Sportswear is based on sizing tables developed on a basis of average body sizes and will therefore not fit population groups with body proportions categorically different from average (e.g. athletes from different sport disciplines, disabled people or people with specific professions). This is not only detrimental for the aesthetics and comfort of the wearer but also in stark contrast with functionality (e.g. orthopedic products; sportswear meant to offer some support, to improve performance or to facilitate fast revalidation; some intelligent textiles for monitoring) and the changing demands of the consumers who lose their tolerance for regular products and have become more and more demanding for garments with a personalized fit. These groups of products require an optimal contact with the skin, they have to fit, otherwise they lose their functionality. The overall objective of the project Adapted Performance Sportswear is to develop comfortable, fitted and functional (sports)wear for population groups with body shapes and proportions different from the average population. The aim of the project is to gain better insight in anthropometric differences (average population versus various groups of athletes) and work out a methodology for translating this information effectively to the garment production. The concept of compression, support and restriction of certain movements by employment of new and innovative elastic materials will be further explored in relation to the fit.

Anthropometric baseD Estimation of adiPoSity - The ADEPS Project

Worldwide, the prevalence of obesity has increased dramatically. Obesity is a condition associated with an increased amount of adipose tissue in the body and is linked to increased morbidity and mortality. In clinical practice and research, determination of body fat percentage (%BF) is not always possible due to limitations in available resources (time, equipment, budget, etc.). Therefore, weight indexes like the body mass index (BMI; body weight (kg)/body height2 (m)) offer a major advantage because they are quick and inexpensive to use. Although the BMI is extensively used, it does not take into account fat or muscle distribution in the body and is unable to differentiate adipose tissue from lean body mass. Hence, it has been suggested that future research in body composition measurement should focus more on body shape and volume rather than body mass. With the advent of 3D body scanning technology, it is possible to obtain accurate and reliable anthropometric measures of an individual within a few minutes. Also, 3D body scans provide information on an individual’s body volume and body shape. From this data, %BF can be calculated using a two component model of the human body based on known densities of fat and fat-free mass. In addition, a 3D digital model of the body allows for visualization of regional fat deposition and division of the total body into segments for more detailed data analysis compared to total body measurements. The ADEPS project builds on experience with 3D body scanning gained during the SMARTFIT project and is looking to merge areas of expertise in medicine, health care and technology. The principal aim of the ADEPS project is to examine the extent to which %BF can be predicted using anthropometric measurements obtained from 3D body scans using a structured white light full body scanner. A comprehensive dataset of anthropometric measurements obtained by 3D body scanning is available within the research unit. From these data, samples of candidate anthropometrical measurements will be selected using a Design of Experiments approach. Regression analysis on sequentially selected datasets will yield anthropometric predictors which will be used to create a predictive model for %BF as calculated from total body volume. This model will then be validated by comparing the anthropometric-based %BF predictions with %BF obtained from the Bod Pod® air-displacement plethysmography system (reference method and gold standard for total body volume measurement). Finally, the regression equation will be converted into a nomogram for routine practical use in healthcare and research practice. The present article describes the research project and its methods and reports on the progress and intermediate results of the ADEPS project.

The Use of 3D Anthropometric Data for Morphotype Analysis to Improve Fit and Grading Techniques - The Results

Apparel Companies can offer well-fitting clothing to only 30 to 40% of their target. When addressing new target groups this is often reduced to merely 10%. As a result they miss an enormous potential and there are many obsolete stocks. The cause is due to the following aspects: • The construction of the basic pattern and the grading to other sizes is based solely on 1D body dimensions. The grading is proportional or rational, but never allometric (taking into account the body proportions). Because the actual morphology of the target is not taken into account the result is a poor fit. Often companies do not dispose of recent data from their target population. • There are very little 3D sizes available. Several European countries have recently executed a 3D scanning campaign to depict their population, but these data are often not accessible to the garment manufacturers. • The industry does not have the necessary knowledge and skills to work with 3D measurements. Therefore opportunities that CAD software offer to optimize the fit of garments to their target audience are not being fully exploited. • Companies do not have the knowledge to grade allometric. Product development (developing the prototype) is currently very expensive and time consuming. This is due to the lack of 3D data of the target groups and the inefficient use of the possibilities of CAD software packages.