T Downes

Fit for purpose? pattern cutting and seams in wearables development

This paper describes how a group of practitioners and researchers are working across disciplines at Nottingham Trent University in the area of Technical Textiles. It introduces strands of ongoing enquiry centred around the development and application of stretch sensors on the body, focusing on how textile and fashion knowledge are being reflexively revealed in the collaborative development of seamful wearable concepts, and on the tensions between design philosophies as revealed by definitions of purpose. We discuss the current research direction of the Aeolia project, which seeks to exploit the literal gaps found in pattern cutting for fitted stretch garments towards experiential forms and potential interactions. Normative goals of fitness for purpose and seamlessness are interrogated and the potential for more integrated design processes, which may at first appear ‘upside down’, is discussed.

Facilitating participatory practice for smart textiles

The area of smart textiles presents an opportunity for collaboration to occur between other fields. However, despite the need for multi-disciplinary work there is a lack of literature to support how disciplines work together within this field. This paper discusses the research proposal submitted as part of the PhD study where a pilot study investigation was undertaken to support the development of the research study and methodology. As a result of this pilot study the research identified that the PhD study will investigate the participatory and relational aspects of individuals working in smart textiles in an effort to support multidisciplinary work in this field. Further the pilot study outlines how an ethnographic approach using participant-observation and inter-personal process recall interviews will be used to conduct the research study.