Tais A. L. Wagemaker

In vivo photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, vitamins, Ginkgo biloba and red algae extracts

The aim of this study was to assess the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, red algae, Porphyra umbilicalis, extracts and combinations of the extract with vitamins and Ginkgo biloba through the use of in vivo preclinical studies. For this study, 4 groups of 4 hairless mice each were treated with topical formulations applied on the dorsum for 5 days as follows: group 1 - control (no treatment); group 2 - application of the formulation F (sunscreen formulation containing only UV filters); group 3 - application of the formulation FA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract); and group 4 - application of the formulation FVGA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract, G. biloba and vitamins A, C and E). The effects of these formulations were evaluated by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index. Apoptosis was detected by immunohistochemical staining with anti-p53 and anti-caspase-3 antibodies. The results showed that the formulations protected the skin from erythema when exposed to UV radiation. The group that received the formulation FVGA presented a greater TEWL than did the other groups, suggesting that this formulation was involved in cell renewal. Immunohistochemical analysis showed that UV radiation caused an increase in the expression of p53 and active caspase-3, confirming that the damage caused by UV radiation exposure led to apoptosis. The application of all formulations studied resulted in a statistically significant reduction in the expression of p53 and caspase-3, with a more pronounced effect observed following treatment with FA. In conclusion, extracts from the red algae P. umbilicalis could be considered effective ingredients to be used in sunscreen formulations. The combination of vitamins A, E, C and G. biloba along with red algae extracts can improve significantly the performance of the sunscreens, preventing UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation. Thus, they should be considered an interesting combination for an effective photoprotective formulation with anti-aging properties.

Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil

Green coffee oil (GCO) has been used in cosmetic formulations due to its emollient and anti‐ageing properties. However, there are insufficient studies about its safety when applied in cosmetic formulations.

Tretinoin-based formulations - influence of concentration and vehicles on skin penetration

Tretinoin is used in the management of acne and it is part of a gold standard treatment for photoaging. It has also been reported as an agent for superficial chemical peeling in highly concentrated formulations with few considerations about skin penetration. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of drug concentration and vehicles currently used on skin penetration of tretinoin. In vitro permeation tests were carried out using Franz diffusion cells fitted with porcine ear skin and 10% aqueous methanol in the receptor compartment. Formulations studied, cream or hydroalcoholic dispersion, containing 0.25%, 1% and 5% of tretinoin were placed in the donor compartment for six hours. Tretinoin concentration in skin layers was measured by high performance liquid chromatography. The largest amount of tretinoin from both vehicles was detected in stratum corneum with significant differences among the three concentrations. The hydroalcoholic dispersion was the best vehicle. Significant amounts of tretinoin were found even in deep layers of epidermis. The formulation with 0.25% tretinoin showed better results when considered the amount of tretinoin on skin in terms of percentage. Finally, skin penetration of tretinoin was influenced by vehicle and concentration of this drug used in formulation.

Unsaponifiable matter from oil of green coffee beans: cosmetic properties and safety evaluation

Abstract Context: Unsaponifiable matter (UM), a fraction of green coffee oil (GCO) contains functional compounds responsible for desirable cosmetic properties such as UV-B absorption. Objectives: To evaluate oil content and sun protection factor (SPF) variability of the two most important species of coffee and, the toxic and cytotoxic effects, as well as cosmetic properties, including antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of UM obtained from green Coffea arabica seed oil. Materials and methods: The safety and potential cosmetic properties of UM extracted from green coffee oil (GCO) were evaluated by the brine shrimp viability and the MTT cytotoxicity assays. The SPF and antioxidant activity were evaluated using in vitro methods. Results: Relevant cytotoxicity was found against keratinocytes for concentrations ≥25 µg/mL and in the brine shrimp assay (LC50 24 µg/mL). Antimicrobial and antioxidant activities (IC50 1448 µg/mL) were low in UM but SPF was 10 times higher than in GCO. Conclusion: UM is a novel potential UV-B absorbent but its use as a cosmetic ingredient should be better considered due to the considerable cytotoxicity shown in the experimental conditions described.

Anacardium occidentale L. extract in cosmetic formulations: benefits for oily skin: Extrato de Anacardium occidentale L. em formulações cosméticas: benefícios para a pele oleosa

Cashew (Annacardium occidentale L, family: Anacardiaceae.) is a native plant from tropical America, and is widely cultivated in Asia and Africa. It has great socioeconomic importance for Brazil and for many other countries. Cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.,) extract (CAE) is rich in tannins, flavonoids, amino acids, anacardic acids and vitamin C, which can provide desirable benefits to oily skin. The aim of this study was to assess the antioxidant activity of CAE and the improvement of oily skin after application of a sunscreen containing this extract. The antioxidant activity of CAE was evaluated by chemioluminescence assay. A sunscreen was developed and added (FC), or not (F), with 3.5% of CAE. Transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum water content, sebum content and skin microrelief were evaluated before and after two and four hours of a single application of the F or FC formulations. FC effects on skin were also evaluated after a 28 day-period of twice daily applications on the faces of 12 volunteers. Skin imaging techniques were used to evaluate skin pores and comedones, and sensory analysis was performed. CAE showed antioxidant activity and the FC formulation controlled the sebum secretion after two and four hours. FC reduced the number of skin pores (24%) and did not increase the number of comedones. These results indicate that CAE is an innovative active ingredient from Brazilian biodiversity with antioxidant activity and efficacy to improve oily skin conditions.

Antioxidant-based topical formulations influence on the inflammatory response of Japanese skin: A clinical study using non-invasive techniques

Graphical abstract Figure. No caption available. ABSTRACT Cutaneous irritants exposure induces an excess of ROS in the skin and can ensue an inflammatory response. Topical antioxidant‐based formulations can help to counteract ROS generation. This study evaluated the influence of antioxidant‐based topical formulations on the inflammatory response of skin, using a combination of in vivo real‐time non‐invasive techniques. Nine test areas were defined on each volar forearm of the 25 Japanese volunteers. Measurements were performed before and after treatment with 15 &mgr;L of a 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution and 15 &mgr;L of the same based formulation or the vehicle with 1% of the antioxidants. Volunteers without antioxidant treatment showed more pronounced erythematous areas. Transepidermal water loss of areas treated with green tea polyphenol (GTP)‐based formulation showed fully recovered skin. Skin barrier damage caused by repeated applications of SDS showed characteristic alterations, detectable by in vivo confocal microscopy such as desquamation, spongiosis and inflammatory infiltrates. The majority of confocal microscopy inflammation signs were found in skin without treatment followed by the vehicle. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Coenzyme Q10, GTP‐ and Resveratrol‐based formulations reduced the anti‐inflammatory cytokines release and attenuated inflammatory signs. The combination of techniques provides results that highlight the importance of antioxidant‐based formulations for rapid skin recovery.

Rheology, clinical efficacy and sensorial of a silicone-based formulation containing pearl extract: Reologia, eficácia clínica e sensorial de uma formulação baseada em silicone contendo extracto de pérola

In traditional Chinese medicine, pearl extract is believed to nourish skin and prevent the aging process. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate rheological characteristics, immediate effects on skin, and sensory properties of a silicone-based cosmetic formulation containing pearl extract. Formulations containing pearl extract or not were submitted to physical stability assays by determinations of its rheological behavior during 28 days storage. Once confirmed the formulation’s stability, they were applied on the volar forearm of 15 healthy female to evaluate skin properties by non-invasive techniques. After a single application, formulations increased the stratum corneum water content. Once applied on the volar forearm for sensory analysis, the volunteer’s majority noted that both formulations improved all the sensory skin attributes, but only the pearl extract formulation has shown the higher scores for all attributes. Results suggested that the silicone-based formulation supplemented with the pearl extract could combine unique sensory properties and effectiveness to better meet consumer’s demand.