Thomas Hochholzer

Pulling Harder than the Hamate Tolerates: Evaluation of Hamate Injuries in Rock Climbing and Bouldering

OBJECTIVE Hamate hook fractures are rare injuries, comprising 2% to 4% of all carpal fractures. Climbing athletes seem to be affected more frequently than others, as they strain the passive and active anatomical structures of their hands and fingers to maximum capacity during training or competing. This stress is transmitted to the hook of the hamate by tightened flexor tendons, which creates high contact pressure to the ulnar margin of the carpal tunnel. Injuries of the hamate hook, caused by contact pressure of the anatomical structures, are rare and occur nearly exclusively during climbing. METHODS We diagnosed 12 athletes with hamate hook fractures who presented with diffuse pain in the wrist joint, which occurred either during or after climbing. Radiographs or computed tomography revealed fractures in the hamate bones in most of the patients; therapy consisted of consequent stress reduction. RESULTS Follow-up investigations found that all athletes were free of symptoms after 10.7 ± 5.1 (6-24) (mean ± standard deviation with range) weeks. Resection of the hamate hook was necessary in 3 patients. All patients regained their preinjury climbing level. CONCLUSION Climbers with an unspecific, diffuse pain in the wrist need to be examined by radiograph and, if radiograph is unclear, computed tomography or magnetic resonance imaging to detect or exclude the diagnosis of hamate fracture in order to avoid severe complications.

Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study

Background: In the past few years, competition climbing has grown in popularity, and younger people are being drawn to the sport. Purpose: While radiographic changes in long-term climbers are known, there are little data available on adolescent climbers. The question arises as to whether climbing at high levels at a young age leads to radiographic changes and possibly an early onset of osteoarthritis of the finger joints. Study Design: Cohort study; Level of evidence, 2. Methods: A total of 19 members of the German Junior National Team (GJNT group) and 18 recreational climbers (RC group) were examined clinically and radiographically in 1999. In 2011, these climbers were re-examined (mean follow-up, 11.3 ± 1.2 years). Radiographs were evaluated using a standard protocol, searching for physiological adaptations such as cortical thickness of the middle phalanx and an increased adopted Barnett-Nordin index, as well as for early-onset osteoarthritic changes of the hand. In contrast to the Kellgren-Lawrence scale, subchondral sclerosis was added to the group of physiological, adaptive stress reactions and was not defined as osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis was defined by a Kellgren-Lawrence grade ≥2. Results: Overall, 15 of 19 (follow-up rate, 78.9%) climbers in the GJNT group and 13 of 18 in the RC group (follow-up rate, 72.2%), with a mean age of 26.8 years, were examined at the 11-year follow-up. Five climbers (33%) in the GJNT group presented with a decreased range of motion for the finger joints, in contrast to only 1 climber (8%) in the RC group. Radiographic stress reactions of the hand were found in 80% of the GJNT group and 46% of the RC group, including cortical hypertrophy (GJNT: 73%; RC: 23%), subchondral sclerosis (GJNT: 80%; RC: 31%), a broadened proximal interphalangeal joint base (GJNT: 67%; RC: 38%), and a broadened distal interphalangeal joint base (GJNT: 53%; RC: 31%). Training intensity in 1999 and body weight in 1999 were significant for the development of radiographic stress reactions in 2011 (P < .05 for both). Signs of early-stage osteoarthritis were seen in 6 climbers: 4 (27%) in the GJNT group and 2 (15%) in the RC group. Significant statistical influences for the development of early-onset osteoarthritis were found for overall total training years (P = .024), use of campus board training in 1999 (P = .033), and climbing level (P = .030). Conclusion: One-quarter of climbers who performed at a high level in their youth showed a “mild” form of osteoarthritis (Kellgren-Lawrence grade 2). In analyzing the training regimens of our climbers for longer than 10 years, we conclude that intensive finger training (eg, campus board training) can lead to early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand. We also demonstrate that a high Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) climbing level correlates with the risk for early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand and therefore must be seen as a risk factor for developing early-onset osteoarthritis of the finger joints.

High-altitude mountaineering made safer

Mountains all over the world are attracting a steadily growing number of visitors due to the increasing number of cheap flights; the construction of new roads, railways, and cable cars; and commercial offers of trekking tours and expeditions to attempt even the worlds highest peaks. However, one must not forget that mountains are typically inhospitable areas characterised by cold and hypoxic environments and rapidly changing weather and track conditions associated with a relatively high risk of accidents and emergencies. Beside the objective hazards, subjective hazards, for example physical fitness and health status, mountaineering skills, and equipment, contribute substantially to the risk. Whereas in some regions, for example the Alps, rescue operations and medical emergency interventions can be performed rapidly and effectively, this is absolutely not the case in most of the very remote areas and on very high mountains. Therefore, the understanding of the risk associated with the various modes of mountaineering as well as knowledge about how to optimise prevention is of the utmost importance. Ultimately, it is the informed mountaineer who has to decide whether the risks are acceptable or not. Continuing joint efforts of scientists, medical and alpine institutions, expedition organisers, and mountaineers will help to make high-altitude mountaineering safer.