W. Kendall Melville

Distribution of breaking waves at the ocean surface

Surface waves play an important role in the exchange of mass, momentum and energy between the atmosphere and the ocean. The development of the wave field depends on wind, wave–wave and wave–current interactions and wave dissipation owing to breaking, which is accompanied by momentum fluxes from waves to currents. Wave breaking supports air–sea fluxes of heat and gas, which have a profound effect on weather and climate. But wave breaking is poorly quantified and understood. Here we present measurements of wave breaking, using aerial imaging and analysis, and provide a statistical description of related sea-surface processes. We find that the distribution of the length of breaking fronts per unit area of sea surface is proportional to the cube of the wind speed and that, within the measured range of the speed of the wave fronts, the length of breaking fronts per unit area is an exponential function of the speed of the front. We also find that the fraction of the ocean surface mixed by breaking waves, which is important for air–sea exchange, is dominated by wave breaking at low velocities and short wavelengths.

The velocity field under breaking waves: coherent structures and turbulence

Digital particle image velocimetry (DPIV) measurements of the velocity eld under breaking waves in the laboratory are presented. The region of turbulent fluid directly generated by breaking is too large to be imaged in one video frame and so an ensemble-averaged representation of the flow is built up from a mosaic of image frames. It is found that breaking generates at least one coherent vortex that slowly propagates downstream at a speed consistent with the velocity induced by its image in the free surface. Both the kinetic energy of the flow and the vorticity decay approximately as t 1 . The Reynolds stress of the turbulence also decays as t 1 and is, within the accuracy of the measurements, everywhere negative, consistent with downward transport of streamwise momentum. Estimates of the mometum flux from waves to currents based on the measurements of the Reynolds stress are consistent with earlier estimates. The implications of the measurements for breaking in the eld are discussed. Based on geometrical optics and wave action conservation, we suggest that the presence of the breaking-induced vortex provides an explanation for the suppression of short waves by breaking. Finally, in Appendices, estimates of the majority of the terms in the turbulent kinetic energy budget are presented at an early stage in the evolution of the turbulence, and comparisons with independent acoustical measurements of breaking are presented.

Surface gravity wave effects in the oceanic boundary layer large-eddy : simulation with vortex force and stochastic breakers

The wind-driven stably stratified mid-latitude oceanic surface turbulent boundary layer is computationally simulated in the presence of a specified surface gravity-wave field. The gravity waves have broad wavenumber and frequency spectra typical of measured conditions in near-equilibrium with the mean wind speed. The simulation model is based on (i) an asymptotic theory for the conservative dynamical effects of waves on the wave-averaged boundary-layer currents and (ii) a boundary-layer forcing by a stochastic representation of the impulses and energy fluxes in a field of breaking waves. The wave influences are shown to be profound on both the mean current profile and turbulent statistics compared to a simulation without these wave influences and forced by an equivalent mean surface stress. As expected from previous studies with partial combinations of these wave influences, Langmuir circulations due to the wave-averaged vortex force make vertical eddy fluxes of momentum and material concentration much more efficient and non-local (i.e. with negative eddy viscosity near the surface), and they combine with the breakers to increase the turbulent energy and dissipation rate. They also combine in an unexpected positive feedback in which breaker-generated vorticity seeds the creation of a new Langmuir circulation and instigates a deep strong intermittent downwelling jet that penetrates through the boundary layer and increases the material entrainment rate at the base of the layer. These wave effects on the boundary layer are greater for smaller wave ages and higher mean wind speeds.

Energy Dissipation by Breaking Waves

Abstract Recent field measurements by Agrawal et al. have provided evidence of a shallow surface mixed layer in which the rate of dissipation due to turbulence is one to two orders of magnitude greater than that in a comparable turbulent boundary layer over a rigid wall. It is shown that predictions by Phillips of the energy lost by breaking surface waves in an equilibrium regime and laboratory measurements by Rapp and Melville of the mixing and turbulence due to breaking together lead to estimates of the enhanced dissipation rate and the thickness of the surface layer consistent with the field measurements. Wave-age-dependent scaling of the dissipation layer is proposed. Laboratory measurements of dissipation rates in both unsteady and quasi-steady breaking waves are examined. It is shown that an appropriately defined dimensionless rate of dissipation in unsteady breaking waves is not constant, but increases with a measure of the wave slope. Differences between dissipation rates in quasi-steady and unste...

The oceanic boundary layer driven by wave breaking with stochastic variability. Part 1. Direct numerical simulations

We devise a stochastic model for the effects of breaking waves and fit its distribution functions to laboratory and field data. This is used to represent the space–time structure of momentum and energy forcing of the oceanic boundary layer in turbulence-resolving simulations. The aptness of this breaker model is evaluated in a direct numerical simulation (DNS) of an otherwise quiescent fluid driven by an isolated breaking wave, and the results are in good agreement with laboratory measurements. The breaker model faithfully reproduces the bulk features of a breaking event: the mean kinetic energy decays at a rate approaching

Bubble entrainment by breaking waves and their influence on optical scattering in the upper ocean

t^{-1}

Laboratory measurements of the generation and evolution of Langmuir circulations

, and a long-lived vortex (eddy) is generated close to the water surface. The long lifetime of this vortex (more than 50 wave periods) makes it effective in energizing the surface region of oceanic boundary layers. Next, a comparison of several different DNS of idealized oceanic boundary layers driven by different surface forcing (i.e. constant current (as in Couette flow), constant stress, or a mixture of constant stress plus stochastic breakers) elucidates the importance of intermittent stress transmission to the underlying currents. A small amount of active breaking, about 1.6% of the total water surface area at any instant in time, significantly alters the instantaneous flow patterns as well as the ensemble statistics. Near the water surface a vigorous downwelling–upwelling pattern develops at the head and tail of each three-dimensional breaker. This enhances the vertical velocity variance and generates both negative- and positive-signed vertical momentum flux. Analysis of the mean velocity and scalar profiles shows that breaking effectively increases the surface roughness

Highlights of Coastal Waves 1996

z_o

Inertial scaling of dissipation in unsteady breaking waves

by more than a factor of 30; for our simulations

Pulse-to-Pulse Coherent Doppler Measurements of Waves and Turbulence

z_o/\lambda \,{\approx}\, 0.04