William R. Dally

A modeling investigation of the breaking wave roller with application to cross‐shore currents

A mathematical model is developed for the creation and evolution of the aerated region, or “roller,” that appears as a wave breaks and passes through the surf zone. The model, which calculates the rollers cross-sectional area, is based on a short-wave averaged energy balance. The vertically integrated energy flux is split between the turbulent motion in the roller and the underlying organized wave motion, and the dissipation of energy is assumed to take place in the shear layer that exists at the interface between the two flow regimes. Calibration of the roller model is done by numerically solving equations for the cross-shore balances of mass and momentum, with roller contributions included, and then optimizing predictions of depth-averaged cross-shore currents. The laboratory data of Hansen and Svendsen [1984] for setup and cross-shore currents, driven by regular waves breaking on a planar beach, are used to set the roller models fitting coefficient. The model is then validated utilizing five additional laboratory data sets found in the literature. Results indicate that employing stream function theory in calculating integral properties for the organized wave motion (wave celerity, and mass, momentum, and energy fluxes) significantly improves agreement as compared to results generated using linear wave theory. Using the roller model and stream function theory, root-mean-square error for the mean current is typically 19%. The bed stress is found to play a negligible role in the cross-shore mean momentum balance, relative to the radiation stress, setup, roller momentum flux, and convective acceleration of the current.

A MODEL FOR BREAKER DECAY ON BEACHES

This report will update the coastal zone practitioner on the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) as it affects the implementation of manmade changes along the coastline. It is our intent to place in proper perspective this fast-changing and often difficult to interpret national program. Readers will achieve an overall understanding of the NFIP on the coast, and will be in a position to apply the programs requirements in their efforts. We will begin with a history of the application of the NFIP to the coastal zone. The history of the problems encountered will lead into current regulations, methodologies, and the changes the Federal Emergency Management Agency plans for the future.The spatial variability of the nearshore wave field is examined in terms of the coherence functions found between five closely spaced wave gages moored off the North Carolina coast in 17 meters depth. Coherence was found to rapidly decrease as the separation distance increased, particularly in the along-crest direction. This effect is expressed as nondimensional coherence contours which can be used to provide an estimate of the wave coherence expected between two spatial positions.Prediction of depositional patterns in estuaries is one of the primary concerns to coastal engineers planning major hydraulic works. For a well-mixed estuary where suspended load is the dominant transport mode, we propose to use the divergence of the distribution of the net suspended load to predict the depositional patterns. The method is applied to Hangzhou Bay, and the results agree well qualitatively with measured results while quantitatively they are also of the right order of magnitude.

TRANSFORMATION OF RANDOM BREAKING WAVES ON SURF BEAT

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.

UNDISTORTED FROUDE MODEL FOR SURF ZONE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

More than 150 tests have been analyzed in order to describe the dynamically stable profiles of rock slopes and gravel beaches under wave attack. Relationships between profile parameters and boundary conditions have been established. These relationships have been used to develop a computer program. This program is able to predict the profiles of slopes with an arbitrary shape under varying wave conditions, such as those found in storm surges and during the tidal period.This paper investigates the utility of winds obtainable from a numerical weather prediction model for driving a spectral ocean-wave model in an operational mode. Wind inputs for two operational spectral wave models were analyzed with respect to observed winds at three locations in the Canadian east coast offshore. Also, significant wave heights obtainable from the two spectral models were evaluated against measured wave data at these locations. Based on this analysis, the importance of appropriate wind specification for operational wave analysis and forecasting is demonstrated.

THE ROLE OF ROLLERS IN THE SURF ZONE CURRENTS

A special reflecting wall 12 m long and 2.1 m high was built off the beach at Reggio Calabria, and 30 wave gauges were assembled before the wall and were connected to an electronic station on land. It was possible to observe the reflection of wind waves generated by a very stable wind over a fetch of 10 Km. The experiment aimed to verify the general closed solution for the wave group mechanics (Boccotti, 1988, 1989), for the special case of the wave reflection.Significant features on Wadden Sea wave climate are evaluated in respect of the state of the art. Main emphasis was laid on an analysis of the governing boundary conditions of local wave climate in island sheltered Wadden Sea areas with extensions being sufficient for local wind wave growth. Explanatory for significant wave heights a reliable parametrization of local wave climate has been evaluated by using generally available data of water level and wind measurements.

THE INFLUENCE OF ROLLERS ON LONGSHORE CURRENTS

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

Analysis of a 10-Year Record of Nearshore Directional Wave Spectra and Implications to Littoral Processes Research and Engineering Practice

ABSTRACT Montoya, L.H. and Dally, W.R., 2016. Analysis of a 10-year record of nearshore directional wave spectra and implications to littoral processes research and engineering practice. Slightly more than 10 years (August 28, 2001, to October 28, 2011) of high-resolution directional wave spectra were measured by an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler installed in the nearshore at Spessard Holland North Beach Park in Melbourne Beach, Florida. Analysis of the record yields an average wave power of 17.6 MW/m of shoreline but with a standard deviation of 22.5 MW/m. Cumulative annual wave power ranged from 43,455 to 93,722 MWh/m, and the annual storm count was between 3 and 14. The mean spectrum for the entire record shows an almost symmetric directional distribution of wave energy centered on the shore-normal direction, which is somewhat unexpected considering that the net longshore transport in the region is definitively N-S. Partitioning the data into shore-normal, NE, and SE windows shows that most wave energy approaches from the SE, again contrary to expectations. The rigorously integrated mean longshore forcing of wave radiation stress, Sxy, is slightly N-S (7.2 N/m) but has a standard deviation of 77.2 N/m. Computing a cumulative average through the record indicates that it takes between 4 and 5 years for the net magnitude and direction of Sxy to be conclusively revealed. Using significant wave height, peak wave period, and mean wave direction to estimate Sxy yields values nominally 42% greater than the integrated results, confirming that fully directional spectra should be used in both study of littoral processes and coastal engineering practice. Finally, the supposition that the wind plays an important role in driving longshore currents and consequently longshore transport is tested. However, analysis of more than 4 years of wind data collected at the site reveals a mean longshore wind stress that is essentially balanced (i.e. nil).

CLOSED-FORM SOLUTIONS FOR THE PROBABILITY DENSITY OF WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SURF ZONE

The Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX), is an international basic research programme concerned with full-scale measurements, analysis, modelling and simulation in test basins of 3-dimensional seas. The research is carried out in order to assess the significance of 3-dimensional sea states in engineering applications. The first phase of the programme full scale wave measurements in the North Atlantic Ocean was performed at a site and time that had a high probability of encountering severe sea states. The present publication shows examples of measured bi-modal directional sea spectra obtained with the WAVESCAN buoy and directional sea spectra measured with an airborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR). Directional spectra of gravity waves are obtained with the SAR both in open waters and below an ice cover. Further work is needed in order to verify SAR-measurements with in-situ observations. In-situ measured directional spectra are also compared with hindcast spectra from the 3G-WAM model. Hindcast significant wave heights were found to be lower than the in-situ measurements.The littoral drift model developed at DHI and ISVA, see Deigaard et al. (1986b) has been extended to include the effects of the irregularity of the waves, of a coastal current and a wind acting on the surf zone. Further, a mathematical model to simulate the near-shore current pattern along a barred coast with rip channels has been developed. The influence on the littoral drift of the irregularity of waves, wind, coastal current, and rip channels is discussed. It is concluded that irregularity of waves and presence of rip channels must be considered while coastal current and wind action are of minor importance.At present, the Prodhoe Bay oil field in Alaska contributes a substantial amount of the domestic oil production of the United States. Oil is also expected to be present on the continental shelf of Alaska, and it is estimated that approximatedly 28 percent of the total U. S. reserve is located beneath the shallow ice covered seas of the Alaskan continental shelf. To expolre and to exploit these oil rich resources, engineers are confronted with hostile oceanographic conditions such as high tides, waves, strong currents and sea ice. The same area is also rich in fishery resources. Being one of the most productive fishing grounds in the nothern Pacific, the potential ecological impact due to an oil spill is of a major concern. This paper describes the methologies used for the development of a modeling system for the oil risk analysis. The system is designed with generality in mind so it can be used for other coastal areas. The development of three dimensional models used in the modeling system described here have been published in the earlier International Coastal Engineering Conferences (Liu and Leendertse, 1982, 1984, 1986) and a report published recently by RAND (Liu and Leendertse, 1987). In the oil-spill risk analysis, these three dimensional hydrodynamic models are coupled to a two-dimensional stochastic weather model and an oil weathering model.The two projects (LUBIATOWO 79 and LUBIATOWO 86) were aimed at study pore pressure behaviour in natural sand bed in the coastal zone of the Baltic sea under the action of storm waves. During both projects, the wave induced pore pressures at the various levels in the sea bed were measured. The collected data were used to verify the applicability of the various theoretical approaches. In the conclusion, the range of the application of the particular analytical method is given.The rapid recession of the shingle bank of Hurst Beach (up to 3.5m/yr) makes it an excellent natural laboratory for the study of the factors which influence the stability of shingle beaches. Studies have included: the significance of long period, high energy, swell waves the classification and quantification of overwash processes run-up and seepage characteristics the effect of settlement of the underlying strata and the implications for practices in shingle nourishment. The studies have revealed the distinctive character of shingle beaches as compared with the more fully researched sand beaches. More detailed research on shingle beaches is justified particularly in relation to (i) the run-up characteristics including its interaction with swash cusps and (ii) the influence of the subsidiary sand fraction on the beach characteristics.Environmental assessment, engineering studies and designs were completed for a new 26.5 m3/s seawater intake system in the Persian Gulf. The original intake facility consisted of a curved, 60m breakwater with one end attached to the shoreline, a settling basin immediately adjacent to the shoreline and dredged to a maximum depth of approximately 5m, and a pumphouse structure located on shore such that the seaward wall formed one side of the settling basin. The facility located on an island in the Gulf, which served multiple seawater uses, had experienced both structural and operational problems, the latter consisting principally of excessive ingestion of sediment and seaweed. These factors plus the requirement for additional demands for seawater beyond plant capacity caused the owner to initiate a study of alternative intake systems, produce a design for the most effective solution and construct the new intake system.A two-dimensional wave prediction model suitable for use on personal computers is described. The model requires the twodimensional time-dependent wind field as input. Output consists of wave height, wave period, and wave direction estimates at all grid points on a computational grid representing an enclosed or semi-closed basin. Model predictions compare favorably with observations from a wave research tower in Lake Erie. A formula is provided to estimate how long a model simulation would take on a personal computer given the surface area of the computational domain, the grid size, and the computer clock speed.Cullera Bay is a neritic ecosystem placed on the Spanish Mediterranean Littoral largely influenced by the Jucar River, that brings about lower salinities than surrounding waters, and broad variations of its values. An extensive research, with 9 samplings throughout the year, was carried out, measuring both physical and chemical parameters, and the planktonic communities. The trophic status of the ecosystem, the spatial and temporal variations of the nutrients and the planktonic communities were studied, evaluating the influence of the river loads and the littoral dynamics. Some essential basis to allow a suitable emplacement of waste waters disposals along the Valencian littoral are set up in order to minimize the gradual eutrophication of this coast.In the last two years a whole of studies was realized in order to determine precise solutions to the regeneration of Villajoyosas beach, in the Spanish mediterranean coast. Investigations were carried out to the surrounding coastal areas based in field investigations and laboratory analyses of the beaches materials.

PROBABILISTIC MODELING OF LONG-TERM WAVE CLIMATE

A study of alternatives including a shoreline evolution numerical modelization has been carried out in order to both diagnose the erosion problem at the beaches located between Cambrils Harbour and Pixerota delta (Tarragona, Spain) and select nourishment alternatives.

Evaluating the Impact of Beach Nourishment on Surfing: Surf City, Long Beach Island, New Jersey, U.S.A.

ABSTRACT Dally, W.R. and Osiecki, D.A., 2018. Evaluating the impact of beach nourishment on surfing: Surf City, Long Beach Island, New Jersey, U.S.A. Utilizing the Cornell University Long and Intermediate WAVE (COULWAVE) Boussinesq wave model, the effect of the construction of a conventional beach nourishment project in Surf City, New Jersey, on the quality of the local surf break is examined in detail. A 20-year-long nearshore synthetic wave record is first developed for use in creating a monthly wave climate “almanac” so that typical seasonal effects on surf-break quality can be objectively portrayed. The wave model is then run with preconstruction bathymetric conditions, and with three postconstruction surveys performed in subsequent months. Construction of the nourishment project was found to affect the quality of the surf break adversely by (1) compression of the surf zone, (2) an increase in the occurrence of “closeouts,” (3) a shift in breaker type toward collapsing breakers, particularly during high tide, and (4) an increase in wave reflection—findings that are in agreement with anecdotal testimony offered by local surfers. On the basis of modeling results conducted using the sequential postconstruction surveys and the wave almanac, it appears to have required nominally 21–22 months for the surf-break quality to return to preproject conditions. A paradigm shift in the design and construction of beach nourishment projects in the United States is required if such effects are to be avoided, and several options are offered and discussed.