Youngjoo Na

ASSESSING WRINKLING USING IMAGE ANALYSIS AND REPLICATE STANDARDS

This paper describes the application of digital image processing to the grading of fabric wrinkle recovery. Degrees of fabric wrinkling of AATCC replicate standards are analyzed using a combination of texture and profile analysis techniques. Results in dicate that wrinkling can be reliably measured using gray level and surface statistics, co-occurrence analysis, and power spectral density of image profiles.

Interactive Design Recommendation Using Sensor Based Smart Wear and Weather WebBot

Analysis of a customer’s sensibility preferences is an important strategy in a market that is becoming increasingly more customer-oriented. In this paper, the interactive design recommendation using the sensor based smart wear and the weather WebBot (DRS-WB) is proposed. The proposed method is increasing the efficiency of merchandising for human-oriented sensibility product designs. Development of the DRS-WB included a user interface and collaborative filtering of textile and fashion designs to satisfy the user’s needs. Collaborative filtering is used to recommend designs of interest for users based on predictive relationships discovered between the current user and other previous users. Current weather information is simultaneously acquired from the sensor based smart wear and the weather WebBot. The sensor based smart wear is fabricated as a way of non-tight and comfortable style fitting for the curves of the human body based on clothes to wear in daily life. The design sample of the smart wear uses basic stretch materials and is designed to sustain its wearable property. The weather WebBot uses a database of weather forecast information extracted from the Web pages and RSS (Really Simple Syndication) feed of the Korea Meteorological Administration and collects information from the various links off the main URL. Information is stored in a database using XML query for collecting effective weather data and processed as a form of XML through extracting and exchanging the information. These signals are then transmitted to the connected DRS-WB. This information can be easily monitored in real time. Textile designs and fashion designs were incorporated into the survey. Pictures of fashion design details such as collar type, sleeve type, skirt type, skirt length, and color tone were evaluated in terms of sensibility. Finally, this paper suggests empirical applications to verify the adequacy and validity of this system.

A Fabric Sound Evaluation System for Totally Auditory-Sensible Textiles

In order to provide a fabric sound evaluation system for designing auditory-sensible fabrics, sound parameters are obtained, including the level pressure of total sound (LPT), sound color factors (ΔL and Δf), three coefficients (ARC, ARF, ARE) of autoregressive models based on the fast fourier transform spectrum, loudness(Z) and sharpness(Z) from Zwickers psychoacoustic models, and mechanical properties from KES values for wool suiting fabrics. As psychophysical characteristics, subjective sensations of softness, loud ness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness of the fabric sounds are evaluated by the free modulus magnitude estimation. Tropical wool has the lowest loudness(Z) and the highest ΔL value among the fabrics. Melton, a thicker and heavier woolen, shows a trend similar to saxony and flannel for sound parameters. Wool suiting fabrics have higher scores for loudness and highness rather than clearness and pleasant ness, except for tropical wool, which has the highest scores for pleasantness among the fabrics. Using the modified stepwise regression of Kawabata, all sensations are predicted by both sound parameters and mechanical properties. The sound sensation of wool suiting fabrics is related mainly to tensile, surface, and shear properties in mechanical measure ments and with autoregressive coefficients as sound parameters.

Sound absorption of multiple layers of nanofiber webs and the comparison of measuring methods for sound absorption coefficients

Textile sound absorbents are getting more and more popular on the market as noise reduction is a major requirement for human comfort today. In this paper we focus on a new textile material for sound absorption, by investigating the acoustic characteristics of nanofibers. Through impedance tube method we measured the sound absorption coefficients of multiple layers of nanofiber webs and compared those with microfiber materials per fabric weight. We also examined the effect of layers of nanofiber webs on regularfiber knitted fabric on sound absorption. The test results showed that the sound absorption coefficients of nanofiber layers were superior that of microfiber fabrics in the frequency range 1000–4000 Hz. In this range, the sound absorption of nanofiber webs improved with numbers of layers. Also, adding nanofiber web plies to regularfiber fleece increased the sound absorption coefficient with 85 % at 4000 Hz. From our results we could observe differences in the sound absorption coefficients between two test methods, which are higher absorbance coefficients through the reverberation room method than impedance tube method.

Quantifying the Handle and Sensibility of Woven Silk Fabrics

This paper attempts to identify the handle and sensibility of woven silk fabrics for neckties to determine any relationships between them and purchasing preferences. Male and female students evaluate the specimens with a semantic differential scale of handle and sensibility adjectives: twenty-one hand adjectives are grouped as four—“surface sense,” “thermal sense,” “flexibility sense,” and “dryness sense”—and twenty-five sensibility adjectives are grouped as four—“modern,” “classic,” “character,” and “natural”—through factor analysis. Fabrics with a “flat” and “warm” touch result in a classic sensibility, but those that feel “flat” and “cool” represent a modern feeling. The “rough” fabrics with “warm” touch are natural, but those with a “cool” touch show character. Fabrics evaluated as high in handle and purchasing preferences for neckties show a “soft” and “flat” touch, and display modern and classic sensibilities. These relations between handle, sensibility, and fabric type are shown in image diagrams.

Effects of Basic Weave Differences in Silk Fabric and Yarn Type Variations in Satin Weave on Sound Parameters

In order to investigate the effects of basic weaves and yarn types on the sound characteristics of silk fabrics, seven samples are woven to the same density, their rustling sounds are recorded, and their sound spectra are obtained from FIT analysis. Physical sound parameters (LPT, Δ L, Δf, ARC) and Zwickers psychoacoustic parameters of loudness(z), sharpness(z), roughness( z), and fluctuation strength(z) are calculated from the sound spectra. The basic weave types change the amplitudes of the sound spectra, while the weft yarn type in the satin weave determines the shapes of the spectra. Loud ness( z) varies with weave type. Of all the silk specimens, twill fabric has the highest loudness(z) due to its high LPT and ARC, but satin fabric with filament yarn has the lowest loudness(z) due to low LPT and ARC. In basic weaves, loudness(z) varies, but sharpness( z), roughness(z), and fluctuation strength(z) are similar. As for yarn types, loudness(z) is increased by noil yarn, sharpness(z) by spun yarn, and roughness(z) by highly twisted yarn, compared with filament yarns.

Investigating the sustainability of the Korean textile and fashion industry

Purpose – Fashion and textile industry has confronted to participate with the sustainable industry and society proactively not by the government regulations, but by the shareholders or consumers driven with corporate social responsibility. The purpose of this paper is to consider methods applied for the sustainability of products according to Korean domestic fashion and textile companies and clothing types and to investigate the limitation of current sustainability methods of companies. Design/methodology/approach – The study used document analysis and case studies of 396 companies. The study looked into newspapers, monthly magazines, and publications of fashion companies and internet web sites of almost every possible type that have been issued to date and analyzed the previous studies as well. Findings – The companies’ strategies are of three groups, the uses of environmental friendly materials: 36.9 percent (natural fibers, recycled fibers and biodegradable fibers), apparel reuse: 4.5 percent (remodeli...

Relationship between the preference styles of music and fashion and the similarity of their sensibility

Purpose – The recent influence of the mass media communication emphasized the visionary image of the music and eventually the close relationship between the music and fashion industries was formed. Consumers who share a similar taste in music could relate to each other more actively, and as a result, they began to develop similar aesthetic views and emotions. From this matter, the aim of this research is to conduct a survey that would go over a variety of music and fashion preferences of the consumers in order to analyze the relationship between the two. The main objective was to investigate how strongly the preference styles of music and fashion match each other and find similarity of their sensibility.Design/methodology/approach – The participants were directed to choose their preference styles of music and fashion, grade their interest in music and fashion and evaluate their sensibilities by grading their feelings about ten polar paired adjectives.Findings – There indeed is a close relationship between...

FDRAS: Fashion Design Recommender Agent System Using the Extraction of Representative Sensibility and the Two-Way Combined Filtering on Textile

It is important for the strategy of product sales to investigate the customer’s sensibility and preference degree in the environment that the process of material development has been changed focusing on the customer center. In this paper we identify collaborative filtering and content-based filtering as independent technologies for information filtering. We propose the Fashion Design Recommender Agent System of textile design applying two-way combined filtering technologies as one of methods in the material development centered on customer’s representative sensibility and preference. We build the database founded on the sensibility adjective to develop textile design by extracting the representative sensibility adjective form user’s sensibility and preference about textiles. Our system recommends textile designs to a customer who has a similar propensity about textile. Ultimately, this paper suggests empirical applications to verify the adequacy and the validity on this system.

Creating User-Adapted Design Recommender System through Collaborative Filtering and Content Based Filtering

Information filtering is an important technology for the creation of recommender system, which are adapted to the user’s needs. In this paper we identify collaborative filtering and content-based filtering as independent technologies for information filtering. We propose the user-adapted design recommender system of textile design applying both technologies as one of methods in the material development centered on customer’s sensibility and preference. Ultimately, this paper suggests empirical applications to verify the adequacy and the validity on this system with the development of design recommender system.