Yuichi Iwagaki

WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AND WAVE GROUPING IN SURF ZONE

The cost of many coastal projects is often increased by the expensive beach repair and maintenance required to remedy the destabilising effects of structures on the adjoining coastline. Physical and/or mathematical models have been developed for use in planning these projects in order to predict and quantify the effects of marine sediment transport on the coastal topography. Such models need to be calibrated against prototype data and one method of gauging volumetric sediment movement is by successive bathymetric/ topographic profiting surveys which are performed seasonally and annually. Since large quantities of sediment are related to small changes in bed elevation it is clear that this profiling needs to be done with the utmost precision* The areas most affected extend from the beach through the surf zone to water depths of about 25 metres. The surf zone in particular is a dynamic and hostile area which falls outside the traditional activities of both the hydrographic and land surveyors. Consequently innovative methods, deficient in sound survey principle and practice, have often been pursued in this area without any attempt being made to assess the tolerance on the data. This paper attempts to show that it is possible to produce reliable and verifiable results to the required accuracy by using conventional survey equipment and techniques, also by taking the necessary precautions against the many possible sources of survey error. The procedures and techniques described have evolved from NRIOs involvement over the past decade in major projects at Richards Bay, Durban, Koeberg and in False Bay. The results of a recent verification investigation are fully reported in this paper.Besides wave impact forces, erosion of the inner side of a sea dike is a serious cause of destruction. Therefore, wave run-up and overtopping effects have to be considered with respect to the safety of a dike. Strong relations were found between both these influences (TAUTENHAIN et.al., 1980, 1981, 1982), based on experiments in a wave flume and using an energy conservation concept. However, under natural conditions, an oblique wave approach has to be considered. This paper deals with the influence of wave direction on wave runup on a smooth dike slope in order to provide a basis for calculating the overtopping rates for both regular and irregular waves.This paper describes a study carried out at Port Taranaki, New Plymouth, New Zealand to determine ships track and motions at the port entrance. The results of the study being used to establish the extent (plan area) and optimum depth of proposed capital dredging works. The time lapse photographic technique, incorporating reference levels and bearings in each frame, used to record vessels entering and leaving the port is described, Maximum increases in ships draft due to sea conditions are given.N.S.L. program is a finite-difference code for two dimensionnal flows with a free surface in a vertical plane. Basic equations are Navier-Stokes Equations with a simple simulation of turbulent effects by an eddy viscosity coefficient related to the mixing length and the mean velocity gradient. Theses equations are solved in a variable domain in time. The main features of the numerical method are presented. Some comparisons with theoretical solutions give a good validation of the code both in linear and non linear cases. Other examples of application are given.The design of the coal unloading terminal in an unprotected environment created the need to develop design criteria as well as operational and structural systems that will respond toproblems arising from unloading bulk in the open sea. As there was no known precedent of an unprotected unloading terminal, the criteria was based on experience in existing offshore loadina terminals, laboratory tests and engineering judgement.A large number of man-made tidal swimming pools (two examples are shown in Figure 1) exist along the South African coast. They are usually situated on rocky outcrops in the close vicinity of popular sandy bathing beaches to provide protected bathing conditions in these areas mainly for children and elderly people. Some tidal pools, especially along rocky coast, provide the only safe bathing facilities. Besides affording protection against waves and surfzone currents the pools provide protection from sharks. A large number of tidal pools were built during the early 1950s along the Natal South Coast after the occurrence of a relatively large number of shark attacks on bathers on that coast. The semi-diurnal tide with a range of about 1,5 m along the South African coast makes it possible for pools to be built such that water replenishment can occur during every high-water (approximately every 12 hours) during both neap and spring tide periods. Presently, there exists a great need for more tidal pools as part of the demand for more recreational facilities along the South African coast. However, no information on design criteria could be found in the literature.The objective of this research is to study the prediction method of hurricane waves around this island, especially in the Taiwan Strait. The paper describes the prediction of hurricane waves used by Bretchneiders (1976) Method and finds out the predicted waves are different from measured waves, therefore the Bretchneider predicted model is modified by the authors and then the modified model is applied to predict waves again. It is found out that predicted waves match well with the measured waves. The results of the modified Bretchneider model are compared with those of the Ijima tracing method and find out the former is better than the latter. The second part is to apply the modified model to predict the extreme value of wave heights and compute the worse hurricane wave condition of the surrounding sea area around island, within recent score year (1959-1978). The calculated sites are Chu-Wei, Nan-Liaw, Ta-Shih, Cheng-Kung, Pu-Tai, Tung-Kang, Nan-Wan as shown in Fig.1 and Shiau Liu- Chieu totally 8 stations. Then use the Gumbel Distribution TYPE 1 to predict the extreme wave height of each returned period.In the design and construction of waterfront bulkhead systems, it is essential to consider the coastal effects of tides, waves, boat wakes, currents, bottom sediment movement and bottom scour. Many improperly designed bulkhead systems experience severe loss of backfill and toe materials with the bulkhead eventually failing if it is not corrected in time. Inadequate drainage, joint connections, and/or inadequate toe protection are typically the causes of failure. This paper describes an investigation of a bulkhead system supporting a large waterfront development in southern California which was experiencing widespread sinkhole development in the bulkheads backfill and was on the verge of losing toe material. The objective of this investigation was to determine the extent and cause of ongoing subsurface erosion, to evaluate its effect on the bulkhead stability, and to recommend and design mitigative measures. The cause of the erosion was determined to be piping of fine grained soils due to inadequate backfill drainage. A remedial drainage scheme was designed and field-tested, and several structural repair schemes were suggested for portions of the bulkhead where accumulated damage affected the integrity of the structure.

RUN-UP OF RANDOM WAVES ON GENTLE SLOPES

This report will update the coastal zone practitioner on the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) as it affects the implementation of manmade changes along the coastline. It is our intent to place in proper perspective this fast-changing and often difficult to interpret national program. Readers will achieve an overall understanding of the NFIP on the coast, and will be in a position to apply the programs requirements in their efforts. We will begin with a history of the application of the NFIP to the coastal zone. The history of the problems encountered will lead into current regulations, methodologies, and the changes the Federal Emergency Management Agency plans for the future.The spatial variability of the nearshore wave field is examined in terms of the coherence functions found between five closely spaced wave gages moored off the North Carolina coast in 17 meters depth. Coherence was found to rapidly decrease as the separation distance increased, particularly in the along-crest direction. This effect is expressed as nondimensional coherence contours which can be used to provide an estimate of the wave coherence expected between two spatial positions.Prediction of depositional patterns in estuaries is one of the primary concerns to coastal engineers planning major hydraulic works. For a well-mixed estuary where suspended load is the dominant transport mode, we propose to use the divergence of the distribution of the net suspended load to predict the depositional patterns. The method is applied to Hangzhou Bay, and the results agree well qualitatively with measured results while quantitatively they are also of the right order of magnitude.

HYPERBOLIC WAVES AND THEIR SHOALING

The distribution of bed-load sand transport normal to the beach has been measured m a series of field experiments conducted in the surf zone at Fernandma Beach, Florida. Simultaneous measurements were made of the waves and water particle motion at various locations in the surf zone. The energy flux of the waves was resolved Into Its longshore component from the measured directional and energy spectra. It Is found that the bed-load transport is related to the depth of water and longshore energy flux. Insight into the mechanics of sediment transport is obtained by comparing the wave and water particle motion energy spectra, which give a direct measure of the kinetic and potential energy, at various locations in the surf zone. INTRODUCTION A meaningful field investigation of the sand transport processes m the surf zone requires the synoptic measurement of a number of hydrodynamic and sediment variables. Fairly complete and extensive data are required to evaluate the validity of various proposed sand transport relationships and the formulations of new relationships where necessary. This paper describes field experiments conducted m the surf zone at Fernandma Beach, located on the northeastern coast of Florida. The emphasis of this study was to obtain information concerning the distribution of bedload transport perpendicular to shore and the physical processes causing such movement. Sediment transport m the surf zone can be considered as being caused by a combination of shear stresses due to wave and current action. An attempt to correlate sediment transport with physical parameters then must include good wave and current measurements. The experiments were conducted from October, 1966 to May, 1967, a period that encompasses the more intense wave activity along this coast. The beach and nearshore bottom profile is typically a one or two bar system with a gentle slope of two to three per cent. The sand has a mean grain size of approximately 0.2 millimeters. The mean tidal range is 1.7 meters.A summary is given of the results of training sixteen rivers in an endeavour to increase bar depths for navigation. The bars are of simple crescent formation fed by littoral drift. Whilst the training works have improved conditions for navigation they have not resulted in any appreciable increase in bar depths. Despite the complex mechanisms involved in bar formation a consistent simple correlation is found to exist between channel and bar depths. This correlation seems to apply to all rivers and inlets with simple bar systems and extends over a range from a bar depth of two feet to 60 feet. The correlation holds for rivers elsewhere and-- with varying climates of exposure.

Relationship Between Vertical Distribution of Water Particle Velocity and Type of Breakers on Beaches

ABSTRACTIn order to clarify the water particle velocity field of breaking waves on beaches, experiments were carried out for three kinds of beach slopes (1/10, 1/20 and 1/30). Neutrally buoyant particles were used as tracers to measure the velocities with a 16 mm high speed cinecamera. Since photographs of the wave profile near breaking were also taken in the same films, the change of the wave profile near breaking was also examined. It was found that vertical distributions of horizontal water particle velocities at the crest and trough phases of breaking waves on beaches cannot be explained by the finite amplitude wave theories for uniform depth. Then, they were discussed in comparison with the breaker types. As a result, it was shown that the dimensionless vertical distribution of horizontal water particle velocity at the crest phase of breaking waves is determined by the combination of the beach slope and the deep-water wave steepness.

HORIZONTAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES

The wave-induced longshore current variation across the surf zone is described for a simplified model The basic assumptions are that the conditions are steady, the bottom contours are straight and parallel but allow for an arbitrary bottom profile, the waves are adequately described by linear theory, and that spilling breakers exist across the surf zone Conservation equations of mass, momentum, and energy, separated into the steady and unsteady components, are used to describe second order-wave-induced phenomena of shoaling waves approaching at an angle to the beach An expression for the longshore current is developed, based on the alongshore component of excess momentum flux due to the presence of unsteady wave motion Wave set-down and set-up have been included in the formulation Emphasis in the analysis is placed on formulating usable predictive equations for engineering practice Comparison with experimental results from the laboratory and field show that if the assumed conditions are approximately fulfilled, the predicted results compare quite favorably

WAVE GROUP ANALYSIS OF NATURAL WIND WAVES BASED ON MODULATIONAL INSTABILITY THEORY

Abstract This paper discusses wave grouping of wind waves observed at Lake Biwa from the physical viewpoint of wave modulational instability. Amplitude modulation periods obtained from the smoothed instantaneous wave energy history (SIWEH) of the observed data proposed by Funke and Mansard are compared with the values predicted by the modulational instability theory using the Zakharov equation for a finite constant water depth derived by Stiassnie and Shemer. The modulation period normalized by the typical wave period corresponds to the length of total run. It is shown that the amplitude modulation periods of the observed data agree satisfactorily with the predicted values. Thus, it is concluded that the modulational instability is a hydrodynamical cause of grouping of high waves.

SHOALING OF FINITE AMPLITUDE LONG WAVES ON A BEACH OF CONSTANT SLOPE

The data for the spectra of wind-generated waves measured in a laboratory tank and in a bay are analyzed using the similarity theory of Kitaigorodski, and the one-dimensional spectra of fetch-limited wind waves are determined from the data. The combined field and laboratory data cover such a wide range of dimensionless fetch F (= gF/u ) as F : 10 ~ 10 . The fetch relations for the growthes of spectral peak frequency u)m and of total energy E of the spectrum are derived from the proposed spectra, which are consistent with those derived directly from the measured spectra.A solution of finite amplitude long waves on constant sloping beaches is obtained by solving the equations of the shallow water theory of the lowest order. Non-linearity of this theory is taken into account, using the perturbation method. Bessel functions involved in the solution are approximated with trigonometric functions. The applicable range of this theory is determined from the two limit conditions caused by the hydrostatic pressure assumption and the trigonometric function approximation of Bessel functions. The shoaling of this finite amplitude long waves on constant sloping beaches is discussed. Especially, the effects of the beach slope on the wave height change and the asymmetric wave profile near the breaking point are examined, which can not be explained by the concept of constancy of wave energy flux based on the theory of progressive waves in uniform depth. These theoretical results are presented graphically, and compared with curves of wave shoaling based on finite amplitude wave theories. On the other hand, the experiments are conducted with respect to the transformation of waves progressing on beaches of three kinds of slopes ( 1/30, 1/2.0 and 1/10 ) . The experimental results are compared with the theoretical curves to confirm the validity of the theory.Measurements of drift were made in a wind and wave facility at different elevations below the mean water level. The drift profiles were obtained for reference wind speeds, Ur = 3.1, 5.7 and 9.6 m/sec. The measurement technique involved tracing the movement of small paper discs which were soaked in water to become neutrally buoyant at the elevation of release. A logarithmic drift profile is proposed. The water shear velocity, U*w, predicts a surface stress, TS = pw U*S, in agreement with that obtained from the wind shear velocity, s = Pa U*li where pa and pw refer to air and water densities, respectively.The paper describes a procedure for obtaining field data on the mean concentration of sediments in combination of waves and currents outside the breaker zone, as well as some results of such measurements. It is assumed that the current turbulence alone is responsible for the maintenance of the concentration profile above a thin layer close to the bottom, in which pick-up of sediments due to wave agitation takes place. This assumption gives a good agreement between field data and calculated concentration profiles.A section of beach on the south coast of England has been under surveillance for five years, from March 1966 until March 1971. During this period, two permeable groynes of the Makepeace Wood type were constructed. Beach cross sectional areas and rates of accretion were compared before and after groyne construction. The groynes caused a buildup in beach levels updrift.The results of model tests, carried out to evaluate the stability of submarine slopes under wave action are presented. A Bentonite clay was sedimented in a glass walled tank 6 feet long by 0.5 feet wide by 2.5 feet deep. The sedimentation and consolidation processes were studied and sediment densities were measured at various depths in the profile. Vane shear strength profiles were also measured afvarious average degrees of consolidation. Plastic markers were placed in the sediment adjacent to a glass wall so that the soil movements under both gravity and wave induced slides could be documented by photography. Dimensional similitude is discussed and the model test data are presented in a dimensionless form. All instabilities were observed to be of the infinite slope type. Analysis of the data shows that wave action is instrumental in initiating downslope mass movements in gently to steeply sloping off-shore sediments. General lack of agreement between the model test results and published theoretical analyses was found but there was close similarity in the depths and form of failure under wave action and under gravity stresses alone. The loss of stability under wave action is analyzed on the concept that failure is gravity controlled and the soil strength is reduced to a value commensurate with gravity sliding by the cyclic shearing stresses imposed by progressive waves. A method of evaluating the stability of prototype slopes using a model test correlation and field vane strength measurements is proposed. INTRODUCTION Instabilities in submarine slopes have been observed or have been inferred over a wide range of slope angles from less than half a degree up to about 30°. These subaqueous landslides are believed to have caused rupture of submarine cables and to have generated many of the geomorphological features on the ocean bottom. There are numerous records describing these landslides but very few publications discuss the application of the principles of soil mechanics to the analysis of the stability of submarine slopes. Associate Professor of Civil Engineering, Queens University at Kingston, Canada 2 Soils Engineer, Geocon Ltd., Toronto, Canada 3 Associate Professor of Civil Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, N.Y.Several mathematical models have been lately presented which describe the tidal wave propagation within an estuary. The existing models derived from the method for damped co-oscillating tides are based on sinusoidal wave profile. Meanwhile a tidal wave which moves upstream, generally exhibits a progressive deformation which tends to unbalance the length of time between flood and ebb tides. The actual profile is therefore no longer sinusoidal. Our investigation uses the potential method, and takes into account the wave amplitude which is usually neglected compared with the water depth. Finally, the velocity potential is obtained explicitely, using a double iterative method. Tidal elevation, particle velocities and trajectories are given by the same computer programmed algorithm. Our study shows that l) the phenomenon can be clearly visualized on the theoretical curves and 2) the magnitude of this deformation is inversely proportional to the water depth, becoming significant when the ratio f|/h reaches the critical value of 1/10. Damping and geometrical effects are also considered and the theory was applied to the St.Lawrence Estuary. A partial positive reflection of the incoming tidal wave is assumed at the narrow section near Quebec, whereas a complete negative reflection is assumed at the entrance to Lake St.Peter. The calculated and observed wave profiles, velocity distributions, and phase shifts are in good agreement.A numerical model is presented to describe the hydromechanics of lagoons connected to the ocean by relatively narrow inlets. Because special attention is given to the flushing, all second order terms in the hydrodynamic equations are retained. The study is restricted to lagoons with a onedimensional flow pattern and water of uniform density. In designing a numerical solution to the equations, the inlet equations are regarded as implicit boundary conditions to the equations describing the flow in the lagoon proper. The advantages of this approach are: (1) the size of the computational grid in the lagoon can be chosen independently of the relatively small dimensions of the inlets and (2) the flow at branching inlets (an inlet connecting a lagoon to the ocean such that branching of the inlet flow can occur) still can be described by a one-dimensional tidal model. The predictive capability of the numerical model is confirmed by favorable comparison between measured and computed particle paths and net transport for a series of laboratory experiments. In the experiments a canal of uniform width and depth is freely connected to a tidal basin at one end and at the other end is connected to the same basin by a submerged weir.

ESTIMATION OF WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF BREAKING WAVE

The equations describing conservation of mass, momentum and energy in a turbulent free surface flow are derived for a controle volume extending over the whole depth. The effect of the turbulent surface oscillations are discussed but neglected in the following analysis, where the equations are applied to the energy balance in a surf zone wave motion. This leads to results for the wave height variation and the velocity of propagation. The results cannot be reconciled completely with measurements and the concluding discussion is aimed at revealing how the model can be improved.A three-dimensional morphodynamic model of sequential beach changes Is presented. The model Is based on variations in breaker wave power generating a predictable sequence of beach conditions. The spectrum of beach conditions from fully eroded-dissipatlve to fully accreted reflective is characterised by ten beach-stages. Using the breaker wave power to beach-stage relationship the model Is applied to explain temporal, spatial and global variations In beach morphodynamlcs.The agents of initial damage to the dunes are water, which undermines them, and animals (including man) which damage the protective vegetation by grazing or trampling. Of these, man has recently assumed predominant local importance because of the popularity of sea-side holidays and of the land-falls of certain marine engineering works such as oil and gas pipelines and sewage outfalls. The need is therefore increasing for active dune management programmes to ensure that under these accentuated pressures, the coast retain an equilibrium comparable with that delicately balanced equilibrium which obtains naturally at a particular location.

BOTTOM TURBULENT BOUNDARY LAYER IN WAVE-CURRENT CO-EXISTING SYSTEMS

This report will update the coastal zone practitioner on the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) as it affects the implementation of manmade changes along the coastline. It is our intent to place in proper perspective this fast-changing and often difficult to interpret national program. Readers will achieve an overall understanding of the NFIP on the coast, and will be in a position to apply the programs requirements in their efforts. We will begin with a history of the application of the NFIP to the coastal zone. The history of the problems encountered will lead into current regulations, methodologies, and the changes the Federal Emergency Management Agency plans for the future.The spatial variability of the nearshore wave field is examined in terms of the coherence functions found between five closely spaced wave gages moored off the North Carolina coast in 17 meters depth. Coherence was found to rapidly decrease as the separation distance increased, particularly in the along-crest direction. This effect is expressed as nondimensional coherence contours which can be used to provide an estimate of the wave coherence expected between two spatial positions.Prediction of depositional patterns in estuaries is one of the primary concerns to coastal engineers planning major hydraulic works. For a well-mixed estuary where suspended load is the dominant transport mode, we propose to use the divergence of the distribution of the net suspended load to predict the depositional patterns. The method is applied to Hangzhou Bay, and the results agree well qualitatively with measured results while quantitatively they are also of the right order of magnitude.

RANDOM WAVE SIMULATION IN A LABORATORY WAVE TANK

A significant portion of the damage by hurricanes is the storm surges. The National Weather Service has developed a dynamical-numerical model to forecast hurricane storm surges. The model is used operationally for prediction, warning, and planning purposes. The model requires fixed oceanographic and real time meteorological input data. The oceanographic data were prepared for the Gulf and East coasts of the U.S. and are stored as an essential part of the program. Meteorological data for any tropical storm are supplied by the forecasters or planners using the model. The model was applied to hurricane Camille 1969. Comparison between the observed and computed surges for Camille was satisfactory for prediction purposes.The main consideration in harbor master planning is to maximize the amount of time that the harbor can be used. The potential level of harbor utilization can be evaluated by analyzing vessel performance during harbor operations in terms of the range of imposed environmental conditions. The harbor utilization level is expressed statistically as the probable amount of time that the harbor can be used as planned.The design and construction of a major ocean outfall and diffuser system for disposal of wastewater effluents is a complex process involving an interplay of requirements originating from various disciplines. These include, among others, considerations of physical oceanography, mixing and dispersion, treatment processes, regulatory requirements, marine geology, economics and construction. The recently completed Sand Island Outfall and the newly designed Barbers Point Outfall are both on the southern coast of the island of Oahu, Hawaii, and are designed for treated sewage effluents from the densely populated portion of the City and County of Honolulu. In this paper, some design considerations of these outfalls will be examined. The emphasis in this paper is on the hydrodynamics, although other design aspects are also discussed briefly.The height of dikes and other coastal structures can only be calculated after determination of the wave run-up. Several formulas for the calculation of wave run-up are developed after model tests as a rule. But the influences of scale effects and natural wind conditions are practically unknown. To clear these questions further investigations and especially field measurements should be carried out. By measuring the markerline of floating trash on the slope of the seadikes the maximum wave run-up could be found out after four storm surges in 1967 and 1973In two graphs it will be shown that on the tidal flats the run-up depends on the waterdepth. The run-up was higher than it could be expected after model tests of 1954. With a newly developed special echo sounder the run-up could be measured in January 1976. The waves and the run-up could be registrated synchronously during two severe storm surges. As shown in Fig. 9 it was found a logarithmic distribution of the wave height, wave period and the higher part of the wave run-up. The found wave run-up is considerably higher than estimated before. The measured 98 % run-up is found about twice the computed value. That is an interesting and important result of the first synchronous recording of wave run-up on sea dikes.In March 1972 the authors firm in association with two Portuguese firms of consulting engineers, Consulmar and Lusotecna, were appointed by the Portuguese Government agency Gabinete da Area de Sines to prepare designs for the construction of a new harbour at Sines on the west coast of Portugal. The location is shown in Figure 1. The main breakwater, which is the subject of this paper, is probably the largest breakwater yet built, being 2 km long and in depths of water of up to 50 m. It is exposed to the North Atlantic and has been designed for a significant wave height of 11 m. Dolos units invented by Merrifield (ref. 1) form the main armour. The project programme required that studies be first made of a wide range of alternative layouts for the harbour. After the client had decided on the layout to be adopted, documents were to be prepared to enable tenders for construction to be invited in January 1973. This allowed little time for the design to be developed and only one series of flume tests, using regular waves, was completed during this period. Further tests in the regular flume were completed during the tender period and a thorough programme of testing with irregular waves was commenced later in the year, continuing until August 1974 when the root of the breakwater was complete and the construction of the main cross-section was about to start. The model tests, which were carried out at the Laboratorio Nacional de Engenharia Civil in Lisbon, were reported by Morals in a paper presented to the 14th International Coastal Engineering Conference in 1974. (ref. 2)Estuaries may be sequentially classified into highly stratified, moderately mixed and vertically homogeneous. An important difference between moderately stratified or vertically homogeneous estuaries, and highly stratified estuaries (salt wedges) is that, in the former, tidal currents are sufficient to cause turbulent mixing of fresh water and sea water over the full depth of the estuary. In the latter, a distinct interface or interfacial layer exists which separates the two nearly homogeneous layers. The vertical advectlon of salt in this two-layer flow is the dominant process in maintaining the salt balance. This paper presents an analytical model describing this process. Experiments have been conducted in the laboratory to compare with the developed theory.