Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties

O cabelo e uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteina composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura fisica. Caracteristicas fisicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliacao de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por metodos diversos, como: microscopia optica e eletronica, mensuracao da resistencia mecânica, determinacao do brilho e tomografia por coerencia optica (OCT).

Estabilidade e estudo de penetração cutânea in vitro da rutina veiculada em uma emulsão cosmética através de um modelo de biomembrana alternativo

Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 oC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 oC, 5.0 ± 0.5 oC and 45.0 ± 0.5 oC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days.

Accelerated chemical stability data of O/W fluid emulsions containing the extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham

O desenvolvimento de formas farmaceuticas topicas necessita ensaios fisicos, fisico-quimicos e quimicos que selecionem rapidamente a formulacao de melhor desempenho de estabilidade. Este estudo avaliou a estabilidade de emulsoes O/A fluidas, por meio da determinacao de flavonoides totais, expressos em rutina, contendo o extrato padronizado de Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (e) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. As amostras foram armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 oC; 5,0 ± 0,5 oC e 40,0 ± 0,5 oC durante 90 dias e foram avaliadas segundo o protocolo para a determinacao da estabilidade acelerada, conhecida como Teste de Estabilidade Normal. A quantificacao da substância ativa foi determinada por espectrofotometria na regiao do ultravioleta a 361,0 nm, previamente validado. Apos os ensaios de estabilidade, as emulsoes O/A fluidas apresentaram estabilidade adequada, pelo menos, no periodo de 90 dias, quando armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 oC e 5,0 ± 0,5 oC. A condicao de armazenamento a 40,0 ± 0,5 oC acelerou a cinetica de degradacao dos flavonoides totais, expressos em rutina, portanto, preparacoes possuindo esta categoria de substância ativa natural ou formulacoes similares nao devem ser armazenadas em temperaturas elevadas.

Efficacy of Punica granatum L. hydroalcoholic extract on properties of dyed hair exposed to UVA radiation.

The solar radiation promotes color fading of natural and dyed hair by free radical generation, which oxidize the pigments, and it has been proposed the incorporation of antioxidants in order to reduce the alterations of hair color. Due to its high content of polyphenols and tannins, which are potent antioxidants, the hydroalcoholic extract of Punica granatum L. (pomegranate) was used in this research. Hair care formulations containing pomegranate extract were applied to red dyed hair tresses, and these were exposed to UVA radiation. Non-ionic silicone emulsion presenting color protection properties were also used for comparison purpose between the results obtained with different treatments, including silicone in combination with the pomegranate extract. The pomegranate extract at 5.0% and 10.0%w/w was effective in preventing the hair color fading in 37.6% and 60.8%, respectively, but the association of hydroalcoholic extract and non-ionic silicone emulsion is not encouraged. Mechanical properties were not affected by UVA radiation, since significant differences in breaking strength were not observed. Considering the conditions which the tresses have been exposed, it was concluded that the pomegranate extract at 10.0% w/w in hair care formulations are effective in reducing color fading of red dyed hair.

Functional photostability and cutaneous compatibility of bioactive UVA sun care products

Sunscreens are the most-established approach for photoprotection. The strategy of providing antioxidant properties to sun care products by addition of natural and potent anti-free radical compounds has led to the development of bioactive sunscreens, able to neutralize the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVA filters, such as benzophenone-3 (BP) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), can exhibit photodegradation which limits the development of broad spectrum sunscreens. Previous research verified that rutin interacts with filters incorporated in sunscreens. In this work, we focused on the development and evaluation of the efficacy of the sunscreens containing either BP or BMDBM with and without rutin. The addition of rutin to the UVA filters afforded antioxidant properties to the formulations and they were considered safe for human use. Additionally, rutin in combination with either BP or BMDBM increased the antioxidant activity about 40 times when compared with the UVA filters alone. Remarkably, the addition of rutin 0.1% (w/w) to BP 6.0% (w/w) raised the SPF from 24.3±1.53 to 33.3±2.89. In conclusion, these findings demonstrated that the addition of rutin into sunscreens can markedly improve the antioxidant properties of the formulation as well as photostabilize some of the UVA filters.

Influence of Urea, Isopropanol, and Propylene Glycol on Rutin In Vitro Release from Cosmetic Semisolid Systems Estimated by Factorial Design

Rutin, one of the major flavonoids found in an assortment of plants, was reported to act as a sun protection factor booster with high anti-UVA defense, antioxidant, antiaging, and anticellulite, by improvement of the cutaneous microcirculation. This research work aimed at evaluating the rutin in vitro release from semisolid systems, in vertical diffusion cells, containing urea, isopropanol and propylene glycol, associated or not, according to the factorial design with two levels with center point. Urea (alone and in association with isopropanol and propylene glycol) and isopropanol (alone and in association with propylene glycol) influenced significant and negatively rutin liberation in diverse parameters: flux (μg/cm2.h); apparent permeability coefficient (cm/h); rutin amount released (μg/cm2); and liberation enhancement factor. In accordance with the results, the presence of propylene glycol 5.0% (wt/wt) presented statistically favorable to promote rutin release from this semisolid system with flux = 105.12 ± 8.59 μg/cm2.h; apparent permeability coefficient = 7.01 ± 0.572 cm/h; rutin amount released = 648.80 ± 53.01 μg/cm2; and liberation enhancement factor = 1.21 ± 0.07.

Evaluation of in vitro percutaneous enhancement effect of papain and pequi oil on diclofenac sodium permeation through human skin

The purpose of this research was to determine the potential of papain and pequi oil as penetration enhancers for diclofenac sodium (DS) across human skin in vitro. The permeation studies were conducted with vertical diffusion cells. The enhancers were associated or not in gels in different concentrations. In vitro studies reveled that papain 0.2% (w/v) presented an elevated enhancer property for diclofenac sodium (J = 0.3369 mg/cm2x h). Pequi oil 10% (w/v) generated a reduced flux value (J = 0.1848 mg/cm2x h) and a combination of both enhancers presented a medium value of J = 0.2187 mg/cm2x h. Papain was found to be better enhancer than pequi oil.

Stability evaluation of organic Lip Balm

O aumento da demanda global por produtos naturais, cuja producao nao envolva nenhum dano ao meio ambiente, tem estimulado o desenvolvimento de cosmeticos naturais e, dentro desta categoria, dos produtos orgânicos (que contem 95% de materias-primas orgânicas). O protetor labial e um produto cosmetico semelhante ao batom que tem a finalidade de prevenir o ressecamento dos labios, mantendo a hidratacao, e protege-los contra fatores ambientais adversos. Este trabalho envolveu o desenvolvimento de um protetor labial formulado com materias-primas orgânicas e avaliacao dos parâmetros de estabilidade, como ponto de fusao, caracteristicas organolepticas e funcionalidade (teste de espalhabilidade). A formulacao selecionada apos o Estudo de Estabilidade Preliminar foi submetida a Avaliacao Normal de Estabilidade, nas seguintes condicoes de armazenamento (temperatura): Ambiente (22,0 ± 3,0 oC), Estufa (40,0 ± 2,0 oC) e Geladeira (5,0 ± 1,0 oC), por 90 dias. Nas condicoes de armazenamento em geladeira ou ambiente, a espalhabilidade foi adequada, mas a superficie apresentou pontos esbranquicados, caracterizando o fenomeno chamado fat bloom, que esta relacionado a recristalizacao da manteiga de cacau. O armazenamento a temperatura elevada (40,0 ± 2,0 oC) provocou perda de funcionalidade, de acordo com o teste de espalhabilidade, e mudanca de cor, apesar do aspecto permanecer uniforme, visto que nao foi observado o fenomeno fat bloom. O odor manteve-se estavel em todas as condicoes, assim como o ponto de fusao, com valor medio de 72,9 oC ± 1,7 oC durante todo o periodo de avaliacao do teste de estabilidade (90 dias).

Theoretical study of tautomers and photoisomers of avobenzone by DFT methods

AbstractOrganic ultraviolet (UV) filters such as cinnamates, benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic derivatives, and avobenzone (which have well-established and recognized UV-filtering efficacies) are employed in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products to minimize the harm caused by exposure of the skin to sunlight. In this study, a detailed investigation of the photostability and tautomerism mechanisms of avobenzone was performed utilizing DFT methods. The UV spectral profile of avobenzone was also simulated, and the results showed good agreement with experimental data. Furthermore, the calculations were able to distinguish tautomers and photoisomers of the studied organic filter based on their properties, thus showing the potential to develop new organic UV filters. Graphical AbstractTheoretical studies of avobenzone and its tautomers by TD-DFT.

Physical and physicochemical stability evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0% w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 oC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0% w/w of PVA and 0.5% w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 oC).