Michelli Ferrera Dario

Efficacy of Punica granatum L. hydroalcoholic extract on properties of dyed hair exposed to UVA radiation.

The solar radiation promotes color fading of natural and dyed hair by free radical generation, which oxidize the pigments, and it has been proposed the incorporation of antioxidants in order to reduce the alterations of hair color. Due to its high content of polyphenols and tannins, which are potent antioxidants, the hydroalcoholic extract of Punica granatum L. (pomegranate) was used in this research. Hair care formulations containing pomegranate extract were applied to red dyed hair tresses, and these were exposed to UVA radiation. Non-ionic silicone emulsion presenting color protection properties were also used for comparison purpose between the results obtained with different treatments, including silicone in combination with the pomegranate extract. The pomegranate extract at 5.0% and 10.0%w/w was effective in preventing the hair color fading in 37.6% and 60.8%, respectively, but the association of hydroalcoholic extract and non-ionic silicone emulsion is not encouraged. Mechanical properties were not affected by UVA radiation, since significant differences in breaking strength were not observed. Considering the conditions which the tresses have been exposed, it was concluded that the pomegranate extract at 10.0% w/w in hair care formulations are effective in reducing color fading of red dyed hair.

Effects of solar radiation on hair and photoprotection

In this paper the negative effects of solar radiation (ultraviolet, visible and infrared wavelengths) on hair properties like color, mechanical properties, luster, protein content, surface roughness, among others, will be discussed. Despite knowing that radiation damages hair, there are no consensus about the particular effect of each segment of solar radiation on the hair shaft. The hair photoprotection products are primarily targeted to dyed hair, specially auburn pigments, and gray shades. They are usually based on silicones, antioxidants and quaternary chemical UV filters that have more affinity for negatively charged hair surface and present higher efficacy. Unfortunately, there are no regulated parameters, like for skin photoprotection, for efficacy evaluation of hair care products, which makes impossible to compare the results published in the literature. Thus, it is important that researchers make an effort to apply experimental conditions similar to a real level of sun exposure, like dose, irradiance, time, temperature and relative humidity.

Stability evaluation of organic Lip Balm

O aumento da demanda global por produtos naturais, cuja producao nao envolva nenhum dano ao meio ambiente, tem estimulado o desenvolvimento de cosmeticos naturais e, dentro desta categoria, dos produtos orgânicos (que contem 95% de materias-primas orgânicas). O protetor labial e um produto cosmetico semelhante ao batom que tem a finalidade de prevenir o ressecamento dos labios, mantendo a hidratacao, e protege-los contra fatores ambientais adversos. Este trabalho envolveu o desenvolvimento de um protetor labial formulado com materias-primas orgânicas e avaliacao dos parâmetros de estabilidade, como ponto de fusao, caracteristicas organolepticas e funcionalidade (teste de espalhabilidade). A formulacao selecionada apos o Estudo de Estabilidade Preliminar foi submetida a Avaliacao Normal de Estabilidade, nas seguintes condicoes de armazenamento (temperatura): Ambiente (22,0 ± 3,0 oC), Estufa (40,0 ± 2,0 oC) e Geladeira (5,0 ± 1,0 oC), por 90 dias. Nas condicoes de armazenamento em geladeira ou ambiente, a espalhabilidade foi adequada, mas a superficie apresentou pontos esbranquicados, caracterizando o fenomeno chamado fat bloom, que esta relacionado a recristalizacao da manteiga de cacau. O armazenamento a temperatura elevada (40,0 ± 2,0 oC) provocou perda de funcionalidade, de acordo com o teste de espalhabilidade, e mudanca de cor, apesar do aspecto permanecer uniforme, visto que nao foi observado o fenomeno fat bloom. O odor manteve-se estavel em todas as condicoes, assim como o ponto de fusao, com valor medio de 72,9 oC ± 1,7 oC durante todo o periodo de avaliacao do teste de estabilidade (90 dias).

Safety and efficacy evaluation of gelatin-based nanoparticles associated with UV filters.

The safety and efficacy assessment of nanomaterials is a major concern of industry and academia. These materials, due to their nanoscale size, can have chemical, physical, and biological properties that differ from those of their larger counterparts. The encapsulation of natural ingredients can provide marked improvements in sun protection efficacy. This strategy promotes solubility enhancement of flavonoids and yields an improved active ingredient with innovative physical, physicochemical and functional characteristics. Rutin, a flavonoid, has chemical and functional stability in topical vehicles exerting a synergistic effect in association with ultraviolet (UV) filters. However, the solubility of rutin is a limiting factor. Additionally, this bioactive compound does not have tendency to permeate across the stratum corneum. As an alternative to common synthetic based sunscreens, rutin-entrapped gelatin nanoparticles were designed. The present study investigated the pre-clinical safety of gelatin nanoparticles (GNPs) using an in vitro method and also assessed the clinical safety and efficacy of the association of GNPs with three commonly used chemical UV filters (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and methoxydibenzoylmethane). The non-irritant and adequate safety profile under sun-exposed skin conditions of the nanomaterials and the emulsions qualified the products for clinical efficacy assays. The in vivo results indicated that the GNPs increased the antioxidant protection of the emulsions developed. However, the presence of rutin in the nanosized material did not enhance performance on the SPF test. In conclusion, these findings characterized the nanomaterials as an innovative platform for multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Protein loss in human hair from combination straightening and coloring treatments

Hair chemical treatments, such as dyeing and straightening products, are known to cause damage that can be assessed by protein loss.

Tryptophan and kynurenine determination in human hair by liquid chromatography

Tryptophan, an amino acid found in hair proteinaceous structure is used as a marker of hair photodegradation. Also, protein loss caused by several chemical/physical treatments can be inferred by tryptophan quantification. Kynurenine is a photo-oxidation product of tryptophan, expected to be detected when hair is exposed mainly to UVB (290-320nm) radiation range. Tryptophan from hair is usually quantified directly as a solid or after alkaline hydrolysis, spectrofluorimetrically. However, these types of measure are not sufficiently specific and present several interfering substances. Thus, this work aimed to propose a quantification method for both tryptophan and kynurenine in hair samples, after alkali hydrolysis process, by using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with fluorimetric and UV detection. The tryptophan and kynurenine quantification method was developed and validated. Black, white, bleached and dyed (blond and auburn) hair tresses were used in this study. Tryptophan and kynurenine were separated within ∼9min by HPLC. Both black and white virgin hair samples presented similar concentrations of tryptophan, while bleaching caused a reduction in the tryptophan content as well as dyeing process. Unexpectedly, UV/vis radiation did not promote significantly the conversion of tryptophan into its photo-oxidation product and consequently, kynurenine was not detected. Thus, this works presented an acceptable method for quantification of tryptophan and its photooxidation metabolite kynurenine in hair samples. Also, the results indicated that bleaching and dyeing processes promoted protein/amino acids loss but tryptophan is not extensively degraded in human hair by solar radiation.

Short‐term clinical of peel‐off facial mask moisturizers

This study aimed to compare the efficacy of a peel‐off facial mask based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) with an oil‐in‐water (o/w) emulsion and the effect of a soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animale incorporated in those formulations (5% w/w).

Influence of Brazilian vegetable oils on mechanical resistence of hair fiber: Influência de óleos vegetais brasileiros na resistência mecânica da fibra capilar

Associating the global trend of incorporating active compounds and plants in cosmetic formulations and the vast Brazilian biodiversity, the present work aimed to study the incorporation of Brazilian vegetable oils in hair conditioner formulations, evaluating the mechanical resistance of hair fibers. The following oils were incorporated into base formulations at 5.0 % (w/w): babassu, buriti, andiroba and pequi. The formulations were applied to samples of Caucasian hair, followed by several washing steps, then the evaluation of mechanical strength. It was found that there was no statistically significant difference in mechanical resistance between samples treated with oils and the control between the first and seventh wash cycles. This fact can be explained by the possible low penetration of oils into the cortex, a region responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair fiber, since the grease composition disfavors its diffusion. The common effects of vegetable oils on the cuticle, such as filling in cracks or cavities, lubrication, and increased protein hydrophobicity cannot be excluded. The oils tested in this work were not able to raise or protect hair tresses. However, additional studies are required in order to establish the effects of oil treatments, particularly in damaged hair.