Vivian Zague

Oral Supplementation of Specific Collagen Peptides Has Beneficial Effects on Human Skin Physiology: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study

Various dietary supplements are claimed to have cutaneous anti-aging properties; however, there are a limited number of research studies supporting these claims. The objective of this research was to study the effectiveness of collagen hydrolysate (CH) composed of specific collagen peptides on skin biophysical parameters related to cutaneous aging. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 69 women aged 35-55 years were randomized to receive 2.5 g or 5.0 g of CH or placebo once daily for 8 weeks, with 23 subjects being allocated to each treatment group. Skin elasticity, skin moisture, transepidermal water loss and skin roughness were objectively measured before the first oral product application (t0) and after 4 (t1) and 8 weeks (t2) of regular intake. Skin elasticity (primary interest) was also assessed at follow-up 4 weeks after the last intake of CH (t3, 4-week regression phase). At the end of the study, skin elasticity in both CH dosage groups showed a statistically significant improvement in comparison to placebo. After 4 weeks of follow-up treatment, a statistically significantly higher skin elasticity level was determined in elderly women. With regard to skin moisture and skin evaporation, a positive influence of CH treatment could be observed in a subgroup analysis, but data failed to reach a level of statistical significance. No side effects were noted throughout the study.

Collagen Hydrolysate Intake Increases Skin Collagen Expression and Suppresses Matrix Metalloproteinase 2 Activity

The effect of daily ingestion of collagen hydrolysate (CH) on skin extracellular matrix proteins was investigated. Four-week-old male Wistar rats were fed a modified AIN-93 diet containing 12% casein as the reference group or CH as the treatment group. A control group was established in which animals were fed a non-protein-modified AIN-93 diet. The diets were administered continuously for 4 weeks when six fresh skin samples from each group were assembled and subjected to extraction of protein. Type I and IV collagens were studied by immunoblot, and activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) 2 and 9 were assessed by zymography. The relative amount of type I and IV collagens was significantly (P < .05) increased after CH intake compared with the reference diet group (casein). Moreover, CH uptake significantly decreased both proenzyme and active forms of MMP2 compared with casein and control groups (P < .05). In contrast, CH ingestion did not influence on MMP9 activity. These results suggest that CH may reduce aging-related changes of the extracellular matrix by stimulating anabolic processes in skin tissue.

Estabilidade e estudo de penetração cutânea in vitro da rutina veiculada em uma emulsão cosmética através de um modelo de biomembrana alternativo

Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 oC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 oC, 5.0 ± 0.5 oC and 45.0 ± 0.5 oC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days.

Accelerated chemical stability data of O/W fluid emulsions containing the extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham

O desenvolvimento de formas farmaceuticas topicas necessita ensaios fisicos, fisico-quimicos e quimicos que selecionem rapidamente a formulacao de melhor desempenho de estabilidade. Este estudo avaliou a estabilidade de emulsoes O/A fluidas, por meio da determinacao de flavonoides totais, expressos em rutina, contendo o extrato padronizado de Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (e) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. As amostras foram armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 oC; 5,0 ± 0,5 oC e 40,0 ± 0,5 oC durante 90 dias e foram avaliadas segundo o protocolo para a determinacao da estabilidade acelerada, conhecida como Teste de Estabilidade Normal. A quantificacao da substância ativa foi determinada por espectrofotometria na regiao do ultravioleta a 361,0 nm, previamente validado. Apos os ensaios de estabilidade, as emulsoes O/A fluidas apresentaram estabilidade adequada, pelo menos, no periodo de 90 dias, quando armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 oC e 5,0 ± 0,5 oC. A condicao de armazenamento a 40,0 ± 0,5 oC acelerou a cinetica de degradacao dos flavonoides totais, expressos em rutina, portanto, preparacoes possuindo esta categoria de substância ativa natural ou formulacoes similares nao devem ser armazenadas em temperaturas elevadas.

Dietary Supplementation with Specific Collagen Peptides Has a Body Mass Index-Dependent Beneficial Effect on Cellulite Morphology

Abstract In this double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, we investigated the efficacy of specific bioactive collagen peptides (BCP) on the cellulite treatment of normal and overweight women. In total, 105 women aged 24–50 years with moderate cellulite were randomized to orally receive a daily dosage of 2.5 g BCP or a placebo over 6 months. The degree of cellulite was evaluated before starting the treatment and after 3 and 6 months of intake. In addition, skin waviness, dermal density, and the length of subcutaneous borderline were assessed. BCP treatment led to a statistically significant decrease in the degree of cellulite and a reduced skin waviness on thighs (P < 0.05) in normal weight women. Moreover, dermal density was significantly improved (P < 0.05) compared to placebo. The subcutaneous borderline showed a significant shortening after BCP intake compared to the beginning of the study, indicating cellulite improvement, but the data failed to reach statistical significance compared to placebo. The efficacy of BCP treatment was also confirmed in overweight women, although the impact was less pronounced in comparison with women of normal body weight. The results of the study demonstrated that a regular ingestion of BCP over a period of 6 months led to a clear improvement of the skin appearance in women suffering from moderate cellulite. Based on the current data, it can be concluded that a long-term therapy with orally administered BCP leads to an improvement of cellulite and has a positive impact on skin health.

Collagen peptides modulate the metabolism of extracellular matrix by human dermal fibroblasts derived from sun-protected and sun-exposed body sites

Clinical data published in recent years have demonstrated positive effects of collagen hydrolysate (CH) on skin aging clinical signs. CH use as food supplement has a long history; however, few studies have addressed the underlying purpose of CH on the cellular and molecular biology of skin cells that could elucidate clinical improvement findings. Wide diversity of characteristics has been reported for dermal fibroblasts derived from different body sites and it is unknown whether collagen peptides could modulate differently cells from chronological aged and photoaged skin areas. This study investigated the influence of CH on the extracellular matrix metabolism and proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) derived from chronological aged (sun‐protected) and photoaged (sun‐exposed) body sites. CH treatment did not affect cellular proliferation of either cell cultures, but notably modulated cell metabolism in monolayer model, increasing the content of dermal matrix precursor and main protein, procollagen I and collagen I, respectively. These effects were confirmed in the human dermal equivalent model. The increase in collagen content in the cultures was attributed to stimulation of biosynthesis and decreased collagen I metabolism through inhibition of metalloproteinase activity (MMP) 1 and 2. Modulation of CH in dermal metabolism did not differ between cells derived from sun‐protected and sun‐exposed areas, although lower concentrations of CH seemed to be enough to stimulate sun‐exposed‐derived HDFs, suggesting more pronounced effect in these cells. This study contributes to understanding the biological effects of CH on skin cells and viability of its use as a functional ingredient in food supplements.

Oral supplementation with specific bioactive collagen peptides improves nail growth and reduces symptoms of brittle nails

Brittle nail syndrome is a common problem among women and refers to nails that exhibit surface roughness, raggedness, and peeling.

In Vitro Ultrasound Influence on Cutaneous Permeation of Hyaluronidase

In vitro skin permeation of hyaluronidase enzyme and the ultrasound (US) effects on cutaneous permeation of this enzyme were investigated. Diffusion cell technique, porcine skins, buffer solution, and a hydrophilic gel + hyaluronidase (100 TUR/g), were used for study. The experimental groups were: gel + enzyme and gel + enzyme + US. The activity of permeated hyaluronidase was determined by turbydimetric method in spectrophotometer at 400 nm. Gel + enzyme group permitted a diffusion of 26.89 ± 3.82 TUR of hyaluronidase in the total time of 240 minutes. However, the other group did not produce significant differences (p < 0.05) in the same period (13.68 ± 5.35 TUR). Hyaluronidase permeation through the skin was verified; however US did not cause increase of this enzyme permeation.