Elizabeth Bye

Analysis of Body Measurement Systems for Apparel

Many methods have been developed to measure the body in an effort to capture its dimensions for clothing. Measuring the human body has been important in developing garments tofit the body, and systems have reflected technology, needs of the consumer, andfocus of the apparel industry. The U. S. apparel industry has developed many techniques to measure the body, including custom-fitted to the individual, mass-sized and produced, and now, mass-customized. This paper reviews and evaluates historic and current methods of capturing body measurements, which are presented as linear methods, multiple probe methods, and body form methods, that use one or more of the following elements: point, length, surface, shape, and volume.

Sailing Apparel for Women: A Design Development Case Study:

A seven-step design process proposed by Watkins (1995) was used as a framework to guide the development of a one-piece female-specific sailing garment. An objective analysis of user needs uncovered through personal interviews and participant observation led to the development of design criteria based on the user need categories of functional, expressive, and aesthetic needs (Lamb & Kallal, 1992). The criteria were then translated into garment attributes and used in the development of a prototype garment. The prototype was wear-tested and revised. The final design combines functional, expressive, and aesthetic attributes to protect the body, maintain health and safety, and improve the wearers sailing efficiency as outlined by the design criteria.

Sizing up the Wardrobe—Why We Keep Clothes That Do Not Fit

Abstract A wardrobe is the sum of clothing, both worn and unworn, that women consider each day to construct their visual self. While there is little practical reason to keep clothes that are physically impossible to wear, there may be other connections that prevent their discard. This study investigated reasons for keeping clothes that do not fit the current body and womens feelings about these clothes. Responses from forty-six women, 35 to 65 years in age, were collected using a web-based questionnaire. The women were clients of image consultants and contacted because of their interest in clothing and appearance. Participants described up to four garments in their closets that no longer fit, the reasons they did not fit, and their reasons for keeping them. Open coding was used to examine the responses, and generated four themes for keeping clothing that do not fit: Weight Management, Investment Value, Sentimental Value, and Aesthetic Object. The results suggest a process for separating the self from the garment and the garment from the closet. This process occurs over a variable period, may not be linear, and may skip stages. A model for the separation process from garments that no longer fit is proposed.

Physical characteristics related to bra fit

Producing well-fitting garments has been a challenge for retailers and manufacturers since mass production began. Poorly fitted bras can cause discomfort or pain and result in lost sales for retailers. Because body contours are important factors affecting bra fit, this study analyses the relationship of physical characteristics to bra-fit problems. This study has used 3-D body-scanning technology to extract upper body angles from a sample of 103 college women; these data were used to categorise physical characteristics into shoulder slope, bust prominence, back curvature and acromion placement. Relationships between these physical categories and bra-fit problems were then analysed. Results show that significant main effects and two-way interactions of the physical categories exist in the fit problems of poor bra support and bra-motion restriction. The findings are valuable in helping the apparel industry create better-fitting bras. Statement of Relevance: Poorly fitted bras can cause discomfort or pain and result in lost sales for retailers. The findings regarding body-shape classification provide researchers with a statistics method to quantify physical characteristics and the findings regarding the relationship analysis between physical characteristics and bra fit offer bra companies valuable information about bra-fit perceptions attributable to women with figure variations.

Fit analysis using live and 3D scan models

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to develop a “good fit” for garments for customer satisfaction, comfort, and functionality as well as a manufacturers success and reputation.Design/methodology/approach – This paper reviews and evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or modification of the garment for production. As more manufacturing, product development, and designing responsibilities continue to take place globally, alternatives to the traditional fit analysis are under consideration.Findings – Fit analysis using live and three‐dimensional scan models as an alternative to the traditional fit analysis are under consideration.Originality/value – This paper evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or modification of the garment for production.

A Direction for Clothing and Textile Design Research

Clothing and textile design is a discipline of practice, scholarship, and research, sharing many characteristics and issues with the broader discipline of design. This manuscript briefly introduces some of the history and main concepts of the design discipline and design research; presents a framework for Design Scholarship to initiate a discussion about research, and suggests ways to contribute to the larger academic dialogue on forming a design discipline. The main thrust is to argue that a different context is needed for creative scholarship; one of design research that can add to the knowledge base and help build theory in the field. The tacit knowledge of hands-on experience is distinct, but cannot remain solely with the practitioner or the artifact. Clothing and textile design has a long tradition in creative practice, but due to the increasing complexity of our world, there is a need to formally capture the knowledge of the field.

Optimized pattern grading

Purpose – To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.Design/methodology/approach – Participants representing Misses sizes 6‐20 based on ASTM D 5585 were selected. The fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns was assessed. Garments were fit‐to‐shape on participants. Traditionally graded patterns were compared to fit‐to‐shape patterns using quantitative and qualitative visual analysis.Findings – Current apparel industry grading practices do not provide good fit for consumers. The greatest variation between the traditionally graded patterns and the fit‐to‐shape patterns occurred between sizes 14 and 16. For size 16 and up, neck and armscye circumferences were too large and bust dart intakes were too small.Research limitations/implications – This study was limited to a sheath dress in Misses sizes 6‐20. Future research should assess the fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns for other size ranges.Practi...

Predicting garment pattern dimensions from photographic and anthropometric data.

Traditional linear measurements (lengths and circumferences taken over the body surface with a tape measure) were compared with measurements of frontal and lateral view photographs for usefulness in determining pattern dimensions for the upper torso of the female body form. The statistical regression models developed indicated that, while linear measurements provided slightly more accuracy in predicting a few of the pattern dimensions, the photographic measurements were more accurate in predicting others, particularly pattern angles. Photographic measurements hold promise as an alternative to the more intrusive linear measurements for predicting pattern dimensions.

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

Garment development is an iterative process centred on patternmaking to resolve fit and production problems. Each time a sample garment is revised adds time and expense to garment development. Understanding the relationships among garment fit variables is essential to advancing the process of garment development especially with respect to programming computer-aided patternmaking systems accurately. Fit experts utilise their practical knowledge, but it is generally unrecorded, while patternmaking texts provide information on body-to-pattern variable relationships that is not well documented. Building patternmaking theory can ground the practice and lead to a better understanding of body-to-pattern relationships. This study compared published patternmaking specifications for ease, shaping devices and crotch curve shape against pants’ patterns custom-fit by experts for seven female participants of similar body size and age representing purposefully selected body shapes. In contrast to the singular directive specifications in the patternmaking texts, variation was required for all cases to achieve acceptable fit, with some variations related to body shape.

A Visual Sensory Evaluation of the Results of Two Pattern Grading Methods

Current apparel production methods grounded in a tradition of master-apprentice training and intuition are being challenged by the introduction of Artificial Intelligence. Much of the expert knowledge needed to develop computer systems for the apparel industry is related to visual decisions made to create a garment. In this study, a sensory evaluation methodology was used to determine if visual perceptual differences existed between results of pattern grading methods using traditional and proportional techniques. An expert panel of eleven members evaluated visual effect of images graded across an entire size range. Three sets of images representing apparel on the body were selected to emphasize (1) horizontal proportion, (2) vertical proportion, and (3) proportion of details. Responses of panel members indicated neither traditional nor proportional grading maintained the visual effect referenced in the sample size across the entire size range. The goal of pattern grading needs to be redefined to account for the desired visual effect in a variety of size and body variations.